opinions on.... BOOM!! | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

opinions on.... BOOM!!

Also I don't know if anyone has noticed or not.. but amps have capacitors built in (though not as large) for that task, filter the power a bit. Also a 1 farad cap can power a small led (which is like 0.0## watts?) for about 35 seconds...
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





He's saying that a CAP is a "bandaid" because if you "need" one, it basically means that your electrical system cannot handle the load of the subs/amp. In the long run you would be better off upgrading wires, alternator, or going dual battery.

btw, a cap doesn't "limit power" it stores a charge so when the subs hit, it is less of a shock on your alternator and battery, which should be upgraded if they cannot handle the load, bringing you back to the "bandaid" comment.

a cap does limit power if you have the correct cap the cap will not allow so much power to a certain point.. its kinda like a rev lim.
and its always good to have a cap. even if you spend 500 on a alternator if you don't have a cap the alternator after time will die. the cap just saves your ass. and dual batts for that system really isnt needed..
hell ill put two 1 farad caps in and show you that it saves alot of duty for the alternator..
 






back to the main point.. is it working yet? any luck?
 






A capacitor does not have the "brains" to limit power. It does nothing more than store electrons for a time when they are needed, and the amount it stores based on it's size. It may help condition the line so there isn't as much strain on the system by pulling from this store when the system really needs it, but it's not really helping too much if the electrical system isn't up to par. If the current going to a cap isn't enough then it's not really going to do anything. If the system is efficient enough to run and amp "properly" it's just another $100 you didn't need to spend. If you do the research you'll find that the alternator must have at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and sound system combined for a capacitor to be of benefit which is ironically the same requirements for an amp to be efficient.

But anyway, back on topic. Have you gotten any further into this?
 






a cap does limit power if you have the correct cap the cap will not allow so much power to a certain point.. its kinda like a rev lim.
and its always good to have a cap. even if you spend 500 on a alternator if you don't have a cap the alternator after time will die. the cap just saves your ass. and dual batts for that system really isnt needed..
hell ill put two 1 farad caps in and show you that it saves alot of duty for the alternator..

seems like you do not know what a capacitor really does.

A cap is a power conditioner...usually to control voltage spikes and dips of around .1 volts.

A cap will NOT save your alternator from failing.

A cap is a band-aid for a bullet wound...a very poor band-aid.

Telling someone to go ahead and buy a cap is a poor response. Yes a cap will do something IF the electrical system is already beefed up. But adding a capacitor to an already weak electrical system will only speed up the death of the alternator. It will only be another load for the alternator.
 






i pretty much 2nd aznboi there...
 












A larger High Output alternator is always better than adding a second battery to a weak electrical system. After upgrading the alternator then I would add a second battery
 






In my experience...whatever gauge power wire u have...u must go the next size up for the ground. This has happened to me plenty of times with explode amps (used to sell them). And also make sure the ground is clean...don't just scrape the paint with a screwdriver, use a Dremel or a grind wheel, or even some sand paper and get it shiny clean. Then slap some Dielectric (tune up) grease on it so it won't corrode nearly as fast. Even better, get under the truck where the ground bolt or screw goes through and paint on a few coats of liquid electric tape.:D:thumbsup: good luck. OH and I almost forgot. DO NOT GO BELOW 4ohms on any Explode amp, I don't care what the box, manual, or even the amp case itself says.:nono:
 






Or take it the extra mile, run a ground and positive lead from the battery :d
 






im running true 4 gauge power and ground. I grinded my spot for my ground and welded it to the body. As of right now im running a single type-r for temporary use and it sounds alot clearer hits the heII out of the lows and doesnt hit the highs very well tho.
 






Back
Top