No Fluid to the rear line!

[Darrman]

I am installing a 99 rear axle on my 92, everything was going great till it came time to bleed the brakes. The pedal is VERY stiff, the fronts are bleeding like they are supposed to, but the rears are getting NO fluid. I have taken the entire rear brake hose off, just open steel line, and get nothing. Again the pedal stays the same on the rears but the fronts do like they are supposed to. Also the master cylinder is working, pushing fluid out both ports.
My fear is that somehow the prop valve is closed or something. I had the line open for a couple hours while I got the new axle in place, and refilled the master cylinder before the bleeding started.
Any help will be greatly appreciated, thanks!

 

[TedJ]

The rear wheel abs valve (you have that right?) Is rusted shut / stuck internally... try loosening the input line there that comes from the master and see if fluid comes out, If it does its bad. This happens every once in awhile to someone here. You've probably been driving without rear brakes for awhile... (hence encouraging the rear disk swap)

 

[Darrman]

That sucks, I do not want to replace this thing, it is a pain to get too, and cost $120. I tried leveling it out and tapping it with a rachet, still nothing. Looks like I dont have a choice

 

[Darrman]

Thanks for the heads up on the unit, turned out to be it allright. Got it changed out this afternoon, worked perfect. Now I just need to adjust my master cylinder and I should have way better brakes!
Thanks again!

 

[TedJ]

No problem, good to know you got it fixed. Your brakes are going to be so much better now since you were driving with fronts only before you started...

 

[AndyM]

i have the same issue. no fluid pressure to rear brakes. Handbrake is fine..but its all front. I DON'T have ABS, and i don't see an axle valve anywhere. So anyone know this one?

cheers

 

[TedJ]

If you have 94 then it has the 4 Wheel ABS. (unless somebody bypassed it which is not likely due to all the work in replacing the lines) It's not known for the sticking shut issues that that the Rear Wheel ABS is known for.

Follow the lines from the master to the pump (driver's side front frame rail) and back to the axle. Make sure the lines are connected and not smashed shut or anything. If they pass the visual test, start opening up fittings starting in the rear and work toward the front... find where you start getting fluid.

 

[AndyM]

okay i just checked the thing and its a 92 xlt..2wd 4.0litre. No abs and no rear brakes.


cheers

 

[TedJ]

It should be Rear Wheel ABS then if it's a 92. I don't recall them ever being offered without it...

 

[AndyM]

okay let me get this right..ABS IS "Automatic assist Braking System"?

If so, then this machine does not have it, and as far as i know, never has. The nearest the braking has had any mods, is the last owner put in an electronic braking system for his trailer. But it is a bog standard "T" Explorer and has no relationship with the live brake pipes.

I just don't get how i can have a perfectly functional handbrake but no damn rear foot brake.
I was hoping for an axle valve or something, but nothing. just a small splitter on the axle that distributes to the bake wheels.

 

[TedJ]

Did you follow the line up from the rear to where the RWABS valve should be, kind of where the hinge side of the driver's door is about, inside the C channel of the frame? See what's there...

 

[RangerX]

I just don't get how i can have a perfectly functional handbrake but no damn rear foot brake.

The E-brake is independant of the foot brakes. It works off a cable that mechanically pulls the rear shoes.
Ted is right about the RABS valve, there's a bleed valve on it that you may need to bleed before bleeding at the two rear wheels.

 

[AndyM]

thanks guys. its really helpful you know. god i have been repairing vehicles since i was 16 but i don't know them all.i just replaced the whole front suspension plate that attaches to the chassis...you know the one thats factory riveted? Yeppers, was no problem with a grinder and some high grade steel bolts to replace it. the only hassle was the center nut for the spring. Stupid design..but hey..

so thanks all of you. i will look at this today and hopefully get to the bottom of it.

 

[AndyM]

I found the damn valve and can see the extent of my nightmare. i am old school and my first thought was..."well, i don't need that crap, let me interrupt this, undo the pipes and join them together without the valve."

So whats to stop me guys, and how do i get rid of this thing..by the roots? I read there is a computer module for this and all sorts?

I see a large wiring array coming from the valve toward the rear of the truck..where is it going?

anyway..can you tell me what size the pipe ends are so i can make up a length of pipe to join the two ends together please?

please advise.

cheers.

 

[AndyM]

well it seems as if you can remove it without any comeback. i have full power going to the rear now..and the brakes have never been better.

The electronic brake valve, its computer and associated wiring and sensors are gone. What an unnecessary piece of crap.

took me 10 hours to fix it all.

Old school rules

 

[AndyM]

okay guys, now i have a yellow "rear anti-lock" and a red brake light staying on the dash. i need to clear these so can someone tell me where the control for this is? I have no valve and the wiring is disconnected and has been removed.

i have missed something i know......