Need some help, 3 Separate Issues! ( Photos )

[FirefighterJose]

Hey guys, I have a few different issues and questions so I'm going to group them into this thread to keep it all in one place.

Issue #1

Coolant Adapter broke, three times.

First time, I was driving and all the sudden I filled the hwy with white smoke.
Pulled over, Popped the hood and found this coolant adapter slipped off.

so, I just slipped it back on and filled it up with coolant.

Then a week later it did it again...
So, this time Around I removed the spring clip and replaced it with a band clamp.

Well, About another week and just a couple of hours ago I was on
the side of the road again.

This time it didn't slip off, the plastic adapter broke and cracked... Great.

This time it was 9pm, all the auto stores were closed and a local home depot was open for another hour.

So, family came and got me and I picked up some Galvanized steel 4" long so it wasn't pulling because it needed an extension.

I know that's not a permanent fix, ( Or is it? ) But it got me home and didn't leak and I knew I could tighten down the clamps and not break it...

So, What is the hose? It looks like it comes from the cabin, with a valve and then goes into the top of the engine. (Hvac?) Purpose of having that adapter/extension?

Whats the proper permanent fix for this issue.

Issue #2
Are all my fuel injectors suppose to look like they were cut and re-wired?
wtf?

Issue #3
Under load, Like going up a hill when in O/D it tries to downshift but instead it stutters... Like it has a major miss in a few cylinders but it's not that.
When I turn off O/D (o/D off light is on) it functions well and doesn't do it...

This isn't all the time either. it did it a few weeks back and just did it tonight.
This is only when I cruise and then start up a slight hill. Just enough gas that it almost wants to downshift, but doesn't. Of course with a little peddle I can make it downshift no problem. But i was trying to recreate this issue and sis.

 

[Mrooney322]

#1- unsure what the problem is there, ive got the v6 in my 3rd gen

#2- the injectors are not supposed to look like that, my best guess is the previous owner was running injectors with different connectors and cut the oem ones off and replaced them upon selling

#3- it sounds like the OD band in your transmission is loose, definitely something to get checked out, if it snaps your looking at a pretty penny to fix that.

 

[Number4]

1). Go to Ford and pick up the correct part, it should be $17.26 or less.

 

[Number4]

Second post due to picture loading issues.

If you want to continue with your current fix, then buy some Indian Head Shilac and coat the pipe ends where the hose is clamped on. This will help create a decent seal.

 

[Number4]

On the second issue, the butt connectors at a minimum, should have the ends dabbed in dialectric grease to keep moisture out and also sealed with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape.

 

[D Hook]

Door issue is usually a broken wire inside the door boot.

 

[FordFool2]

Issue 1: Maybe in the past the hose that connects to the top of the engine got flipped around. So where it used to be pushed onto a metal adapter is now connecting to the plastic adapter. The hose with the heat of the engine took a set. Now you are unable to squeeze it down much and it has lost it friction bite. Maybe the fix is a new ~90 degree turn hose and use the worm drive hose clamps.

 

[superhick440ci]

Hey there, i have some thoughts on your issues,
Issue 1, your cooling system problem looks like the wrong adapter theres no burrs on the plastic part to hold the hose in place so the cooling system pressure will certainly pop the hose off regardless of the clamp, your pipe fix is a good one these most likely threads that the pipe can hold on to. Of course the proper fix is with the proper part. I dont think there should be a problem with head gaskets from your description. Natural catalytic converter operation creates water from exhaust gases, some water vapour is normal its when its really thick and smells sweet i would suspect cracked head or head gasket.

Issue 2 injector harness, thats certainly a bad repair, completely open to weather. Best to cut the crimps out and solder the wires and use some quality weather tite heat shrink tube. Thats the next best think to an oem repair. If not the wires will corrode and give you trouble.

issue 3. Not too sure but in my experience i would check spark plug condition as well even if your not setting any diagnostic trouble codes.

issue 4, wiring in the drivers door jam would be good to check as well as connector pin tension. The fact it changes with temperature you may want to check that.

 

[fritz24]

Issue #3 something is wrong with your fuel supply. And it seems issue #2 has something to do with it. Perform fuel rail pressure test and do check the injectors