Odd Smell

[Jminor]

The A/C on my X doesn't work, in fact right now it's not even hooked up. I bypassed the pully by getting a belt for a non AC X and everything was fine for the winter. Now that it's getting warm again I want to fix the AC but I think it has a leak somewhere in the system. The line that runs along the drivers side of the engine compartment, the rubber then metal then rubber, seems like it may be leaking a little. I can't find an actual leak but I can smell fluid of somekind burning when the engine is warm. The hose I mentioned before is pretty rusty on the metal and it's original 124000 miles. My question is how hard is it to replace the AC system on this truck and update it to R134? I am confident that I can handle it but I figured I would ask around to see if there are any special tools I would need. Before you ask it's a 92 xlt 4X4, all of the other fluids have been changed and my engine compartment is clean.

Also what could that smell be, and is it harmful or can I get away with driving around like this for another couple of weeks.

 

[IZwack]

wompers:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158183&highlight=R134

in addition, this thread is a good one - tho the link the GLUE.UMD.EDU no longer works:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77331&highlight=R134

Note: I moved your thread to Explorer Repair Tech Modifications Detailing > Under the Hood > A/C & Heater

 

[shamaal]

You asked about how difficult it is to change. Having just done, it's not very difficult, just pay attention and understand what you are doing. Read the threads and ask questions.
Regarding tools, the minimum specialty toolset is:
AC Gauges - 35USD at harbor freight
Vacuum pump - 100USD AC specialty shops , occasionally ebay
AC Connector disassembly tool - 10USD Autozone

For parts, it is recommended to replace the accumlator - 60 USD - Autozone
R12 -R134a adapter valves 5USD - Autozone
Orifice valve - 5USD - If black death encountered expect to replace compressor and condensor.
Also as long as you have the system apart, replace the O-rings. Replace any bad part - you mentioned you may have a bad hose. When you do the vacuum pull. Let stand with pump disconnected for 15 minutes (Manifold gauges valves closed). If you can't maintain a vacuum, you still have a leak.
For consumables you'll need flushing fluid, commercially available; I use isopropyl alcohol. PAG 150 oil (6-7 oz), R134a refrigerant (20-24 oz), o-rings (A/R).

Regarding any smells - I haven't smelled burning mineral oil, that's what's in your sytem now. Freon has a smell of new mown hay in the presence of an open flame. If you have an open flame under your hood, an A/C upgrade should be low on your priority list.

It's been my experience that you can buy the tools and replace every single A/C component for less than the garage will charge you for an upgrade. This is afriendly forum with a wide experience base - ask questions.
Hope this helps.

 

[Brock94]

Good advice above-- and check out the "sticky" threads. Also, if you have that much corrosion, you may want to replace all of the A/C hoses. I'm sure the salt in MA is tough on them as it is in CT. I just replaced my liquid line as PM because it was in such bad shape I didn't want to wait until it left me without A/C.

Before you do anything, look over the entire system and see if you can find any place where there is evidence of oil leaking from the system-- you may or may not find something, but if you do, it will help knowing what needs to be repaired.

 

[Jminor]

Thanks

Thanks for all of the help this forum is definetly the most helpful resource I have found since I bought my X. I plan on replacing every hose under the hood just because I can. And the new power steering lines just look so out of place being all clean and shiny with everything else looking all rusted. Does anyone know of any good companies for hoses, like the A/C hoses and lines, and better radiator hoses?? I usually get the replacement ones from Autozone but I think I wanna get some better ones this time around.

 

[shamaal]

I figured a hose is a hose and I got mine at O'Reilly. They were 130 USD and are stamped as R134a compatible. The general consensus is that installed R12 hoses are impermeable because of the mineral oil, new R12 hoses are thought to be permeable (leaky) but I don't think you can even find these anymore (perhaps dealer?).
The 10mm bolt that holds the hoses onto the compressor is torqued to 15 ft/lb +/- 2.

Good luck - ask questions