Please Help! Knock/Rattle after complete timing rebuild | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Please Help! Knock/Rattle after complete timing rebuild

cbaker22681

New Member
Joined
October 20, 2015
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer
Hey guys I am new here but have read Alot on these forums.. So here is my problem and hope you can help..

Just had timing components redone. Now there is a rattle/knock only in gear at 1900-2200rpms. No noise in park throughout all rpm ranges. Runs good no sign of missing. Here is a list of what was replaced..

Rear guides
Rear tensioner
Rear Cam sprocket
Front Guides
Front chain
Front tensioner
Front Cam Sprocket
Primary Guides
Primary Chain
Primary tensioner
Primary Sprockets
Balance shaft guides
Balance Shaft chain
Balance shaft tensioner
Oil pump
Water pump
Intake gaskets
Rear main seal
Plugs, wires, hoses, thermostat, pcv valve, 5w-30 Mobile 1 synthetic oil and filter.

Rear chain wasn't replaced because he said he didn't want to take head off and jackshaft bolt was known to strip easy.

Now after install I took it back to the mechanic about the knock and he tore it back down and put another set of tensioners all 3 (front, rear, and primary) from Ford.. Still has the knock/rattle at those rpms when driving..

What could this be? Did he not do something right? I can't really pinpoint where the sound is coming from.. Its is pretty loud and wasn't making this noise before the timing rebuild.

Could it be out of time? Even though it starts and runs fine?
Crank sensor? Knock sensor?

Put Iridium plugs in at the same time.. Could it be spark knock?

Also seems to be getting terrible gas mileage maybe around 12mpg..

Supposedly he did a compression check and driver side banks where around 165 and passenger side was about 135... But Idk if I believe that.. Mainly because he was saying the exhaust valves where probably bent prior to repair.. Which is why he did compression test to "prove it"..

Needless to say the vehicle was running fine beforehand with only the typical timing chain rattle occasionally. Now it's making this noise and he apparently doesn't know what it is or how to fix it..

What do you guys suggest? Also another note.. No CEL lights or codes.. When using the torque app the timing advance at idle is showing around 18degrees but while driving it shows up to around 40 degrees.. Is this correct?

Thanks in advance to anyone with any help, ideas, or suggestions.. This has really become a pain in my *** and getting very costly.

Feel like I have been screwed
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





You had a mechanic do the work correct does he have the proper alignment tool or did he Jerry rig something just to hold cams? I know when people do that they accedently bend the oil tubes on top of the cams and it hits the lobes! Something was built wrong if it wasn't knocking before the repair!

Tom
 






No I do not think he had the alignment tool.. I thought of the oil tubes as well but thought if that was the case then surely it would do it in park as well. But if you think so then I will pull the valve covers and check
 






I am really puzzled by the fact of it only doing it or at least noticeable at the certain rpm range and in gear.. I even thought maybe torque converter or bolts in it but doesnt really sound like that's where it's coming from. I have beat my head around it and can't figure it out... I don't trust him at this point to fix it and don't really want to put much more money into it. Was a small shop that I was referred to by someone and he had supposedly done others before.
 






Not using the tool can lead to problems! It could be out of time which would explain compression on one side and the knock could be valves hitting! It needs to be taken down and checked correctly with the tool. Is it a top end knock or bottom end knock see if you can isolate it to a side and top or bottom it will make it easier to figure out. I did the chains on my 97 boy was that fun I did it when trans went so I could do the back chains. Was the engine removed for this repair or the trans dropped! And was the balance tensioner actually replcaced or not cause most people have to pull the motor to replace entire tensioner which requires the upper pan to be removed which holds the crank in place and if not torqued right or damaged would cause a knock!

Tom
 






Also very hard to replace sprockets with out tool! Some of the parts listed require tool to replace and I would hope if this guy does it on a regular basis he bought the tool! I bought it and used it once. Lol but I knew without it I would screw up my motor!

Tom
 






If the motor or trans was pulled I would check to make sure the torque converter nuts are all tight! As well that's simple to check! If motor was removed. Check exhaust make sure it's not banging on something these are small things to check first cause when you move things other things break in process. I hope you figure it out if you live in nj I wouldn't mind spending some time looking at it with you but the odds you live in nj are 1-50 if you live in USA lol

Tom
 






Yes motor was completely pulled.. Yes supposedly balance shaft tensioner and chain were change. Oil pump was put in during process. Who knows what he did and what he didn't do and/or do right at this point.. I will try to isolate the noise to a general location and check the flywheel bolts as soon as I get a chance. These 12+ hr days are killing me. That's one of the main reasons I paid to have it done. Was hoping/wishing someone could say oh it's this and be done lol but knew that was hopeful wishing. Oh and Tom thanks for the offer to help but I am in TN a little to far of a drive to swing by
 






I did my chains and guides without the tools but the engine was out and I was very careful. It's my car after all.

One thing I noticed was that with all the jostling one of the rockers had slid off it's proper mounting place.
I put it back where it should be but I don't remember if I went back to see why it moved and if it was going to do it again.

Now I have a tap in the top end right about where that rocker is and it starts at about 2800. Hmmm.

I've got to fix it but it will tear my back out leaning over the engine bay.
 






Back
Top