Yes... I had it towed home. Started with no problem... gauge jumped and died... engine rattled.
Hey Cwgrl
was there any rattle to the engine before this problem that would point to chain guide faliure. The reason i ask this is that the plastic guides can fail and the bits can drop into the pan and then get sucked into the oil pick up and block the screen filter thus preventing oil getting thro.
On my uk spec SOHC you can drop the lower pan easy enough with only a couple of bolts a pig to get to.
The good news is this means you can drop the pan and make sure the pick up is clear and check for plastic and possibly small metal leaf springs from the primary tensioner or if 4x4, the balance shaft tensioner.
The bad news is that if the pick up is not blocked then some where else in the engine has a blocked oil port.
When my rear cam chain guide broke i lost oil pressure at idle.
On two engines i also found tiny bits of plastic grit in the oil pump with very worn pump piston.
More bad news is that to get to the oil pump you need to remove the upper sump (ladder rack) which ideally needs the motor pulling to do as on refitting the alignment of the ladder rack with the rear face of the block is critical. Some people on this forum have managed to do it by dropping the front axle tho.
To test the oil pump you can access the oil pump drive shaft from the top of the engine. Remove the intakes and loom and crank case breather and at the rear of the valley you will see a disc held down with a clamp. You can remove the clamp and prise the dics up. It will come out with some persuasion as a 4" shaft with a drive gear on it.
With that out you can put a suitably sized (E12 IIRC) torx socket attached to a drill on the end of the oil pump drive shaft. With the filter removed and the pick up in a bath of oil you can check the performance.
This is a lot of hassle and you won't really get an idea of oil pressure!! but it may tell you the drive shaft is in one piece and the pump is working in a fashion.
keep us updated.