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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
The only thing that has worked for me is professionlly de-carboning the engine. So far, after 7 months, still no ping. Apparently 4.0 engines have a hugh tendency to build carbon. A good Ford technician/mechanic will know the process. Mike
What kind of money did it cost to do the de-carbonizing? I'm beginning to wonder if it would be worth it to me. With 167.000 miles on this engine I'm not real enthusiastic on doing major (read as $$) engine repairs. I like this vehicle well enough, and it's in good enough shape that I may replace the engine when the time comes. For now I'd like to get rid of the ping and keep going.
Seems like to me it was around $175.00 but can't remember for sure. Seemed like a lot, but in comparison to the accumulated cost of all the other stuff I had tried, it was cheap in comparison. Bet I spent close to that in fuel injector cleaners over the years. The key is getting the best Ford tech at your dealership to do it. Ask which tech is the highest rated and asked for him. If he has the credentials, he will know what needs to be done. Mike
Anyone know what the de-carbing process is? Surely it would not be that hard to do. Think a person could just remove the sparks plugs and spray in some carb cleaner and let it soak awhile? I bet the first time you start the engine would be neat
OK, I can help! I had a Ford Mechanic show me what they do on a Decarb. First, buy a can of "Ford carb and choke" cleaner from the dealer ($5.00). Second, read the directions on the can. The trick is to use one of the spare vacuum lines on the intake manifold fitting and a realy small piece of tubing (w/large tube it will suck the cleaner up too fast) to introduce the cleaner to the running engine.
A little more detail (directions on the can):
1.heat up engine
2.suck in cleaner through vacuum fitting until engine stalls (run engine a little higher than idle)
3. let sit for 15-20 minutes will cleaner soaks in
4. restart engine without cleaner
5. slowly introduce the rest of the contents into the engine w/o stalling ( small tune diameter prevents it from stalling)
6. done
Just read the directions on the can and you should be OK.:redexp:
Believe the procedure used in my particular case was different or in addition to the procedure discribed above. My spark plugs were removed. Perhaps solution was sprayed into each chamber and allowed to stand for a while. I do remember them running a solution through the engine. I thought they were cleaning the injectors also. Wished I could be of more help, but I am not a knowledgeable technician. Just paid the bill and whatever they did is still working. Again, I recommend using a highly qualified Ford technician who knows what he/she is doing. Mike
Acually, now that I think about it, that is the same exact thing that my local mechanic told me he does to clean an engine thoroughly. Except he used something other than the Ford de-carb stuff.
That process sounds exactly like Amsoil's Powerfoam, only PF is $5 a can. Try that first and clean the MAF and reset battery. I have to replace my lower intake gasket (damn damn) and am avoiding it. I did retorque awhile ago but still using a little oil.
That's funny you mentioned Amsoil'd FOAM cleaner just as i read all these posts! Being the Amsoil Sponsor for Explorer forum, if you order a case of oil through me (or become a dealer/perf-customer) I will send you a free can of either the FOAM spray or the PI injector cleaner which is my favorite product. One bottle treats 160 gallons of gas and reduces emmissions 80%. 10 X the value of RXP.
Just mention this post so I know what this is about.
CC
I have a 2001 sport and it pings terribly.After trying all the basic stuff to stop it I took it to the dealer and they said nothing showed up on the computer.My brother in law suggested that I change the temperature sending unit.There are two of them.One for the computer and one for the gauge.It is a pain in the butt to get to mine on the 2001 Sport.Also a few times my engine would cut off right after I started it and would only run if I held down the accelerator.He said the computer was probably getting the wrong temperature from the sensor and it is the cause of both problems.Im going to replace it tommorrow(8-20)and Ill let you guys know what happens.
Being the Amsoil Sponsor for Explorer forum, if you order a case of oil through me (or become a dealer/perf-customer) I will send you a free can of either the FOAM spray or
You are pretty new here. AGExplorer (Gary Goesseler) used to be the only AMSOIL dealer here. hehe. Now we got 2 of em!! Good to see you here, AMSOIL sells good stuff. I use the PI performance improver myself. That reminds me, I'll add some when I get this tank down some.
If carbon buildup is the culprit of these problems, then your compression is too high, so running premium gas WOULD alleviate the problem.
And de-carbing an engine like that sends chills through my spine. Imagine all that gunk scraping your cylinder walls and O2's, and going through your cats...
Imagine all that gunk scraping your cylinder walls and O2's, and going through your cats... 
