not really powerful

[Mettler]

I haven't seen anyone in this thread recemend re-adjusting the kick down cable. I did that and it made quite a difference.
In the past in my other vehicles ive used different weight oils and found that thicker oils really put a big drag on the motor. My 1st gen Eclipse ran the best on Mobile 1 15/20. In my Exploder I run full synthetic high milage 5/30. Also whenever you have the defroster turned on, or even just in the def position without the fan on the AC pump is activated. They do that because the AC system draws all the moisture out of the cab. I usually only run the defroster as short a time as possible, then switch over to floor. That keeps the perisitic power draw to a minimum. I agree with one of the recemendations here in that you may consider changing the trans filter and definatly tighten the bands. If you dont feel comfortable doing it, Im sure you know a gear head that knows what they're doing who would be happy to help. Good luck :

Edit; My bad, I didnt read the next 3 pages of this thread before posting so if I covered something that someone else posted first then I second thier motion.

 

[Mettler]

Head gasket. Your truck has 2 catyletic converters. On average you can go to Napa and buy a generic converter for about 100 bucks. I would keep them on the truck. Not only for the fact that it keeps the air clean, but back pressure also plays a role in how the motor runs. And in your position I would go buy your converters and take it to a cheap muffler shop where they will most likely charge you 100 for install. I say head gasket because these exploders have aluminum heads that warp and crack easily and generally just crap out fast. From what you said about it "chugging" and leaking antifreeze Id say you have a head problem.
My truck btw, has stock size tires and an A4LD and I can (on good days) do a considerable roast off without power braking on brand new level pavement. But at freeway speed the kickdown for overtaking doesn't put me in my seat either. Though I do get about 19mpg. 15 around town. It helped when I took the spare tire off the vehicle.

 

[ahodges]

however as long as its not blowing white smoke, the antifreeze is not brown, and there is no water in the oil, then the chances are its not a head gasket.
As far as the catyletic converter is concerned, those cheap ones crap out really really fast and aren't worth messing with. Also as long as the muffler is still on the truck back pressure is not a concern. Besides i've heard people completely straight pipe rangers and explorers before with no ill effect done to the engine over a period of a year of it being like that. These trucks have to much back pressure stock to breath well anyhow.

 

[deamon3]

Unfortunately I don't know any gear heads and there really are not any cheap muffler shops anywhere. Any input of the leaking coolent? Can I just add some more and it'll be ok?

 

[ahodges]

if its leaking from the front area of your engine its probably the water pump. If its anywhere else, could be a hose or something with the heater system. Find out where it looks like its coming from by tracing the line of coolent back up to the source from the ground.. If the head gasket was bad most of the time it wouldn't leak externally it would just leak into one of the cylinders, which is worse.

Look in the resevor with the engine warm and running and if there are bubbles coming in then its the head gasket and its serious. Otherwise just add coolent and it will be fine for a while.

It could be the radiator (not likely), the water pump (more likely), or the heater blend valve (if you have one its on the top left of the engine as you're looking at it, there are small coolent lines running to it). Those are the top 3 most likely spots to be leaking.

If its the water pump, you need to replace that soon.

 

[Mettler]

however as long as its not blowing white smoke, the antifreeze is not brown, and there is no water in the oil, then the chances are its not a head gasket.
As far as the catyletic converter is concerned, those cheap ones crap out really really fast and aren't worth messing with. Also as long as the muffler is still on the truck back pressure is not a concern. Besides i've heard people completely straight pipe rangers and explorers before with no ill effect done to the engine over a period of a year of it being like that. These trucks have to much back pressure stock to breath well anyhow.

All good points.
As to the leaking coolant. Chase it down. I would first take it in to a DIY car wash and blast out the engine bay with the engine cleaner option, then follow up with straight water. Try to keep away from the alternator. Espiecially with the engine cleaner. Ive washed my engine bay countless times with no ill effects so dont worry you'll be fine. Once youve got it somewhat clean drive it home then have a gander at it to see where it may be leaking. Could be something as easy as a thermostat housing gasket. Or a leaky hose/clamp. Check around the inlets on the radiator. The end tanks on these aluminum radiators are plastic and if one is not careful when re-installing hoses the spout can break or crack then you'll never get it to stop leaking unless you replace it. Im still wondering about the chugging your talking about. I have a feeling that is a huge tell tale as to whatever is going on with it. Could be a bad O2 sensor?

 

[deamon3]

Somebody told me it could be a "fuel regulator". And that gas could be going into my cylinders after I turn my card off.

I don't really know if it is or not I have no idea where or how to look for that.

 

[dean63]

Deamon,

Another thing you may want to check out is a leaking intake manifold gasket. The coolant could be getting blown all over the engine block with "blow by" depending on severity of leak, this problem would in turn create a huge vacuum problem (poor performance usually a result) that you could solve with the necessary repair. If confidence is a problem try this little trick....take digital photos of each step in dissasembly/assembly that would make it easy for you to understand each procedure. As money and time warrants, maybe purchase and old used motor, transmission, rear end or whatever from salvage yard or individual and tear it down/put it back together over and over just for a hobby, then with your increased confidence maybe tear into your daily driver!!!!

 

[Mettler]

Blow by is a term that references bad rings around the pistons. IF he has blow by it wouldnt be coolant that was leaking and it wouldnt be leaking out of the outside of the motor. Blow by is a condition in which you loose compression in the combustion chamber and it "blows by" the piston down into the lower end of the engine block. Many times you would get oil up on top of the piston that could possibly foul the spark plugs, and soak the throttle body in oil via the crank case re-breather tube.
I wouldnt recemend that this guy who builds computers, go buy a junked out motor and trans just to practice on. If anything, get a manual on your truck and read it in your spare time. A Chiltons is a great resource with decent pictures and detailed explanations. Between that and this forum he should have no problems. Dont be afraid to buy tools. Spindle socket is a handy dandy time saver. 2 3/8", 16 bucks at Schucks. Aside from that a basic set of tools should get you through anything you need to do. Im sticking with a bad O2 sensor for your chugg problem. Clean your throttle body and maf. If you have a vacume leak you would here it while running, with your head under the hood. I think Ive rambled long enough.

 

[shaggymane]

This.........is an interesting thread. 4 pages and no ones asked for codes.

Do all these Gen 1's have tachs in them? If so, what rpm are you at when there's no power for merging?
I can duplicate that sound yours makes (going over rumble strips) by getting in 5th gear at 15-20mph and flooring it.
Don't know how yours would do it but I wonder if it's not downshifting. That'd be a new one.

btw mine gets 21.5 or 23mpg running at 75 +/- 5mph. I'm running some fat 265's and on that trip the tire pressure was 20lbs. Should checked before i went not after.
15mpg for short in town cold trips

Like folks have been saying, finding a water leak is eyeballing everything.
Start with simple things like try tightening all hose clamps. They to get loose over time. And it will make you smile if something so simple turns out to be the problem. There's no small hose going to the bottom of the radiator unless some one left a hose on the drain petcock.

deamon3, I learned to work on cars between 1968-70. And I didn't keep up with the evolution of auto tech'ing. I like things I can see. All this electronic stuff was unknown greek to me at first. And kinda frustrating too. Didn't even know what a maf was till i got this navajo. But I learned how to pull codes, use a DVOM. Test the ohms and voltage of sensors. So can you. It's not as hard as I thought it was at the start.
I learned you have to get good readings and just because you get a Maf code doesn't mean you go out and buy one. You test it and if it's in spec you look for what's causing the Maf code.

But being able to test these things for a good running vehicle actually makes diagnosing probs easier. It's worth learning.

Example: Mine started running rough. Got a code for ignition pick-up. A plug was fouled. new plugs and wires, mpg went up. Stock muffler blew out, with the hole, mpg went up. Replaced it with a 20$ Cherry Bomb *turbo* muffler. (only lasted a yr)
Another time, running rough, 8mpg, Bad fuel press reg putting out 90Lbs instead of 35lbs. Replaced that, MPG went up.
They can get good gas mileage and have power.


As an after thought if we were in the same town I'd be willing to have a look at your 'card' if you'd help me do some house cleaning on this computer.
Then I had a thought if no one here lives close to you maybe you could find someone in the barter section of Craigs list, do little swapping. just a thought.

 

[dean63]

Mettler,

Correct you are on the "blow by" terminology, my mistake! I was thinking out loud on a different topic. Loss of compression will affect his power/mileage I can only assume that a compression check has been ran? Doing a ring job would be a major undertaking! The coolant leak could be anything from a bad thermostat housing gasket to an intake gasket to a damaged hose...it's one of those spend a day and chase it down. Amazing how a pin hole on a radiator hose can expand when it gets warm and spray all over. Coolant Dye kits are usually user friendly and inexpensive....may help? I've found that Chiltons and/or Haynes have a tendency to "miss informational things", Deamon you being a computer guy, you may find that subscribing to a sight like Alldata or Mitchells may help you in the long run......very inexpensive and informative!

 

[dean63]

Shaggymane,

Very good point! Just because the CEL light isn't lit doesn't mean there isn't a code. Excellent advice on the "test the sensor" before replacing it, I used to have that nasty habit. Since then my trusty digital multi ranging multimeter has saved me hundreds of dollars!

 

[rhauf]

just skimmed through this so if it's been mentioned already please ignore this.

but it is very common that the throttle cable gets stretched out (or is out of adjustment) and isn't opening the throttle body all the way. this would be the first thing I'd check.

under full throttle acceleration, what RPM does it shift at?

have you checked for clogged cats/exhaust?

and exactly how slow is it, could you time a 0-60 for us?

for reference, my first gen X feels reasonably fast, shifts around 4500 RPM, no CEL, and has 205k on it. so i dont think your's is worn out, its just a bug you've gotta sort out. (or else you're speed expectations for it are too high)

 

[deamon3]

Well as I was driving today I notice the vibration or "rumble strip noise" my cars make only happens when I go straight or turn left at higher speeds. However if I turn right it goes away and at low speeds I guess it's going to slow to hear it. The place that changed my tires said I had a bad bearing but there wasn't anything I could do about so I just left it alone. Looks like it caught up with me.

As for the coolent leak I still have no idea I gotta wait for my car to cool down so I don burn myself on the engine or something.

rhauf

From what I notice it shift gears just above 2000 rpm's. It goes from zero to sixty in 24 seconds. I don't really know how to check a cat. And my speed expectations aren't to high. I was driving a moving van not to long ago that was considerably faster. A moving van . . . It even had stuff in it.

 

[deamon3]

@ shaggymane

To bad we don live in the same town cuz I would gladly trade computer work for car work.

 

[ahodges]

ok.. wow, if that thing is shifting at 2000 rpm's floored, then thats the problem. It should honestly shift no sooner than 4500 rpms. and there is no way it should take that long to get to 60, most semi's loaded can do it at least that fast...

Man, like i said before.. I think its your catalytic converter being plunged... seriously just cut it off, it won't hurt anything and it will give you better gas mileage.

Its either that or the throttle plate is opening all the way but with the chugging complaint its not the throttle plate problem unless there are 2 problems causing the slowness.

 

[dean63]

Deamon,

If memory serves me I have heard of people lightly tapping on the Cat Converter with a hammer and listening for a hollow sound which would mean that a lot of the internal components on your Cat have been eaten up with corrosion.

 

[shaggymane]

From this thread - at the bottom- guy suggest a vac gauge will tell if the exhaust system is clogged. How? Low vac = clogged exhaust?


http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195182&highlight=94+abs+codes

 

[kifferarri]

From this thread - at the bottom- guy suggest a vac gauge will tell if the exhaust system is clogged. How? Low vac = clogged exhaust?


http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195182&highlight=94+abs+codes

an engine is basicly an air pump... air goes in, air comes out... if something is clogged at the back, air wont go thro, so it cant suck any air in (low vac). its not the best way to tell, but it can be a starting point.

as for the running problem, being a mechanic, i can tell you it can be VERY hard to help someone/tell them what is wrong thro the phone, nevermind on the internet. most of the time, you have to see/hear it. so please, bear with us as we try to get ya sorted out.

 

[deamon3]

I also just zero to sixty that old cargo van and it does it in 12 seconds. Course it was empty though.

Idk I talked to my mom and she says were gonna take it to a mechanic to have the ex looked at. Hopefully they can figure this thing out.