No Rear Parking/running lights

[timn8er]

Ok I think my trailer harness wire touched somehting. I had no rear lights except for brake lights and turn signals. I checked all fuses and the only one that went bad was the 30amp fuse under the hood. I replaced it and still no rear running lights. and yes i turned the headlights on,

its a 1995 Eddie Bauer explorer.

any help would be great.

Tim.

:scratch:

 

[timn8er]

Lights out

so i still have no parking lights in the rear. any ideas???

anyone... anyone...

 

[budwich]

Broken LOM module.

 

[timn8er]

I checked it with an Ohms meter and it seems ok. no broken points.

 

[budwich]

when you turn on your running lights, power has to come out of the appropriate wire going to your lights... sorry I don't have my schematics with me now.

 

[timn8er]

when you turn on your running lights, power has to come out of the appropriate wire going to your lights... sorry I don't have my schematics with me now.

Thanks for the info so far, I did some reading and founf the the pin #5 and 6 should have power, I did a test on the white/light green wire and found power with key on lights on. I didnt get power from the Brown wire. Im looking to find where the power comes from so I can see if there is power at the start before it heads to the LOM.

any more input would be great.

Just my luck the gas pedel fell off today, the 3 factory welds let go. had to get home by pullling on the cable with my shoe lace tied to it LOL ..

 

[MikeV]

Hmmm, does your dash lights turn on?

Because a friend of mine had this same problem, no parking lights and no running lights but his dash lights also did not come on.

It ended up just being the switch because it got melted.

 

[timn8er]

Hmmm, does your dash lights turn on?

Because a friend of mine had this same problem, no parking lights and no running lights but his dash lights also did not come on.

It ended up just being the switch because it got melted.

Dash works fine. even the parking lights in the front, Just not in the rear

 

[MikeV]

Well since both are not working then the chances of the wires gone bad are slim.

You really need a wiring diagram because someone mentioned a module. So if it is controlled by the module in anyway, then it could have gone bad.

But it also could be the wires going to the module, something could be shorted or even cut in someway.

Trying to fix any electrical problem is damn near impossible without the schematics, unless it's something really simply, which this doesn't seem to be.

Ask around and see if anyone can post the schematics or buy yourself a repair guide (I don't have one yet).

 

[timn8er]

I bought a Chiltons manual but the problem with these manuals is they dont give extra detail, I have the message centre in the console and the manuals ive seen dont give me the details as to how its wired

 

[MikeV]

Hmm, try Haynes, in my experience they always have full wiring schematics

If not try posting on the forums asking if anyone can upload one. I personally have shopkey5, but I only get access to it at school so I can't. But someone around here has to be a technician with online access to tech info.

 

[budwich]

my 96 drawings show voltage coming into and leaving the LOM on wire color "BR".... you should see it there. In addition, you should also see something in and out on LG.

.... note further looking at schematics.... the IN at the LOM is BR but W/LG out. also another out at the LOM on R/W which will eventually feed LG. The diagrams are not easy to read but I suspect your problem is with a feed from either of these.

 

[timn8er]

my 96 drawings show voltage coming into and leaving the LOM on wire color "BR".... you should see it there. In addition, you should also see something in and out on LG.

.... note further looking at schematics.... the IN at the LOM is BR but W/LG out. also another out at the LOM on R/W which will eventually feed LG. The diagrams are not easy to read but I suspect your problem is with a feed from either of these.

well thanks for the input.. But you say the the W/LG is power out. and BR/lg is power in. I only get a voltage reading on the W/lg

 

[budwich]

hopefully you are checking these with the "appropriate stimuli" (ie. light switch on, brakes on for that part, etc)..... you will then likely find more voltages as my "statement" refers about voltages refers to both running and brakes (dual filament bulbs). Anyways, your comment about "only on W/LG" is somewhat puzzling as I would have then thought that should give you your lights as this feeds the BR eventually as it passes thru a connector that should be close by... can you see this (ie. W/LG -> BR)? finally IF you disconnect the LOM and measure resistance on the W/LG (to ground), you should see something (ie. your bulbs).... IF not, then there is a break somewhere towards the bulbs.

 

[GUNITALLREDY]

i relize this is three years old but did you ever find the problem i have the exact same problem. where is the light output modual. i hooked up my trailer lights and ran for about two hours than this happend