Passenger Power Window

[bhults]

Once upon a time, all my power windows and moonroof quit working... Up until that time, I had experienced intermittent problems with ONLY the pasenger side window: sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't. I had my local mechanic fix the "they all don't work" problem, and everything was fine for a little while.

Probably coincidence that the passenger side window worked for a short time after the fix, but then it quit working altogether. There was never any sign of motor failure (no weird noises, etc.). Neither the driver side switch, nor the passenger side switch, will operate that window. It's been stuck up for the better part of a year.

Soooo, what's my course of action? I've already read quite a bit on here about relays, motors, and switches. I'm just not sure what may be the culprit in my case, and do not know how the electrics are mapped out in the power window system... Anyone have a similar issue that can help?

Thanks!

Bill

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Get out a multi sensor and start tracing currents is the best way to accomplish. Start at the window motor. See if you have current and ground when operating the switch. Then move to the switch itself. If you have power at both sides of the switch (means it carries through during operation so switch is okay), but none at the motor plug then you have a broken or shorted wire somewhere which needs to be traced. There are write-ups on the site on where the wiring runs and common pinch points.

You can test the motor itself with a simple 9 volt battery and two pieces of insulated wire connected to the + and -. Touch the wires to the window motor and see if you get any movement. That isn't a lot of juice so don't expect it to move quickly, but you will definitely get movement. Reverse the wire polarity to roll back up if it does work.

 

[bhults]

Forgive the dumb question, but what's a multi-sensor? Obviously I'm aware that it's a tool I can use to find current... Is that the brand name, or just a generic name of the tool? Can I pick one up at my local autoparts store for cheap? Would probably behoove me to have one, anyhow...

 

[RomeovilleIL]

The most basic electric testor is a test light which shows only if a line has positive current, or can be used to verify a ground. A multimeter reads voltage and grounds on a digital display or physical dial. You can get a low end servicable model for about $50, but like any other tool you get what you pay for. In the case of your problem, a test light (looks like an ice pick with a cord coming out of the handle) will probably suffice since you are primarily looking to see if power is being supplied. Test lights are $5 in the helper section at most autoparts stores.

 

[bhults]

Thanks Romeoville... Looks like I have something to keep me occupied this weekend. Although it's mighty cold here in the Northeast these days...