No power to windows-Fuse is good

[MarcJ]

Yes, I'm almost certain this very issue has been solved and is lurking somewhere
in this forum. I've been searching for my exact problem with no success (so far).
My son thought to surprise me with a salvaged overhead map light that he installed himself. He failed to disconnect the battery and now I have no power to my windows and sunroof. All of which are down. incidentally, the map light also failed to work. I've checked the 30a #4 fuse in the dist. box as well as all the other fuses, just in case. All are good. I'm supposed to be on the road for a two day trip in 3 hours and I'm beginning to panic. What am I missing????!!!!
I'm praying someone is on here and can lend some quick insight.
I'm still searching the threads for hope. Thanks

 

[J_C]

Did you only check the fuses in the interior fuse panel or also in the under the hood box? That's all I have:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=257217

 

[MarcJ]

Yes, I've checked both interior fuse panel and the distribution box under the hood.
Just a FYI though, my power seat which is on the same 30amp fuse still works as my non working windows and sun roof, still works. So.............A relay, maybe? A fried switch?
I'm still looking.

 

[J_C]

Somewhere in these forums topics are a few links to a site with wiring diagrams that might be helpful. Someone else might better remember where, it escapes me at the moment.

Found it, http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2850552&postcount=3

They do have a diagram for "power tops" (sunroof). I'm thinking it's easier to trace that, with it seeming to be the same fault affecting the windows but not as many switches and wires to deal with.

 

[intelisevil]

In my case ('99 Mounty) I've tracked down the problem but haven't found parts to fix it yet.

When you open the driver's door you'll find a round mega plug with what seems to be 80 circuits going through it. I found the female connector that's supposed to pass 12V+ to the power window switch in the driver's door is corroded away. I probed the wire below the mega plug and I have 12V+.

Last Summer was for brakes and front suspension work in preparation for new tires. Hopefully I can get the windows fixed and power to my heated mirrors this Summer . . .

Good Luck,

 

[J_C]

^ When I first read the topic title I was about to suggest that it was probably a broken wire in that door jam bundle, but AFAIK there is no sunroof wire in there, is there? Just an assumption, I don't know what changed between my '98 and a '00 model year but mine has no sunroof switch on the driver's door, or does the window lockout switch interrupt the sunroof too? Come to think of it, I've never tried that, locking out the sunroof with that switch, so I might be wrong.

That's why I think it's probably a fault somewhere else, that and that it happened (unless coincidentally) while someone was trying to put the light in and for lack of a better guess, probably shorted the circuit.

As for the mega connector, that seems like a heck of a lot of work to rewire. I wonder if there's a way to get individual contacts out and put a new one in, if someplace like Digikey.com might have them or a different connector (maybe same brand) that uses the same type that you could pull the contact out of to use, though it could take hours of research to figure that out if even reasonably possible, and for all I know the other contacts may be in similar condition.

I'd be tempted to take the lazy way out and just string a new jumper wire outside the mega connector, putting a common bullet connector on it if being able to disconnect it to take the door off later seems important... although there are cheap supposedly-waterproof connectors, with silicone gaskets in them, on eBay. A blob of silicone brake grease would be the quicker waterproofing considering the age of the vehicle.

 

[intelisevil]

As for the mega connector, that seems like a heck of a lot of work to rewire. I wonder if there's a way to get individual contacts out and put a new one in, if someplace like Digikey.com might have them or a different connector that uses the same type that you could pull the contact out of use, though it could take hours of research to figure that out if even reasonably possible.

I'd be tempted to take the lazy way out and just string a new jumper wire outside the mega connector, putting a common bullet connector on it if being able to disconnect it to take the door off later seems important... although there are cheap supposedly-waterproof connectors, with silicone gaskets in them, on eBay.

I had thought about the waterproof bullet connector but decided not to BS it. Electrical misjudgments can become vehicle fires. This is my daily driver so it's gonna be done right or not at all!

I bought a mega plug from a member parting out their Exploder, both halves with all of the wires. I plan to swap out the correct sized connector with a length of wire and do a proper splice in the boot.

I've only had one day off since Thanksgiving, I'm waiting for my extra Winter fun job (running a Ski Lift!!!) to be over. Then work on the Honey-do list, then I can sneak in some time on my Mounty.

 

[J_C]

^ Well, I suspect having that big bundle of wires prone to fraying apart is more of a risk of fire than one ran separately with nothing around it that burns except that big bundle of frayed wires.

I now have a rear window that doesn't work, presumably due to a break in there and have half a mind to just get rid of the whole connector and run high strand count silicone insulated wire to replace ALL of them, but man is that stuff expensive when you only need (ideally) a foot of each of several different colors. No hardware stores that sell by the foot have it around here.

 

[MarcJ]

No solid solution-so far

Just updating from my earlier post.
As I said, After a failed attempt by my son, to install an overhead map light, in which he did not disconnect the battery, I found I had no power to my windows, sun roof, cargo light. Also, the 4wd high and 4wd low dash lights are blinking 6x every minute or so. I've seemed to have lost my passing gear as well. All issues with the possible exception of the passing gear, were working prior to the map light install. I've checked all the fuses inside the cab and under the hood. I've replaced all related relays in cab and under hood, (I still can't locate the relay block under the battery)with no fix. I've been led to the Generic Electronic Module as a possible solution but I can't get a solid yea or nay, since this module apparently also controls the windshield wipers and mine work fine.
I'm still searching the archives here for an answer but haven't yet found one that fits well enough to explore. Thanks guys for the replies and to anyone that can......HELP!!!

 

[Harpua216]

If i recall correctly isnt there a window actuator? that are known to go bad?

Cant say for certain if it controls anything else, but did you try to eliminate the map light and put everything back to stock yet?

 

[J_C]

^ There's a window regulator which is the mechanical portion that raises and lowers the windows, attached to the motor, but offhand I'd say that it's just as likely that the motor's internal slip-puck type gear mechanism is chewed up, IF not an electrical problem.

You should hear the motor try to turn or spinning if power is getting to it, unless the motor itself is bad. Pulling the electrical connector and measuring voltage on it with a multimeter when the associated window button is pressed would tell you that.

 

[bobflood]

Another thought: There is an accessory delay relay that is controlled by the GEM; lets you move the windows and some other stuff after you turn off the key before you open the door. My GEM failed in such a way that just that portion stopped working; after some electrical troubleshooting I replaced the GEM with a used one and everything worked again. Good luck.

 

[MarcJ]

No solid solution-so far

Just updating from my earlier post.
As I said, After a failed attempt by my son, to install an overhead map light, in which he did not disconnect the battery, I found I had no power to my windows, sun roof, cargo light. Also, the 4wd high and 4wd low dash lights are blinking 6x every minute or so. I've seemed to have lost my passing gear as well. All issues with the possible exception of the passing gear, were working prior to the map light install. I've checked all the fuses inside the cab and under the hood. I've replaced all related relays in cab and under hood, (I still can't locate the relay block under the battery)with no fix. I've been led to the Generic Electronic Module as a possible solution but I can't get a solid yea or nay, since this module apparently also controls the windshield wipers and mine work fine.
I'm still searching the archives here for an answer but haven't yet found one that fits well enough to explore. Thanks guys for the replies and to anyone that can......HELP!!!

 

[MarcJ]

Good News!! I, by chance, read an article regarding defective fuses made in China. Specifically, fuses that test ok by the two contacts on the top of the fuse. Apparently, I had one of these. I changed the number 10 fuse and all was fixed. I immediately changed out all the fuses and replaced with American made. Wow!!

 

[J_C]

Wow, didn't see that one coming.