New 2007 V8 owner with a couple questions

[DaytonGuy]

Recently purchased a 2007 Limited with the V8 and 4x4. I got it for a pretty good price but that's because it has a couple issues that seem to be common.

Transmission downshift clunk when stopping. Has anyone had any luck with the dealer installed software update for both control modules? If that doesn't work I assume I need to replace the solenoid pack in the transmission.

Exhaust leak sound on passenger side. For me this goes away after about 30 seconds. With the hood up it sounds like it is coming from the upper part of the engine near the intake on the firewall side. I can hear it from the wheel well near the firewall side but it's not as loud as when listening from under the hood. I've read it could be a broken manifold bolt or cracked manifold. Any other common causes to look for? How to I check the manifold bolts? I can see a few from the fender well but not all of them. Any pictures of this available?

Thanks for any help!

Chris

 

[Logangray02sport]

Would say solenoid vs reflash, I work at a ford dealership and seen the reflash work for maybe 1, but could have been a dream. You don't have a harsh reverse at times? Also would bet on exhaust manifold being cracked by the way that is a motor removal if it is a bolt broke off I did a police officers explorer for ohp and we had to remove the engine. I'm pretty sure you have to remove it partially to get it out too

 

[DaytonGuy]

Nothing noticeable in reverse that I have seen yet.

I was able to get a small stubby ratchet on the upper most rear manifold bolt and it was loose. I started to tighten it and it got tighter. I couldn't get much leverage with the ratchet or position I was in, but that is encouraging...I think.

What is the best way to get at that bolt? What is the torque setting? Should I tighten it when the truck is stone cold or do it when it is warm?

I'll check the others while I'm at it.

Any advice?

 

[Logangray02sport]

I would tighten cold and to hand tight and retest really you could go by the book to tighten but good luck getting torque wrench in there lol

 

[DaytonGuy]

Thanks...

BTW, can you point me in the right direction on the trans solenoid? What is the actual name of the part or part number? Want to do a little research on replacing it if I'm going to do that.

[Nevermind]...More research indicates that Ford has to do it and reprogram it upon install. I've seen upwards of $2,000 for that job. Does that sound right to anyone?

Thanks,

Chris

 

[DaytonGuy]

Quick Update....

So I was able to get another 1/4 turn on my loose exhaust manifold bolt. It was definitely quieter when I started it up and it "sealed" itself much quicker. I think I can take a portion of the inner fender trim off and get a few extensions on that bolt and get better leverage. I may even be able to put the torque wrench to it! It feels like another 1/4 turn or so may do it.

Anyone know the torque spec for these bolts?

 

[DaytonGuy]

Well...no luck on tightening the bolt. I torqued it down to 15 ft. lbs. and the leak is still there. I guess I'll swallow hard and take it to the shop tomorrow. Wander what this will cost??

 

[Tech By Trade]

Its not that big of a job to do on your own, on a f150 anyway. Do a search in the 4th gen explorer forums, there was a guy that did it in an afternoon. I had one break on my 4.0l, the studs came out easy with an easy out (same studs). I had a buddy that is a machinest plane the manifold for 40 bucks, a gasket and no more leaks.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=399621&highlight=exhaust+manifold

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=416927&highlight=exhaust+manifold

 

[DaytonGuy]

As I look through those pictures I have a question.....the top rear (firewall side) bolt on my manifold (he one that was loose that I could tighten up a bit) is actually a bolt. It is NOT a stud with a nut. Is that right? Maybe someone tried to "fix" it by screwing a bolt in there? I wander what kind of problems that will create when trying to fix it permanently?

 

[Tech By Trade]

Should be studs all the way around. Pull the manifold, get it planed, put on a gasket and new studs. Should work fine. Problem is that the manifolds warp breaking the studs. Crappy metal used by ford if you can imagine that.

 

[DaytonGuy]

Shop just called. Someone has put oversized bolts on two stud holes in an attempt to "fix" it. Shop said to fix it right, they need to pull motor and likely have to send head out to be machined with helicoil installed in the two holes or to replace the head all together.

Not exactly what I wanted to hear! They quoted me about $2600 for that job.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Brutal man, I was going to say that they probably tapped the holes to bigger bolts. That sucks. Heli-coils suck too.

 

[Tigersoul]

Not a Ford guy, but mostly cut my teeth on DSM's. Some of our studs are also problem areas (exhaust manifold). Helicoiled mine with no issues, so I'm hoping it's as easy of a fix for you. Sucks they say you have to yank the engine, tho', that definitely complicates things.

 

[DaytonGuy]

I called a local Ford dealer and they verified that the motor comes out to get heads off. I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and get it done. I'm going to wait a while to do it. As long as it seals up quickly, I should be OK to drive it for a little while.

 

[Trac Marks]

As long as it seals up quickly, I should be OK to drive it for a little while.

This noise is 100% an inconvenient nuisance. Leaving it as-is will not affect performance, drivability or reliability - short or long-term, so IMO its not something that "has" to be fixed. Mine has ticked for a few years, probably the last 30K miles if not more. Truck runs and drives fantastic. I've developed a habit of immediately starting the truck when I get in, THEN fiddling with radio, seat belt, phone, drink, temperature controls, etc. Once I'm ready to go, the truck is too, and its quiet as a church mouse.

Adding a performance muffler will drown-down this ticking noise and it'll be much less money if you wanted to go that route.

Whenever a Ford dealer, a plumber or an electrician quotes $2600, that usually ends up more like $3600 if not more.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Not much reason to pull the heads if you have the engine out. You have a straight shot line to install the helicoils with the engine out. 2700 seems a little steep. 8 hrs to pull the engine, 20 minutes to put the helicoils in. Its been a while since I had to put in a helicoil (spark plugs in an old yamaha sled) but they ran around 20 bucks each back in the 90's. You should probably replace the manifold when you have it out, or at least have it plained.

 

[DaytonGuy]

They quoted 25 hours total labor. Pulling the head was in the event it needed the holes machined. Not sure what kind of damage the larger bolts have done to the stud holes.

In any event, I'm going to let it be for a while. It seals up pretty quickly after startup. It seems to run good afterwords. I'm going to do plugs and coils next.

I did have them do a trans fluid and filter while I had it in. The trans seems to shift a little smother and the chunkiness is still there, but seems less sever than before. I think it helped, plus its good piece of mind for me. I have no idea if it had ever been done. I'm at 119,000 miles.

 

[caaarz]

I have both issues.

DaytonGuy, I have both issues.

I have a buddy that works at a Ford dealership. The exhaust manifold leak is anywhere from $800 to $1200 repair. New gaskets, studs and manifold.

I had him flash the transmission. It helped but I drive slow and easy. I say that because when I started to drive aggressive, the clunk came back.

They quoted 25 hours total labor. Pulling the head was in the event it needed the holes machined. Not sure what kind of damage the larger bolts have done to the stud holes.

In any event, I'm going to let it be for a while. It seals up pretty quickly after startup. It seems to run good afterwords. I'm going to do plugs and coils next.

I did have them do a trans fluid and filter while I had it in. The trans seems to shift a little smother and the chunkiness is still there, but seems less sever than before. I think it helped, plus its good piece of mind for me. I have no idea if it had ever been done. I'm at 119,000 miles.

 

[Tech By Trade]

You would think they would be getting good at dealerships doing the helicoils, after all the tritons that tried to shoot the spark plugs through the hoods on the F150s. Your plugs and coils will cost you close to a grand if you take it into the shop themselves. you might get lucky and they could just pull the head to get the POS plugs out after they break off. Kill 2 birds with 1 stone.