Paint prep question

Based on a suggestion from my friend, Monmis, I plan to painr ( flat black ) the header strip [ the painted strip below the headlight ] to match the air dam and for light surround.

My question to the paint gurus is what is the best way to prep the factory painted header strip to be painted?

 

[dreamr]

I have been contemplating that exact idea for a couple weeks. Post up some after pics to help me decide

 

[unclemeat]

If it is metal, sand down to primer, blow it clean with copressed air, clean with a tack cloth.

 

[aldive]

It all done now.

I sanded the header, wiped with acetone, masked, primed, and painted.

 

[dreamr]

looks good

 

[MONMIX]

It all done now.

I sanded the header, wiped with acetone, masked, primed, and painted.

Exactally right Al.

Results are way sweet too.

Looks like you have one of those ugly bra's with out having a ugly bra.

( people please !!!!!!!! I am talking about the truck !!!!!!!! )

 

[Critical_Level2]

looks good. I like how it all matches now.

 

[98XMAN]

not really he still has one more of those ugly chrome things to paint.

 

[aldive]

The painting is completed; just waiting for help to reinstall the bumper. Plan is to do it tomorrow.

Pictures will follow.

 

[Glacier991]

Just a word of note. You do not need to sand down to primer coat to repaint. The newer paints adhere well to a nicely prepared "substrate" which includes a smooth sanded paint coat of most paints you will find on a car. The paint used will dictate only rarely, most will adhere as noted above.

If you are using high quality auto paint, their tech sheets will tell you what they will go on over acceptably. As for auto paint versus rattle can.... years ago I did a metal door frame in auto paint (catalyzed acrylic urethane to be exact). The owner later added a new grille with inserts to it....

2 weekends ago I sandblasted it to repaint because the grille portion added on had rusted. The grille cleaned up pretty easily with the sandblasted, remaining paint melted away instantly... the auto paint was damn near impossible to remove (while I didn't try too hard except out of curiosity around some bolts that had rusted- but in those areas I did try.) In short... high priced auto paint is a worthy investment. The newer stuff is TOUGH.

(For those curious the paint was PPG DCC Acrylic Urethane using DX Hardener)

 

[TJM623]

i'm a fan of that chrome, but your truck your ideas looks like a nice paint job!

 

[aldive]

Just a word of note. You do not need to sand down to primer coat to repaint. The newer paints adhere well to a nicely prepared "substrate" which includes a smooth sanded paint coat of most paints you will find on a car. The paint used will dictate only rarely, most will adhere as noted above.

If you are using high quality auto paint, their tech sheets will tell you what they will go on over acceptably. As for auto paint versus rattle can.... years ago I did a metal door frame in auto paint (catalyzed acrylic urethane to be exact). The owner later added a new grille with inserts to it....

2 weekends ago I sandblasted it to repaint because the grille portion added on had rusted. The grille cleaned up pretty easily with the sandblasted, remaining paint melted away instantly... the auto paint was damn near impossible to remove (while I didn't try too hard except out of curiosity around some bolts that had rusted- but in those areas I did try.) In short... high priced auto paint is a worthy investment. The newer stuff is TOUGH.

(For those curious the paint was PPG DCC Acrylic Urethane using DX Hardener)

I was painting over the plastic chrome, not paint.