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orange spots all over

A couple of visits to the dealer later and the explorer looks as good as new. No charge to me.

Thanks for everyone's feedback and advice.
 



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Well...it finally got around to cleaning the Explorer
- 3 Car washes
- 2 clay bars
- 1 wax

Finally done...all in all ~14 hours over the weekend...but it is in showroom condition! I'll post some pictures later tonight.

Question...I noticed those "orange spots" are all over the plastic pieces too. Does anyone recommend something to clean them off of here? I was thinking a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser...but wasn't sure as to the damage that can potentially be done.

I am also looking for a nice plastic cleaner/brigntner to bring out that deep black colour of the plastic trim pieces. Anyone have recommendations?

Thanks!
Matt
 






Well...it finally got around to cleaning the Explorer
- 3 Car washes
- 2 clay bars
- 1 wax

Finally done...all in all ~14 hours over the weekend...but it is in showroom condition! I'll post some pictures later tonight.

Question...I noticed those "orange spots" are all over the plastic pieces too. Does anyone recommend something to clean them off of here? I was thinking a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser...but wasn't sure as to the damage that can potentially be done.

I am also looking for a nice plastic cleaner/brigntner to bring out that deep black colour of the plastic trim pieces. Anyone have recommendations?

Thanks!
Matt
I did a quick wash on mine last week and noticed a few of those orange spots on the body as well. Removed them all easily with my finger nail. As for the treatment for the black plastic, there is are posts on that somewhere with a few recommended products.
Here are two I found;
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379140&highlight=wash

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=344266&highlight=wash

Peter
 






Thanks for the links Peter! Much appreciated it.
 






Here is an absolutely fabulous product to wash your vehicle with prior to putting a sealant or wax on.

http://www.carpro-us.com/iron-x-500ml/vehicle-decontamination/

I use this on my white platinum Edge and Explorer and the paint is extremely clean and ready for which ever long term protection you choose to put over it.
 






+1 IronX Edgieguy. That stuff works great for loosening/dissolving the "rail dust". Smells really bad though! Follow up with clay bar and wax and vehicle will look good as new.
 






Orange paint contamination fully explained

TSB 04-9-6 discusses properly neutralizing the surface of specified Ford models.
This procedure is still in use today and is part of the labeling on Motorcraft Detail Wash.

The orange spots are "normal" but should be cleaned off in such a way as to neutralize the surface of the paint.

(this text came from a PDF via Adobe software, which may have left some letters out here and there, or some words will appear incomplete.)

BODY-PAlNT-IRON PARTICLE REMOVALINDUSTRIAL
FALLOUT-ACID RAIN
NEUTRALIZATION
Article No.
04·9·6

FORD: 2004-2005 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT ZX2, FOCUS, MUSTANG, TAURUS,
THUNDERBIRD
2005 FIVE HUNDRED, FORD GT
2004-2005 ECONOLlNE, ESCAPE, EXCURSION, EXPEDITION,
EXPLORER SPORT TRAC, EXPLORER, F SUPER DUTY, FREESTAR,
.RANGER, F SERIES, F-650, F-750 .

LINCOLN: 2004-2005 LS, TOWN CAR, AVIATOR, NAVIGATOR
MERCURY: 2004-2005 GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE
2005 MONTEGO

2004-2005 MONTEREY, MOUNTAINEER
2005 MARINER

This article supersedes TSB 99-12-10 to update the
vehicle lines, model years and service procedure.

ISSUE
Ford Motor Company has released a private labeled
material to be used for iron particle/acid rain service
r"> repairs.

ACTION
To remove these particles/contaminates, use ONLY
the following Motorcraft products and procedure. No
poiishing, compounding, color sanding, or repainting
should be done before this procedure is performed.
This procedure uses products that are acidic,
alkaline, and neutral and must be property mixed
and used in their specific order. Refer to the
following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
NOTE
ANY CHANGES TO THIS PROCEDURE WILL
CAUSE AN INCOMPLETE OR UNSATISFACTORY
REPAIR. THE USE OF ANY OTHER PRODUCT
OR PROCEDURE MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO
ALUMINUM OR PAINTED SURFACES.
~
THE PRODUCTS USED TO REMOVE SURFACE
CONTAMINATION FROM PAINT ARE DESIGNED
FOR VEHICLES, WHICH HAVE EXPERIENCED
EXPOSURE FOR LESS THAN 120 DAYS.
VEHICLES THAT EXCEED 120 DAYS OF
EXPOSURE MAY REQUIRE THE PROCEDURE
BE REPEATED TO RESOLVE THE CONCERN.
ONCE THIS PROCEDURE IS COMPLETED, IT
MAY BE NECESSARY TO PERFORM POLISHING
OR REFINISHING PROCEDURES AFTER
VEHICLE INSPECTION.

IDENTIFICATION
Ferrous metal particles (hot iron dust) are generated
by manufacturing facilities, rail shipments, etc.
Moisture and heat combine with particles to create
a chemical reaction. This reaction creates an acid,
causing the iron to corrode and etch into the paint
surface. Additionally, industrial fallout and acid rain
generate corrosive compounds that fall on the
vehicle's painted surfaces. When subjected to
moisture and temperature, chemical compounds are
created that etch the paint surface. To assist in
identifying surface contamination, use a
(Tandy-Radio Shack #63-851) 30x iighted magnifier.
NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins Is intended for use by trained, ~rofessional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to dothe job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-n-youreeltere".

Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to yourvehide. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article.The information in this Technical Service BUlletin
(TSB) was current at the time of printing.

Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this infonnation with updates.The most recent lnfonnation is
available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.
Copyright © 2004 Ford Motor Company
064798

PAGE 25
IArticle No. 04-9-6 Cont'd.
CONCERN DESCRIPTION
Ferrous Metal
Light Colored Vehicles: Small orange stains the
size of "mechanical pencil lead." The surface is
rough to the touch.

Dark Colored Vehicles: Small white or silver
appearing dots with a rainbow ring around the
dot. The surface is rough to the touch.
Industrial Fallout
• Water spots containing ferrous metal are present
and the surface is rough to the touch.
Acid Rain/Etching
Surface will exhibit irregular discolored spotting.
Dark colored vehicles may exhibit cloudy or
graying spots where the acid has begun to etch
the paint.
Extreme cases of etching may be felt.

DECONTAMINATION PROCEDURE
Use Motorcraft Acid Neutralizer, Alkaline Neutralizer,
and Detail Wash to decontaminate and neutralize
the paint surface. Perform the procedure only on
vehicle when the paint surface temperature is cool.
Follow the step-by-step procedure listed below to
perform this service operation.

1. Rinse off dust, dirt, and debris with cold water.
Flush liberally.
2. Prepare Motorcraft Acid Neutralizer by mixing
eight (8) parts of water to one (1) part Acid
Neutralizer in a bucket. .
3. Wear gloves and use a clean wash mitt to
apply mixture of Motorcraft Acid Neutralizer to
the entire vehicle starting at the top of the
vehicle working toward the side. Work fast and
keep the vehicle wet with solution, lightly
agitating and moving quickly around the vehicle
repeatedly for five to seven (5-7) minutes. For
vehicles with severe conditions, work the
product for up to eight (8) minutes.
NOTE
USE A SEPARATE MITT FOR EACH PRODUCT.
DO NOT INTERMIX MITTS.
4. Rinse the vehicle thoroughly with cold water to
remove Motorcraft Acid Neutralizer.
5. Dry only the horizontal surfaces of the vehicle
at this time. Do not dry glass.
PAGE 26
NOTE
MOTORCRAFT ALKALINE NIEUTRALIZERIS
READY TO USE. DO NOT MIX WITH WATER. DO
NOT SPRAY MOTORCRAFT ALKALINE
NEUTRALIZER ON THE PAINTED SURFACE.
6. Pour the Alkaline Neutralizer into a dispenser
(squirt bottle). Squirt the neutralizer directly onto
a clean wash mitt. Apply the product to the
vehicle, keeping the areas wet and lightly
agitated for five to seven (5-7) minutes. For
vehicles with severe conditions, work the
product for up to eight (8) minutes.
7. Rinse the vehicle thoroughly with cold water.
8. Prepare Motorcraft Detail Wash by mixing 29.5
mL (1 ounce) of Detail Wash to 3.7 L (1 gallon)
of water.
9. Shampoo the vehicle with Motorcraft Detail
Wash using a clean wash mitt. Rinse the
vehicle with cold water and dry the vehicle
completely.
SURFACE CORRECTION FOLLOWING
DECONTAMINATlON/NEUTRALIZATION
1. Visually inspect paint surface for evidence of
removal of ferrous metal particles and water
spots.
NOTE
ACiiJ'RAIN DISCOLORING OR ETCHING WILL
REQUIRE ADDITIONAL PROCEDURES
DEPENDENT ON DEPTH OF DAMAGE;
POLISHING, BUFFING, COLOR SANDING, OR IN
EXTREME CASES, REFINISHING.
2. DO NOT intermix buffing products. Use only
one manufacturer's products.
3. Always follow the manufacturer's product usage
sequence. Use the appropriate recommended
pad at recommended buffing speeds as
specified by the product manufacturer.
NOTE
WHEN ATTEMPTING TO AFFECT A REPAIR BY
BUFFING, POLISHING, OR COLOR SANDING, DO
NOT REMOVE AN EXCESS OF 0.3 MIL OF
PAINT FILM OR REFINISHING WILL BE
REQUIRED. USE OF AN ELIECTRONIC MIL
GAUGE (ROTUNDA 164-R4025) IS HIGHLY
RECOMMENDED TO INSURIE CONTROL OF .:»
PAINT FILM REMOVAL.
-
-
4. Use a dual action sander with a Velcro backing
plate and foam pad to fine polish and remove
any swirls created by a rotary buffer or pad.
5. Use an alcohol and water mixture (1 to 1 ratio)
to clean the buffed areas and to verify removal
of scratches and swirls before application of the
final polish.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
ZC-1-A Motorcraft Acid Neutralizer
ZC-2-A Motorcraft Alkaline Neutralizer
ZC-3-A Motorcraft Detail Wash
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of
New Vehicle Limited
Warranty Coverage
Article No. 04·9·6 Cont'd. I
PAGE 27
 






That is quite a procedure that is posted above. I just easily removed the orange spots with my fingernail. Of course there weren't that many to start with but it was the first time in 2 years that I noticed them.

Peter
 






Does the touchless car wash really use 'wax' ?

Yeah it looks like quite a workout.
But new car paint/clearcoat/wax is a living breathing thing, it can be kept pretty shiny by taking care of it.

Keeping the 3 chemical neutralizing bath in mind, just what is the car wash doing?
Exterior Wash
Sealer Wax
Under Carriage Wash
$10.00
$3.00
$3.00

Every menu item has the sealer wax. But when the car rolls out the guys just dry it off. Are they buffing wax?

I am always wondering,
$16 and im thru, but am I sealing in / waxing over an acidic layer of crud and keeping it on the car longer and longer under wax?

In my old car last summer, I once parked between 2 telephone poles.
All the other spots were filled, and this part - 5 cars long, between the poles, was empty. Great! I pulled in and parked.

I returned 4 hours later and there was so much bird sh*t on the car, I didnt recognize it. I actually stopped walking and looked around for my car for a few seconds, before realizing what happened.
...It looked like a pie fight had just happened...

In this case, I think the 3 step bath is the way to go, but in general likely its best to do the 3 step once a season...
-all steps at the self service bay,
then when done run through the touchless...
then wax as described in the manual.
 






I just noticed this issue on the tailgate of my '13 tuxedo black explorer. I've never seen it before now. I'm glad this is all it is vs defective paint. While I'd love to get out there with a clay bar and elbow grease, we're in the throws of winter here and I don't have a warm place to wash the car. I think that I'll see what the service dept. says when I bring it in for inspection. Fingers crossed they will just handle it for me and I can pick up maintenance in the future.
 






I have the same problem with my white paint... Canadian winter. I wish I had glorious positive experiences to post about my Explorer but so far I am quite annoyed and this cosmetic mess doesn't help.
 












I've had my car 2 years and this winter is the first time I had the issue. I've owned a lot of cars and have never seen this problem on any of them. Dealership told me it was "road debris" and that I would just need to wash and wax my car (gee - thanks). So, I spent $20 on a clay bar kit and after an hour my car was clean and it was a lot of elbow grease with the clay bar on the back of my car to get off the "road debris".
 






I believe the issue we are having is caused by brake dust. I did an Internet search on" brake dust and orange spots" and found several posts on it. My 2011 Explorer had the Platinum tri-coat white paint. I inspected it carefully when I picked it up and there were no spots to be seen. However, 2 years later I did notice some and easily removed them. This is a condition that can easily reoccur.

Peter
 






I have the same problem with my white paint... Canadian winter... I am quite annoyed and this cosmetic mess doesn't help.

Thank you for reaching out, Jman13. Have you contacted your dealer? What's the odometer reading? Please send it over; I'll see how to help.

Kwasi
 






Thank you for reaching out, Jman13. Have you contacted your dealer? What's the odometer reading? Please send it over; I'll see how to help.

Kwasi

Thanks Kwasi, no I haven't had the dealer look at it yet. Actually my power lift gate isn't working so I need to take it in for that too.

My metre is at around 42k KM at the moment. Would appreciate any recommended way forward for me to deal with this, thanks!
 






A Clay bar is now the old school way to get rid of this. Its very common, white just shows it the most. Its iron particles embedded in the paint. Its most common in vehicles shipped to their destination by rail, which is why "rail dust" is mentioned most often, but can be caused by any iron deposits. Brake dust, pollution etc.

The new trick is a product called IronX by CarPro. It is a liquid that you spray on your car, wait for a few min and it will turn purple. It will dissolve the iron out of your paint. Its said to be gentle on the paint, just don't spray your calipers or anything like that.

You can also get TriX, which combines a Tar remover and an iron remover. This is what I use. It smells like hair dye, but works like nothing I've ever seen. I even had rust stains on concrete that I couldn't get out by leaving CLR on them for 10 min. Sprayed this on, waited about 1 min and it turned dark purple, rinsed off and it was gone.

You won't find this stuff at any box stores, but its readily available online. Its more of a Professional Detailer product. I believe there are now a few other options on the market, but this is the only one I know by name.
 






A Clay bar is now the old school way to get rid of this. Its very common, white just shows it the most. Its iron particles embedded in the paint. Its most common in vehicles shipped to their destination by rail, which is why "rail dust" is mentioned most often, but can be caused by any iron deposits. Brake dust, pollution etc.

The new trick is a product called IronX by CarPro. It is a liquid that you spray on your car, wait for a few min and it will turn purple. It will dissolve the iron out of your paint. Its said to be gentle on the paint, just don't spray your calipers or anything like that.

You can also get TriX, which combines a Tar remover and an iron remover. This is what I use. It smells like hair dye, but works like nothing I've ever seen. I even had rust stains on concrete that I couldn't get out by leaving CLR on them for 10 min. Sprayed this on, waited about 1 min and it turned dark purple, rinsed off and it was gone.

You won't find this stuff at any box stores, but its readily available online. Its more of a Professional Detailer product. I believe there are now a few other options on the market, but this is the only one I know by name.

Great advice, thank you!
 






I have a 2012 explorer in the pearl white, noticed this year that after I washed it the whole rear of the car is covered in small orange spots. Didn’t notice it last year but I know the city did start using a different ice clearance chemical this year so thinking that may have triggered something.

Wondering what’s the best way to clean it off without damaging the paint work, I did see a local retailer recommend IronX but wanted some input for here

Thanks
Shane
 



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Try a clay bar.
If the spots are contaminants on the surface, the clay bar should help pull them from the paint.
Don't forget to wax it after because the clay bar will strip most of the wax.
 






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