New Timing Tensioner fitted but no oil

[woodster]

Hi all....I have just fitted a new timing chain tensioner the hydralic one fitted in the head towards the front of the engine on the left hand bank.
upon start up the chains were still ratteling (these are new too, by the way)
Wjhen the hydralic tensioner was removed again it was noticed that there was no oil getting to it thus it could not do it's job.
Has anyone else experienced this and if so, did you manage to clean out the oil Journals to rectify this problem.

 

[CDW6212R]

I just bought a 99 SOHC myself. I will be instslling the $35 kit soon. I have a 1-2 second rattle on startup, and a slight noise from the bottom front of the engine. I'll install the kit before I try to diagnose my other noise.

Are you a new owner of the 98? How did the oil pressure work before? If you are a new owner, then everything is suspect, including the oil pump. I am told that the common noise is from the chains being too loose, because the tensioner isn't getting enough oil pressure. Good luck,]
DonW

 

[woodster]

I have had the vehicle for over a year now and the chains started to rattle and I was going to take it in to get it checked over but unfortunatly The timing chain tensioner went and broke the rocker cover before I could get it sorted. I stripped it down and found that the main tensioner had gone and replaced this then done the top tensioner but there is still no oil getting through to it so it cannot work and the top chain still is ratteling aginst the rocker cover.

The oil pressure is fine according to the gauge and always has been so I believe the pump is ok but someone told me that it could be a journal that is blocked so I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this and how did they get it cleared.

 

[TPLYNCH]

If the plastic tensioners blew, then yes, plastic would get sucked into the oil passages and pump. I think the only way to rectify is to tear the engine down further. Not sure if you try and "snake" out the passages. Will have to leave this to more knowledgeable individuals here...

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, I have never worked on one of these myself. The SOHC engine has a short steel pan covering the oil pump. I am told that the pump can be easily changed.

I believe you should fix the oil passage problem immediately, before running the engine again. If only the tensioners are not getting oil, you are "only" risking catastrophic valvetrain failure. My point is that eventually, probably sooner than later, the engine will blow.

Find out why there isn't oil getting to the tensioners. It would be a very good idea to replace the oil pump, if you have had debris in the engine. Good luck,
DonW

 

[woodster]

Hi All thanks for the replies, i guess the only way to fix this then is to take the head off and check the oil galleries for any plastic that may have broken up.

Many thanks

 

[CDW6212R]

Do find a Ford technician to suggest an easier way. I don't know anything about the SOHC, but hopefully someone else here does. Good luck,
DonW

 

[woodster]

Yeah thanks Don..... I might try and get an air line in first to see if I can shift any debris, there was a load in the sump so looks bad at the minute.....I dont think it will be with me much longer though judging by the problems some people are having on here....enough is enough and the service I have recieved from Ford has been bad so the 3 Fords that I do have will be going and I will buy something more reliable in the future.
Probably Japanese and German

 

[CDW6212R]

Sorry to hear that, but good luck.

I have had more than ten Ford vehicles. All of them were bought used. I have never had any reliability problems, except for issues created by previous owners poor maintenance.

The reliability of any vehicle has much more to do with the way it is maintained, then who made it. I have have seen countless vehicles fail in ways that I expect never to happen to me, because I know how to maintain my vehicles well.
These vehicles that I have seen fail were American, Japanese , etal. I have worked with people whose ball joints have fallen apart, tie rods fallen off, axles literally fallen out, transmissions burned up more than once, etc. With proper maintenance, most catastrophic failures don't happen, because the mechanic prevents them, or preempts them.

It is a shame that you have had problems. May I suggest that you search hard for a better mechanic, and not go buying foreign cars. The reliability of your vehicles will be directly related to the quality of your mechanic. It is hard to locate a used vehicle which you know hasn't been abused. But considering the cost of a new vehicle, it is worth the attempt.
Good luck,
Don W

 

[kentford]

oil pan

pull your oil pan metal pan bottom engine very easy to do if your chain guides came apart it will be full of plastic clean out may need to remove sump to clean I've done 100's of the chain guide and tensiner recall's only engine problems were from poor maintenance not a ford problem

 

[CDW6212R]

Hello kentford, were all of the 4.0 SOHC timing chain issues caused by the same thing?
My Ford tech, and friend, told me that my 99 may only need the plastic "sleeve" which holds pressure for the tensioner when the engine is off. He could only find the part number for the recall kit, which includes that part, so I bought it. The kit is just $34, and only has a tensioner, gaskets, and that special plastic part in it.

Was there a manufacturing date past which they shouldn't have problems?
Don

 

[amessie]

Chain Cassette

:fire: Make sure you are on the correct side tracking your rattle. I have just completed removing my right side (passenger) cam chain cassette/tensioner assembly. I have seen many posts concerning the "rattle" and have had the problem myself for about 20k. I had the easy left side recall work done at 50k, at 100k now. I first went for the tensioner but when I got the valve cover off I saw the the cassette was broken into about 4 pieces. The broken cassette allows the chain to flop around which affects the timing=detonation. This flimsy plastic guide has been ground away by the cam chain so now I have to do a serious flush to attempt to remove the junk THANKS FORD. So I have just removed my trans and ordered the OTC 4.0 cam timing tools which are essential to complete this job. 200 vs the 1k that the dealer wants to do this job. They pull the engine but it can be done by removing the trans. I plan on posting some pics and a description of this.

 

[kentford]

Hello kentford, were all of the 4.0 SOHC timing chain issues caused by the same thing?
My Ford tech, and friend, told me that my 99 may only need the plastic "sleeve" which holds pressure for the tensioner when the engine is off. He could only find the part number for the recall kit, which includes that part, so I bought it. The kit is just $34, and only has a tensioner, gaskets, and that special plastic part in it.

Was there a manufacturing date past which they shouldn't have problems?
Don

sorry about not getting back to you. the 99 on up uses the 00m12 only which will fix start-up stall and idle and also lh side chain noise you may or may not have up-dated tensiner in your truck if you look beside the thermstat housing ds side you will find the tensioner if it has about a inch above head it has the updated tensioner also 99 and new explorers don't need 01m01 they have new style cass. hope this helps

 

[CDW6212R]

kentford, thankls for the reply. I haven't checked yet, but if I have the updated tensioner, then the tensioner that I have with the kit, is the same one?

Then I should just initially add/change the plastic valve? I was told that this white plastic part is what holds oil pressure for the tensioner when the engine is shut off. It's about five inches long, about 1/4" diameter, smaller at each end. There is supposed to be a plug on top of this piece, which is also in the kit. Thanks,
DonW

 

[kentford]

yes it will be the same one in kit if you have a cold start up stall problem you may still need the o-rings