oil changing

[BrandonInIndy]

You must be one of the last persons that didn't see this video :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRRgw4B7R-I

Haven't seen that one but it explains a lot, lol. Luckily it didn't take long for me to learn to avoid them. I would have never thought a bad filter (orange frams) would cause a loud ticking, but it did.

 

[bilzy7]

So a random ticking on startup, almost like a loose chain, may be associated with the oil filter? It's like, 1 out if 10 start ups my engine will tick till it warms up. I figured it was the timing chain since 98's have that issue.

 

[rhauf]

i used synthetic (castrol syntec) until it gummed up on me in two engines....

now i have switched back to dyno. any good brand is fine.

as for weight, i have talked to many engine builders and the conclusion i have drawn, is always run the OEM called for weight, regardless of mileage.

and the use of "high mileage" oils is a short term solution for rotten seals (will help them seal temporarily, ultimately resulting in their failure) it make them puff up like a sponge absorbing water.

 

[Saik]

When I first changed my oil, it made me want to drink motor oil straight from the bottle lol. I know it sounds crazy, but when you first change your oil you get that wierd feeling in your jaw.

 

[white_shadow]

When I first changed my oil, it made me want to drink motor oil straight from the bottle lol. I know it sounds crazy, but when you first change your oil you get that wierd feeling in your jaw.

huh?

 

[FIND]

When I first changed my oil, it made me want to drink motor oil straight from the bottle lol. I know it sounds crazy, but when you first change your oil you get that wierd feeling in your jaw.

I think you are the only one bud...

as for weight, i have talked to many engine builders and the conclusion i have drawn, is always run the OEM called for weight, regardless of mileage.

and the use of "high mileage" oils is a short term solution for rotten seals (will help them seal temporarily, ultimately resulting in their failure) it make them puff up like a sponge absorbing water.

 

[BrandonInIndy]

So a random ticking on startup, almost like a loose chain, may be associated with the oil filter? It's like, 1 out if 10 start ups my engine will tick till it warms up. I figured it was the timing chain since 98's have that issue.

The ticking I was speaking of was on my wifes Cr-v and wasn't on the Mountaineer. It was a constant ticking and it went away after switching oil filters (to a different brand). For me it was ticking whenever it was running, obviously defective, got louder (or more frequent) on acceleration.

 

[bilzy7]

The ticking I was speaking of was on my wifes Cr-v and wasn't on the Mountaineer. It was a constant ticking and it went away after switching oil filters (to a different brand). For me it was ticking whenever it was running, obviously defective, got louder (or more frequent) on acceleration.

I have this problem with ticking on my ranger. It just turned out after I switched the oil, that only 3 qts drained out. So I leaked 2 qts in 5k miles on synthetic. I just started switching every 3k and switched to 10w30 and it never ticked again.

 

[BrandonInIndy]

and the use of "high mileage" oils is a short term solution for rotten seals (will help them seal temporarily, ultimately resulting in their failure) it make them puff up like a sponge absorbing water.

I bought my 2000 Silverado 5.7L six years ago that had a half quart leak per oil change (3k miles). I used the Castrol High Mileage oil in it to "seal it temporarily". It stopped the leak for six years now, truck doesn't leak a drop anywhere. I switched back to regular Castrol dyno a couple oil changes ago and the leak started again, swtich back to high mileage again, no leak. I don't think it will stop all leaks like this, this was just my experience.

On my Mountaineer and Cr-v I use them as a preventative, neither of them leaked oil and I don't want them too. I think it keeps rubber and seals lubricated and from drying out (the reason for leaks) because of the additives. I think it's like any rubber, if you don't keep it lubricated it will start to rot eventually. I don't think all leaks are rotten or ruined seals, many have just lost enough of their moisture to start leaking.

 

[Saik]

Here's a proven tip. Never use 10w30 in a 5w30 engine. I did it and had a very rough startup and idle.

To make sure it was the oil that caused the rough startup, I changed my oil again today.

Purchased some 10w30 SAE from Peak. And 5 quarts of Mobile 1 5w30 synthetic.

Ran the 10w30 and had extremely rough idle, so i bottled it all back up and put it in my old Mazda. Put in the 5w30, and my Explorer ran like a dream! Startup sounded perfect no pinging, rough idle, or anything of the sort.

 

[bram.vir]

so imma go for the 5w30. and a wix or mobil1 filter. i get paid this weekend so ill put some money on the my X. thank you all guys.

very weird saik.

 

[bram.vir]

hey guys. i already did they oil change and it went great. i bought a quaker state 10w30 and a k&n oil filter.

i got so suprised about the big change on the performance of my X. it feels great. the old oil was veeery black.

thank you all for your responses.

 

[SoNic67]

You didn't go for 5W30 because??? The 10W might "work" in summer, but the 5W is better any time because at start-up period, engine is "cold".

 

[bilzy7]

Ya i only went to 10w30 at 220k miles on my ranger and it stopped ticking, but that was at 220k. I would always say go with what it normally takes unless you've used the stock type with no success after a couple oil changes.

 

[00meangreenXLT]

When I first changed my oil, it made me want to drink motor oil straight from the bottle lol. I know it sounds crazy, but when you first change your oil you get that wierd feeling in your jaw.

...I use mobil 1 5w-30 high milage with a mobil 1 filter