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How to: Overhead console display fix - 2nd Gen

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
Also before the LCD display completely stopped turning on completely it progressively took longer and longer to turn on as well. Sometimes taking more than 5 minutes.

Sounds like mine, but my display is working now due to the resistor swap.
 



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Replacement capacitor for 2nd gen. explorer w/out sunroof

Here's some info on the capacitor
120 microfarad, 6.3v, and you can get it off of Newark.com for 19 cents, yes $0.19 ($0.185 is what it actually says) before taxes and shipping (expect $5ish for shipping but any time I've ordered anything it got to my house in 2 or 3 days). This should be a good replacement and I am actually going to buy me a couple of these since they are so cheap (not a bad idea considering the prongs are prone to breaking easily if bent) the use of fine solder is recommended.

The Newark part # 65R3866
The manufacturer part # UPW0J121MDD1TD
Made by Nichicon

Hope this helps
 






repairing your overhead compass

Dan at www.siliconmethod.com repaired our Explorer compass; he did a great job. I took a look at the work and it is professional, plus all new parts on the board. Highly recommended.

I didn't want to send it out, but it kept going out on us and didn't want to deal with it anymore. :/
 






Overhead console display fix - unorthodox temp. solution

My 2004 Sport Trac developed this problem. I couldn't see any issues with the solder joints. However, with the board plugged in I could get the display to work by slightly pressing on the 510 resistors, so I know the solder joints must be cracked.

I don't have the tools to solder the joints right now, so I dreamed up a temporary solution. Using a tootsie roll wrapper, I folded the paper in half 4 or 5 times and taped it to the cover, positioning it just so, so that when the unit is assembled, the wrapper presses on the resistors just enough to and complete the connection. So far this fix is working.

I'm off to Radio Shack to purchase a soldering iron to make a permanent repair, but I just may see how long this temporary fix will work.

P.S. Any piece of paper would work. I just used what I had handy.
 






96 Explorer XLT, no moonroof

Thank you Thallarsen!
My board was different than the one in your excellent instructions, I have the other style shown on I think, page 3 of this thread. I resoldered the resistors, and figured, what the heck, I've got it apart, so reflowed the rest of the surface mount components, reassembled and reinstalled, and it worked like a champ!
 












Just tried installing my console, and it wouldn't power on. I checked my ground and power, fine. Gonna try to see if this is my problem next chance I get. I hope it is, seems easy enough to fix, actually, no, I HOPE my problem is that the console is "off" so all I have to do is hit a button. The resistors are a close second.
 






No luck. My circuitboard seemed solid, no breaks or cracks that I can find. Pics of my board just because. I think I might just pull another from the jy sometime soon. Unless someone has another idea/ instructions on how I could bench test it?

2012-02-05_17-57-37_985.jpg

2012-02-05_18-17-25_427.jpg
 












No I didn't do any soldering, I just checked to see if it was loose at all, I hadn't thought of a cold solder... maybe its worth investigating. I've got all the time in the world tomorrow, ill give it a shot. Thanks for reminding me about those.
 






Get the iron "tinned" good, then hold the center of the chiklet with a toothpick. Touch one end at a time or the chicklet will jump off.Try to heat the board contact and the end of the resistor simultaneously.

If it does jump off after touching one end, you know you found a bad solder joint because the other end should have held, if it was good.
 






Alright so I went and soldered for my first time, I did both sides of both resistors, starting with the botttom left. I did better than I thought, and got better. I did bottom right nextt, then top left, and sure enough, the right side of the top resistor popped off. Repositioned it, soldered it, then went out to plug it in and test it. I had a feeling I screwed something up, and when I plugged it in, I thought it was confirmed. NOTHING happened. Until I remembered to check the mode button. And boom, the screen was on.

2012-02-06_13-30-39_443.jpg


Thanks to everybody, I couldn't be happier right now.
 












overhead console display

Thanks, Worked for me, actually the entire chip came loose and got it back in place. When I popped in back in place (it worked again), I was temped to crazy glue it, But soldered it. Thanks again.
 












Thallarsen

Thanks buddy, this thread was I great help and my display is working again.
 






Thallarsen

Thanks buddy, this thread was I great help and my display is working again.

Glad to be of help. What's that display showing there in Iceland these days?
 






Dove into this at about midnight last night- Those connectors are a booger!!! Once those were undone, everything else was a snap. I did question the need for resolder at first, after seeing them.

IMG_1092.jpg



Then, I saw this part on the screen, and really hoped I didn't need a new screen:

IMG_1093.jpg



Went ahead and did it anyways:

IMG_1095.jpg




and, wouldn't you know it:

IMG_1097.jpg



thanks for all of the help!!!!
 






Thanks for the great pictures!!!
 



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Getting around to fixing some things on my 99 explorer sport today.
Ive wished for a long time the overhead display was useable. Well I said to myself ,I bet someone else has that problem and knows what to do.
Short story--I soldered the two 510 resisters as recommended and yes it works perfect.
Love it when something works.
Thanks to all who perfected the repair for us.
 






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