Pioneer DEH-P4000UB question | Ford Explorer Forums

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Pioneer DEH-P4000UB question

lycan91

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City, State
Yreka CA population 7,500 just shy of oregon border
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 XLT
I have the DEH-P4000UB unit in my Eclipse but I am planning on selling the car. I want to install it in the 96 Explorer do I need a adapter kit?
 



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I imagine you'll just need a new harness and dash kit... I mean, there's a chance that your current dash kit could fit, but that's a longshot.. Definitely a new harness tho unless you wanna cut and splice wires..
 






Thanks for your reply it seems reply's on here are few and far between. I think I found all I need at Walmart today. But thank you I think i will get the new harness. Also how hard is it to run a power supply for a amp through the fire wall is there a easy area to go through?
 






Thanks for your reply it seems reply's on here are few and far between. I think I found all I need at Walmart today. But thank you I think i will get the new harness. Also how hard is it to run a power supply for a amp through the fire wall is there a easy area to go through?

No prob. Just kno that you can get this stuff on ebay cheap.. I got my harness for $6.99 total, and the dash kit was like $15.. Funny you ask about the amp, cuz I just put a little system in my 97 XLT.. I did the deck myself, which was pretty easy.. The only thing is, if you have a stock amp in there (which alot do), it gets a little complicated.. You have to either connect the 2 wires for the stock amp on the harness, and use it WITH the new deck, although it's not ideal.. The best bet is getting the stock amp bypass cable (also on ebay for $10), and doing that so you use JUST the new deck..

That's IF you have the stock amp tho, which I'm unsure of.. So anyways after that, I decided to add an amp/sub I got, and I got the amp wiring kit for $25 (ebay, lol).. I planned on doing it myself, but having never done an amp install, I decided to just bring it somewhere.. It cost another $50, but it was worth it IMO cuz there's no wires showing anywhere..

I did look at the firewall situation for running the cable, but it's not like an easy thing to do.. You gotta literally go down underneath where the master cylinder is, and cut a little opening into the rubber grommet or whatever it's called.. It's cuz there's literally no openings up top unless you start drilling.. Plus you gotta hook the fuse up and all that, AND you gotta ground the amp in the back as well which I wasn't exactly sure on.. If it was just the RCA's and remote turn-on wire, I definitely woulda done it, but I just wanted it done that day and didn't wanna be outside in the freezing cold for hours trying to do it myself..
 






Im not sure if mine has its own amp in the car either. Its a stock deck with a casset player. its got an autoset button on it. But I've wired up sup/amp set ups before so its not a big deal to me. It's just finding a area to run the power supply through.
 






Im not sure if mine has its own amp in the car either. Its a stock deck with a casset player. its got an autoset button on it. But I've wired up sup/amp set ups before so its not a big deal to me. It's just finding a area to run the power supply through.

Definitely sounds like you have the stock amp - cuz I had the regular cassette player w/ the autoset button.. The amp is under the rear pass. quarter-panel.. You just gotta pry it off.. I didn't even take it off completely, cuz you need additional tools like torx bits, but if you're good with your hands, you should be able to unplug the stock amp and plug in the bypass cable.. For the 1st couple weeks, I just had those 2 wires for the stock amp connected, and was using it with the aftermarket deck, but you can only put the volume up halfway cuz of the extra power.. IT was still an improvement above stock, but it sounds alot better bypassed, and now with just a decent amp/sub added, it sounds completely different - WAY better than before, and cost me $200 tops for everything.
 






So the bypass cable connects to the stock amp? Can it just be removed completely?
 






Well there's a wire bundle coming from the front of the car, and there's 2 plugs attached to it, and they both plug into the stock amp... You unplug both of them, and the bypass cable has 2 plugs to plug right into them.. At that point, yea you could definitely take it out, but IMO it's not really worth it unless you plan on putting a new amp in that spot.. The problem is tho, the space under there is REALLY tight, so I'm not sure what you'd be able to fit.. Another issue is Ford used 2 different kinds of amps with different plugs, so before you order the cable you wanna be sure which 1 you need, cuz I've read about guys getting the wrong one, and having to end up cutting and splicing the wires.. You could actually just do that and not even use the cable, but like I said it's really tight back there, and I only had the panel off halfway, so just unplugging the cables with 1 hand was a hassle.
 






just ran my power wire today for the amp, wasn't too bad to find an easy access spot to drill. Grabbed a pack of feed through bushings from the local parts store, and was powered up in a few minutes.
 






Where did you put your amp? I used to have a set up in my 91 but the power wire was almost too short. So I'm thinking of putting it somewhere else but I don't know where.
 






If you get a decent wiring kit it'll def. be long enough... I think the 1 in mine was 18ft - 8g kit $25 ebay.. It seems most people put them in the cargo area, and there's a good spot to ground it where the backseat attaches to the frame.. Maybe put it underneath the backseat too tho, if you get creative..
 






I mounted mine right to the back of one of the seats. Im using an amp kit thats been in three vehicles otherwise it probably would have reached, had to get an extra three feet to go from fuse block to battery.
 






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