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New cam synchronizer/cmp sensor install

Kesp4.0

Well-Known Member
Joined
January 12, 2012
Messages
217
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95
City, State
Los Angeles, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 Explorer XLT
Based on advice I received here earlier in the year I purchased a newer (96+) Motorcraft cam synchronizer to install in a 1993 engine. My manual states that for a 1993 Explorer the cam synchronizer (the oem style window unit) should be installed 60 degrees counterclockwise from the engine centerline while at 26 degree (34mm) above TDC. For 1996 and newer explorers it should be 60 degrees counterclockwise from the engine centerline while exactly at TDC. Which measurement should I be using to install this newer style unit on the older engine? Thanks for your help
 



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93 did not have a cam synchronizer?? your truck must be a late 93 with CA emissions?? Does your engine also have EGR?
Has your engine been replaced before?

Allright now that is sorted out kinda, forget what you read about the old 94/95 glass window style synchronizer.....just toss it out of your head.
Pretend you are all 1996 in there. I have dropped probably 25-30 cam synchros into 4.0 ohv engines over the years, so you can just listen to me :)

Bring cylinder number one (pass side front cyl) to top dead center on COMPRESSION STROKE
Now there are 2,000,000 ways to find TDC on comp stroke, but here is how I do it on Ford 4.0, 5.0, ATV engines, snowmobile engines, etc.....it always works this way

Remove #1 plug
put 21mm socket on front of crank balancer with ratchet.
Wet a finger and stick it in the #1 plug hole.
Bar engine over by hand (clockwise) until air rushes passed your finger....this is the compression stroke.
Now with a flashlight you can actually watch the piston come up to the top....and as soon as it reaches the top and just starts to change directions STOP.
That is TDC compression stroke.
(some people like to use a small screwdriver for this so they can tell when the piston reaches top, that works too) For me I find with the tire removed I can easily see in the #1 plug hole.
However you do it, just do it.
You can check the mark on the crank balancer if you like, the little pointer should be right at the 0 or damn close.

Now you are ready to drop in the cam synchro with alignment tool

The way this works is the cam synchro gear with align with the drive gear on the cam. As you drop the synchro down and in it will rotate, as the gears mesh the synchro will turn clockwise. The synchro will rotate about 15-20 degrees as it drops down. Exactly like stabbing a distributor from yesteryear.
For you new kids a distributor was an old spinny thing that sent spark from one coil to several plugs by actually spinning in circles and making electrical contacts....I know I know you can only see them in museums anymore.

When the synchro is finally fully seated all the way down the alignment tool should point like this:
We will call this the "home position"

171_071042_170000000.jpg


the picture above I took years and years ago is of a 98 ohv engine, this pictures shows up just about anytime you google 4.0 cam synchro

Now here is where people over think this
you see the cam sensor can end up close to this picture............
but not exactly and STILL BE ON THE CORRECT TOOTH for timing.

How?? you ask.
Well it all depends on where you stopped the piston at TDC
If you went to 10 degrees after TDC then the cam synchro would be locked down a little closer to center, if you were just a few degrees before TDC then it would be locked down a little closer to the passenger head....
both home positions would still be correct because in both cases you are still on the correct cam gear tooth.

Co you can spend all day trying to get the cam synchro to be exactly 60 degrees from centerline yadda yadda yadda or you can just know you are on the correct tooth and call it good.

It would be VERY DIFFICULT to be a tooth off because the cam synchro will rotate so far it wont even be close to our "home position" anymore. Each tooth results in like 12-20 degrees of rotation
 






Thanks so much for all of this good info. The truck is a 12\92 built 1993 model year for CA market. It does have EGR and is the original engine. As for distributors, I wish this thing was as easy to get to as those. I've worked on older Ford's with the distributors at the front and Chevrolet sbc engines with them in the back and they were super easy to reach. Fortunately this engine is out so I'm trying to do it now. I made the best stab that I could. Does this look okay?
7D958879-CCD1-4659-84BC-7E686E796C3C.jpeg
2896F6A4-41FA-49E9-9FE1-BEDCE7A49213.jpeg
 












The alignment looks almost exactly like the pic I took above it, I think you nailed it.

Are you sure you are on TDC on compression stroke cyl #1?
If so then you are on the correct tooth because if you moved it one tooth to the pass side it would hit intake and one tooth to the drivers side it would be way past center to the drivers side...so I think you have it correct, looks good to me as an internet wrench jockey

Everything looks so clean, even the engine stand! well done
 






Awesome, glad to know it looks like it'll work. Thanks so much for all of your help. I'm pretty sure the positioning of the cam is correct. The #1 is def TDC, I can see it through the spark plug hole and the balancer is at the mark. Both valves closed. As for the engine, it's super clean because I sent it in as a long block to a local rebuilder and I just finished up getting everything back on it and painting it. Now I just need to either find a 96 ohv in a junkyard to yank the connector for this cmp or perhaps just get a new connector off of Rockauto. Thanks again for all of the good advice. What a great place this is!
 






I should have a 3 wire CPS pigtail, I have a couple of engine harness downstairs
I could cut one off and ship to you but it wont go out until Monday?

You are welcome! I learned all of this stuff from:
research online, which lead me to EF back in 1999
Other people
Junk yard
school of hard knocks

So I'm just giving back :)
 






That would be great, thanks!
 






This sounds dumb but not sure how to PM
 






no sweat
Ill get pigtail today
to send a PM (private message) just mouseover my name and click "start conversation"
 






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