Need to replace rotars in '92 xlt, HELP?

[mnm681]

I recently got my '92 Explorer and need to change the front rotars, I did the pads and saw the rotars were real bad so i need to get it done, how do I get them off the hubs or should i just pay the $300 bucks I was quoted to get it done at a garage or isn't it that bad to do myself. I also need to change the automaticic 4-wheel drive hubs, they're bad too, I can't put it in 4-wheel, it only clicks, I heard I should put in manuals, but that's the next job, just need help with the rotars for now......

 

[Infragate]

Well, have you ever done wheel bearings before? Can you get your hands on tools like torque wrenches and special tools? This isn't rocket science but sometimes while ripping things apart you may find other damage that will hinder the job. And sounds to me like those auto Hubs are probably going to be a mess if they are clicking. The first thing i would do if i was you is pick up a Haynes manual for the ford explorer, available at most auto part stores, and then read the procedure to do this job. This will really help put things into perspective, and if you feel you can do this job, you may want to change those hubs to manual because auto hubs are not worth the trouble. Keep in mind that there is a new wheel bearing lock nut system that has to go along with the manual hubs too, all this info can be found on this site just do a search. But do start with the Haynes Manual first, it will help.

 

[DeRocha]

If you were closer I would have you come over and change out your rotors in no time...As Infragate wrote the job isn't hard it just requires a few special tools. As always the more tools you have the easier it is to complete a job when other issues creep into the picture... I would pickup a Haynes manual (under $15) it is pretty good. Check Explorer maint site in my sig line below. It has alot of good info on a variety of things.

4x4 not working.
Is the clicking noise coming from the Hubs or relays in the rear (Ie does the 4x4 indicator light up?) If the indicator doesn't go on then you most likely have a shift motor problem.

 

[Maniak]

It is pretty easy to do.. Here is a writeup on the ART rotors, but the instructions are the same for doing OEM rotor swap.

http://mark.legendz.com/explorer/art/art1.htm

~Mark

 

[97BlackX5.0]

its not so bad .... it would definately be a good time to put the new hubs on with the pads and rotors because you will have to take it apart again when you are ready to do the hubs.... heres a general expectation of what you can expect on a 1st gen or bronco II

Jack up car
Take off wheel.
take off brake caliper
auto hub should pull off exposing a greased up gunk of parts....
there will be a clip that you have to take off that holds the plastic part of the hub to the driveshaft... take off the clip and pull off the plastic part...
should be a needle bearing and a washer that comes off.... keep these in order if your going to replace.... you should be looking at a nut thats threaded onto a shaft with a keyway in it.... you have to get a magnet and pull out the locking "chip" thats in the keyway... undo the nut after you remove the keyway.... be careful as the front bearing will fall out after you do this and you dont want to get it dirty put this in a plastic baggy.... the rotor will come off the spindle easily now.... set it down on a clean rage and get a blunt piece of wood or something and stick it in through the hole where the front bearing came out and tap out the rear bearing and seal... discard the seal and keep the bearing in a baggie... repack the wheel bearings with fresh grease.... if you want you can clean the old grease off them with some diesel fuel ( i know im going to hear it for this) and press fresh grease in with your fingers or go buy a wheel bearing repacking tool... put the rear bearing in and tap a new seal in on the new rotor..... and basically everything goes back in reverse order....your new hubs will be new from that nut out... so its up to you if you put them back together with the old parts...when you go to tighten the nut back down that holds everything together... tighten it as much as you can by hand while spinning the rotor..... then i use a pair of channel lock pliers opened all the way up to torque it to spec... ( i forget the exact number but never have used a torque wrench) hope this helps.... if i got something wrong anybody feel free to correct me...

While this whole mess is apart reach around and see if you have any movement in your universal joint where it flexes.... if the joint is worn out it is an excellent time to do this as well as you only need take off like six more bolts and hammer the spindle off....do a search for ujoint replacement and you should find pics

 

[jgilbs]

its very easy to take off the rotor(be sure you get the special 2-3/8" socket for the spindle nut - its REQUIRED, not an option) be sure to use new pads with a new rotor - otherwise you will run into a multitude of problems(see my post "sound like a stuck caliper?")

 

[Rhett]

That 2 3/8" hex socket is hard to find. NAPA stores will sometimes carry it. It's also known as a "wheel bearing adjusting socket". AutoZone generally doesn't seem to.

 

[jgilbs]

i got mine at pep boys. it was like $12

 

[Ford_Racing_Guy]

i just used a channel-lock pliers to tighten the wheelnut on mine

 

[mnm681]

Thanks,but.....

It sounds to me like i better replace the auto hubs too, that's where the sound comes from, they lock in sometimes and then start clicking, so should I switch to manuals ?

 

[agzaretzka]

It sounds to me like i better replace the auto hubs too, that's where the sound comes from, they lock in sometimes and then start clicking, so should I switch to manuals ?

Try cleaning them first! remove all the grease and then soak in gear oil or ATF. I didn't find them too hard to disassemble completely and replace the little ball bearings in the end as well (a bit tricky getting to the little spring clips). Mine are working fine now!

 

[jgilbs]

yea, try to clean them out before you replace them. i know mine werent working, i took them off and there was LOADS of grease in there cuz i had a stuck caliper that liquified the grease and allowed it to flow into the hub. cleaned both out with about a gallon of paint thinner, and now theyre fine.(be sure to SOAK them in ATF for at least 2 hours after using solvents to clean them!)

 

[DeRocha]

It sounds to me like i better replace the auto hubs too, that's where the sound comes from, they lock in sometimes and then start clicking, so should I switch to manuals ?

As the others have suggested the autohubs should have very little grease in them. If you pack the hub in grease it will preload the spring at the end of the hub towards the disengaged position. This will cause the hub to cycle between lock and unlock depending upon axle load. I did exactly like jgilbs did and my authubs are working fine...

 

[Rhett]

When you take the hubs apart, check the condition of the plastic cam pieces. That is the part that commonly breaks. If they are worn or cracked or broken, it would be cheapest and best to replace the hubs with manuals.

If the plastic cam is ok, it might be just a case of too much grease in there.

 

[jgilbs]

also, heres a tip for when reinstalling everything(after all parts have been throughly cleaned with paintthinner and appropriate parts have been packed with grease) the cam is a PITA to reinstall. just go get yourself some 1 1/2" PVC pipe and a 5 lb sledge. when it comes time to install the cam, LINE UP THE KEYED SECTION OF THE CAM with the spindle, then place your PVC over the cam, give it a light tap with the sledge, and CLICK it will pop on with no damage. These things are damn near impossible to install without the PVC "tool".

 

[shauste]

Haynes Manual

Invest in a Haynes manual. That should explain everything you need.

 

[DeRocha]

Invest in a Haynes manual. That should explain everything you need.

A manual is a must have, but each one is lacking info in various areas. It is sites like Serious Explorations that connect you with people that have tackled your problem before and can help you out. It it nice when people search and find answers on their own, but somethime the volume of information is just to great and dispersed.

 

[Rhett]

I agree. For example, a Haynes manual for 91-99 Explorers does not say a thing about removing the ABS sensor when you're trying to pull the front passenger side driveshaft. The pictures it shows are from a 91-92 Explorer, model years which did not have the front ABS sensors! Not very useful for us 93+ guys.