no high beams or CC

[Stynx]

05 xlt sport. The PO put in an aftermarket remote start which I suspect is the culprit but the rat's nest of wires associated with it is beyond me to fix.

The weird thing is, when you use the momentary switch (pull the stalk back) the high beams work perfectly but when you push it forward they won't come on. So the lamps work. I bought and installed a brand new multifunction switch and it does the same thing - momentary high beams are fine but the do not stay on when you push the stalk forward.

The PO also wired in a separate switch for the headlights. Apparently the dash switch didn't work properly so he installed one on the dash underneath. Oddly, at this time the stock headlight switch is working perfectly but I can turn the headlights on with added switch but that does not turn on the tail lights. Total kludge job. Everything else works - fog lights, turn signals tail and reverse lights all work no problem. I'd really like to get the high beams working normally though. Any ideas what to check?

CC also inop. No dash light and no function at all. I replaced the switches on the steering wheel, the blue switch on the brake pedal and the sensor on the master cylinder. Still inop. The remote start will shut off the engine when you hit the brake pedal if the key isn't inserted so I know at least the switch on the brake pedal works (I can see a wire spliced to that switch from the remote start module).

Any suggestions for either issue?

 

[J_C]

Generally to get rid of an add-on like that, you just note which original vehicle wires go to and from it of the same color/stripe, and reconnect those back together.

The stalk (aka Multi-Function Switch (MFS) ) might have a wire contact in the connector to it, pulling out the back. This was not uncommon on 2nd gen explorers. The connector can be replaced or some have just held the contact in while putting a little epoxy on the back to hold it in place, ideally while plugged into the MFS so if there's any wiggle room in the connector, the contact is aligned as well as possible while the epoxy sets.

Cruise control, I'd try to hunt down a wiring diagram for your generation. I've attached one for a 2nd gen explorer, wouldn't trust it 100% but the setup may be similar and help to trace the wires and measure for power with a multimeter. If all the wiring has continuity (under 5 ohms is a general ford guideline) and connectors are good/seated, then I'd wonder if the cruise control module itself (AKA Speed Control Servo Amplifier Assembly) has failed.

I'd also check for blown fuses.

 

[Stynx]

Generally to get rid of an add-on like that, you just note which original vehicle wires go to and from it of the same color/stripe, and reconnect those back together.

The stalk (aka Multi-Function Switch (MFS) ) might have a wire contact in the connector to it, pulling out the back. This was not uncommon on 2nd gen explorers. The connector can be replaced or some have just held the contact in while putting a little epoxy on the back to hold it in place, ideally while plugged into the MFS so if there's any wiggle room in the connector, the contact is aligned as well as possible while the epoxy sets.

Cruise control, I'd try to hunt down a wiring diagram for your generation. I've attached one for a 2nd gen explorer, wouldn't trust it 100% but the setup may be similar and help to trace the wires and measure for power with a multimeter. If all the wiring has continuity (under 5 ohms is a general ford guideline) and connectors are good/seated, then I'd wonder if the cruise control module itself (AKA Speed Control Servo Amplifier Assembly) has failed.

I'd also check for blown fuses.

Thanks! I think you might be right about a loose wire in the connector. I will check that.

 

[Bookworm370]

Generally to get rid of an add-on like that, you just note which original vehicle wires go to and from it of the same color/stripe, and reconnect those back together.

.

Thanks for the posting. By any chance, do you have the service manuals for the 3rd Gen (2003 4.6L V8) Explorer handy. I've been trying to troubleshoot code that seem to be jumping around and it would be great to have a definitive resource.

Thanks again in advance

 

[J_C]

^ I do have the 2000-2004 for *all?* Fords, is about 5.3GB... I noted that I got it from cardiagn.com which is linked in my sig as "more explorer wiring & manuals"... let me see if I can find the d/l link to it...

Yeah, it's linked on this page, and the following direct link to mega:

ERROR

File on MEGA

mega.nz

There is a quirk using some of these. I don't know if it applies to the one linked above, but I know on the similar 2005-2006 version, it checks the computer date and won't run if it detects it's old. The instructions (3rd party) state to set your computer's clock to sometime in that year range, for example maybe July 2003 for a 2003 iso.

Further if you forget to set your computer clock back to the present date, it can do strange, unexpected things like temporarily invalidate the trust certificates that browsers use so webpages won't load, but that is only temporary till you set your computer clock back to the present. There are also ways around changing your computer's date, just tricking that one app. One example is using a loader app called "runasdate" which is freeware. I have a custom link made for it to do this, with a copy of it in the same folder it installs to (C:\TSO), looks like this, so I can just run this shortcut to run the app without fiddling with the system clock twice.:

"C:\TSO\RunAsDate.exe" /movetime 24\07\2005 00:00:00 "C:\TSO\tsobrowser.exe"

Again, I don't know if you'll need to do anything about the date for the 2000-2004 version, but you might, and that shortcut text above would be changed from 2005 to 2003 if you use runasdate to load it.

RunAsDate - Run a program with the specified date/time

RunAsDate is a small utility that allows you to run a program in the date and time that you specify

www.nirsoft.net

 

[Bookworm370]

^ I do have the 2000-2004, is about 5.5GB... I noted that I got it from cardiagn.com which is linked in my sig as "more explorer wiring & manuals"... let me see if I can find the d/l link to it...

You will be my new best friend if you can! Appreciate it!

 

[J_C]

I've edited my prior post since you last read it, including the link.

I should also mention, that I think I have probably ran that 2000-2004 one before, but I'm not 100% sure. My point is, this is a 3rd party and I can't vouch for it being clean of malware... I doubt it has any malware because none of the other things I've gotten from cardiagn had any, and no malware scans I've done picked up on anything, but I'm just sayin'... I didn't put that on mega and it is up to you to make sure it's safe to use.

 

[Bookworm370]

Great thanks, It's an ISO so that generally means burning a DVD from it. I also have a MAC with a couple of scanners. Normally Malware doesn't bother MACs so much especially of that vintage!

 

[J_C]

^ I just mounted it in windows with Daemon Tools Lite (freeware) to install. No need to burn a DVD, but you may need to keep the ISO mounted with Daemon Tools while running the app, unless you want to try what is mentioned below which works for some of the DVD ISOs I have and others it doesn't.

Supposedly newer versions of Daemon Tools Lite contains ads. My old one doesn't but you can (probably?) instead just use Daemon Tools to rip all the files off the ISO into a folder and install from there, so the installer points back to that folder if it needs it while running the app, and uninstall Daemon Tools if there are annoying ads.

DAEMON Tools - imaging software for all your needs - DAEMON-Tools.cc

Welcome to the official site of DAEMON Tools products! Here you can find out more about one of the best imaging software or download your free DAEMON Tools trial.

www.daemon-tools.cc

 

[Bookworm370]

Thanks, .iso's are really just also .DMG files on a MAC which can be natively mounted and extracted. I have a NAS with 12TB so lot of online storage for the expanded file.

Just waiting for another couple of hours, as the download size limit expired on download. Only had 40Gig to go. But I left the window open and it says it will automatically restart the download where it left off when the timer expires.