New and Screwed.. cross posted

[pkn]

... and the front bumper is rubbing the driver's side wheel. Is that the kind of thing I can just knock back into place safely?..

When my wife was learning parallel parking and at one moment she just... ahem... forgot to apply the brakes, considering the other student in front of her, I've got into exact same situation. I didn't take any tools with me, so I just did lay on my back under the front end, found good support for my legs and pulled the bumper forward with my hands. It didn't yield much, but at least I was able to drive few miles back home without bumper cutting the tire into pieces. Depends on how deep the bumper is in the tire, I think. Bumpers on this old trucks are not plastic, you know.

If your are talking about "permanent" fix, with tools, and in a garage, then I would say yes. Metal was bent once during the accident, second time you will bend it putting in place. That will, of course, soften it somewhat, but in my opinion, not enough to worry too much about it. Although I, personally, would start looking (without fanaticism) for a replacement bumper. Not so much because it became weak, but mostly because it will never look perfectly aligned, and bumpers at junkyards are cheap.

 

[92exp4x4]

Hi yall, thank you so much for your advice. All I can say is that I'm grateful no one was hurt or worse, and I truly do feel lucky to be alive. My wrenching skills are good, i used to work in a bike shop for a few years. I'm definitely interested in repairing it- I moved it down the street with a bar to turn the wheels (got a parking ticket the day after- tow truck dropped it off more than 18 in from the curb..) and the front bumper is rubbing the driver's side wheel. Is that the kind of thing I can just knock back into place safely?

I'll look up some diagrams/tech docs on the steering box and pitman arm- is there a good run through on replacement procedure? I'll search the threads here too. Thanks again yall, this forum has been a lifesaver-

Chain the bumper to a pole or other heavy immovable object and back up.. I have used my forklift for this purpose, (understood not many have this particular option, but makes a good example.)

Steering box is really pretty straightforward. The only oddball tool you will need is a 1-5/16 socket and a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter for the pitman nut. Those sockets are typically 3/4 drive. It would be good time to change hoses and drain the power steering fluid. I use Dex 3 trans fluid. Steering shaft comes off, 2 lines come off, 3 bolts off frame and it's out. There are torque specs for the nut. Not totally critical, but you want it tight. The shaft is tapered slightly and the arm will wedge tighter as it's installed.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Good point on changing the hoses, now is an easy time and the pressure line WILL fail. Since you're replacing the box, I'd highly recommend throwing an in-line filter on the return line. I regret not doing it when I installed a new pump. It's not required but keep in mind that many vehicles have some kind of passive cooling for power steering yet our Explorers don't. Even the Ford trucks that used the same pump have a cooler that runs in front of the TTB. Ours not having a cooler, fluid degrades and wear increases, a filter will help.