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New Tips for coolant hose replacement.

O2Thief

Member
Joined
September 2, 2002
Messages
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City, State
BTR, LA
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 XLT V8 AWD
I have a 97 X V8 w/ that just clicked 90K miles. I've had this pesky coolant leak for a while, but just couldn't determine its origination point. While in VA it got a little worse so I tightened a couple clamps on the suspect hoses and it went away (temporarily). Now four day's ago (nearly two months later), it looked like the engine was puking coolant everywhere. I couldn't locate the leak initially d/t the belt spray soaking everything. I finally narrowed it down to three lines: The coolant "bypass" line off the top of the water pump, the longer coolant line right next to the bypass line and the coolant hose between the oil cooler and water pump. I decided to replace the lower radiator hose at the same time since I would be down there. Needless to say what started out to be an hour and a half job, turned into a nightmare. I got the top two coolant lines within 15-20 minutes. It took me forever to get the fan clutch off using the "special tool". The only thing valuable in that tool set was the thin wrench. The weird peice that fits over the bolts on the waterpump pulley was about 5mm off so it didn't even fit. I finally stabilized the waterpump pulley by bracing a 13mm wrench (attached to one bolt up against another). Then I broke the fan-clutch loose and just loosened it by hand. I had to also remove the fan shroud at the same time. Now that the fan shroud and fan were removed (with the belt removed), I had about 6-7 inches more than the "gnat hair" that I started with to work (what a relief). I figured it would be difficult to place a 3" long hose that's 2" diameter between two pipes with an opening between them of 1/2". Next, I loosened the oil filter and figure'd I would rotate the oil cooler to ease the hose installation by sliding the hose completely on the oil cooler outlet and then rotating and sliding it back to the waterpump. This required a 12mm Hex head socket (which I figured out that Sears, Home depot, Lowe's, O'Reilly autoparts don't carry, but Autozone sure does [a three pack]) to break loose. After rotating the housing and replacing the hose, everything else was a snap. Now after filling the X up w/ coolant there are no leaks of any sort. Thanks to those that responded before. Hope this helps anyone else w/ the V8 Explorer to replace these hoses. ;)
 



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glad it turned out ok... .hexhead socket? like a regular socket? or an allen wrench type?
 






Originally posted by jimabena74
glad it turned out ok... .hexhead socket? like a regular socket? or an allen wrench type?

Allen head type. Everyplace carried 10mm but never the 12mm. Autozone happened to carry the 12, 15 & 17mm in a three pack. Thanks.
 






THANKS!! THANKS!!! I could not figure out how to replace the wtr. pump to oil filter adapter hose (on my 1996 V8, AWD, E.B.), which I had bought several months ago, had it all apart, then checked this website, found your article, which mirrored my situ exactly, I just needed to replace my upper rad. nose, which had rubbed a hole in it on the fan shroud!!!, but wanted to do ALL the hoses while I had it apart, I took the radiator out (son-of-a-gun to get it separated from the a/c condensor!!!!!!!!!!) I could NOT get the fan clutch off, so I just took rad. out instead, and took the oil filter adapter off with a large TORX 3/8" drive socket, in place of the 12mm hex, I had large allen wrenches, but none that would fit that thing, but the large torx bit worked A-OK, removing and re-installing the adapter.
thank GOODNESS for this GREAT site!!!

James Jensen Dallas, TX
1996 Explorer EB, V8 AWD 105k
1997 Taurus SHO V8, 117k
1966 Falcon Ranchero V8, 200k+
 






Water Pump to oil cooler hose

Great post. I'm in the midst of replacing a leaky radiator and decide to change the hoses while I'm at it. Figured out that the oil cooler needs to move but couldn't find a 12mm bit; I'll check Pep Boys, etc. tomorrow as well as for the hoses.
I'm a little concerned about just rotating the cooler; have you had any oil leaks since doing it? I'm assuming that it can be taken off completely and that there's an o-ring that can be replaced between the cooler and the block? Has anyone done it that way? Is the O-ring readily available? Or does everyone just rotate the cooler and hope the o-ring is in good condition?
I didn't remove the fan as I didn't have a wrench large enough, but I'm thinking of buying one and getting the fan out of the way to install the new radiator. It was such a pain separating the old radiator from the A/C condenser, I'm thinking the extra space will help.
I'll post when I'm finished with any pointers I pick up for reinstalling the radiator.
Thanks to everyone that posts on this great site. You've saved me lots of time; I hope I can add something.
 






V8 oil cooler hose replacement, O-ring....and console lid question....

No, I have not had ANY leaks, since REMOVING the oil cooler, and replacing both water hose that go to and then from it. There is NO way you could replace that small hose, between the cooler and the water pump, unless you removed water pump....the o-ring on the oil cooler seems to be very high quality, and looked to be very re-usable....
Thanks,
James Jensen
(formerly of Dallas, now just moved to Dayton, OH area, Explorer, w/ 106k on it, made the trip up here with no problem.
96 Eddie Bauer, blue w/tan trim, V8, AWD, tan leather interior

HEY, does anyone know if you can buy the console lid in TAN from Ford parts???
 






I got away with just rotating the oil cooler. So far, ~1100 miles, no leaks.
Yes you can get the console cover in Tan from Ford dealers but it was really expensive. I took mine off (three screws at the back of the cover hold the hinge on), took it to a local auto upholstery shop that does a lot of custom work, and they matched the tan leather nearly perfectly with a vinyl that's heavier and feels better (softer) than the original for less than half the price. I don't remember the exact price now, but I'm sure $40-$45 would cover it (ha, ha) including shipping. Let me know if you can't get it done in Dayton and want me to get it done for you. You could ship me the cover, and I'll ship it back after its done.
BTW, what're you doing in Dayton? I go there on occasion to the DMAX Diesel plant.
 






Naftaturbo said:
I got away with just rotating the oil cooler. So far, ~1100 miles, no leaks.
Yes you can get the console cover in Tan from Ford dealers but it was really expensive. I took mine off (three screws at the back of the cover hold the hinge on), took it to a local auto upholstery shop that does a lot of custom work, and they matched the tan leather nearly perfectly with a vinyl that's heavier and feels better (softer) than the original for less than half the price. I don't remember the exact price now, but I'm sure $40-$45 would cover it (ha, ha) including shipping. Let me know if you can't get it done in Dayton and want me to get it done for you. You could ship me the cover, and I'll ship it back after its done.
BTW, what're you doing in Dayton? I go there on occasion to the DMAX Diesel plant.

I was transferred here by National City Mortgage, I was living in Dallas,TX area, before 4/08/04. I work in the IT department.
Thanks,
James Jensen
eokie1@yahoo.com
 






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