Please help me fix my Poor Explorer:(

[Angelite32]

I need some major help! My poor 2002 Explorer 4.0 has been down for months and Im still making payments on it and having to get dropped off at works up to 6 hrs before I have to be there anyways here we go this is what has been done and what has happened afterwards

So keep in mind this poor this was rode hard and put up wet. We knew this but had no idea what we was getting into. And we are very low on funds....

So was driving on interstate when suddenly it stopped pulling even with foot all the way to the floor. Made it to a gas station and got it pulled home. At this time my husband (has a 2001 Ford Ranger (has had many fords he has fixed on his own) changed all spark plugs and wires, at this point it sounded like it was missing when running so changed the coil pack. Still sounded like missing. Would sound better somewhat when Mass Air was unplugged so replaced that. Checked catalatic converters to find they had been hollowed out. (bad weld job, pretty loud) At this point we had no idea what was going on so got it hauled to a mechanic. Not much can be said about that one they said they fixed a injector (this was after them having it over 2 months) and that was looking for a valve that was making it run ritch. 3 days later they say its jumped time but wouldn't deleiver back home or release it until we threatned to call the law...
Finally get it home, it runs a little better. Will know pull and drive. Still Sounds HORRIBLE. Drove it to the mechanic in town (never died or anything) he called us 2 days later saying there was a spark plug crossthreaded (used a helix to fix) and replaced the coil pack again 9said 2 of them wasn't firing. They advised to replace the serpentine belt (was frayed) and the 02 sensors. Was better driving away got worse as drove home (maybe 2 miles) but was drivable. Husband changed the belt. Sounds horrible again, threating to die drops to 50 rpms. if try to drive it goes in and out from pulling.
Tested downstream sensors after changed them ang only getting around .20 on meter. Sounded a little better. Checked the upward ones and they would get up to around .800 (hubby things propane flame thingie is not hot enough) then drop really fast so he put back in. Now when starts up is very very loud under hood. Now there is a loud knocking noise in engine compartment that will come and go. and still does the drop down to where car is struggling to stay on. Can definetly smell bad gas mixture around car when running.

HELP! Pretty please! This is suppose to be my car, I haven't had one to myself in over 3 yrs, I only got to drive it about 2 months before it went crazy and I miss it! Sorry about all the info but hopefully you smart people on here can help us.

2002 Ford Explorer 4.0 4x4

 

[boominXplorer]

Your engine more than likely jumped time due to bad timing chain guides. Before you throw any more parts at it at least do a compression check. The only way to check timing chains is take the valve covers off, set the crank at TDC and see if the slots in the back of the cams are parallel to the head.

 

[drdoom]

Has anyone done a compression test and if so what are the readings? Ditto on the fuel pressure test. Has the fuel filter been replaced? No offense but it sounds like they are putting expensive parts on there to no avail. More diagnostics and less shotgunning parts.

 

[Angelite32]

hmm compression check huh

ok so as you can prob tell, this is the girl stuck with the bad explorer. So if I ask stupid question its cause Im still learning. None of the mechanics have mentioned a compression check. Will that have to be something I need to take it back to the good one for? Also if it has jumped time would it act better then worse? wouldn't it always be bad? Also I will say my Engine is the E model that I have read that a replacement cassette was done by Ford for.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

the engine is really messed up from bad mechanics, cross threaded plugs, hollowed out cats, parts being thrown/replaced for no reason, it's been driven probably with the check engine light for so long that it masked other issues that needs fixing.
find a decent shop, you might pay more but at least it will get fixed properly.

 

[Angelite32]

thats the one thing I didnt do

I may be country but I am also a sissy girl lol. As soon as the check engine light came on I got it towed or right home. I have to drive around 30 mins to work so there aint no way I would drive it with light on.
The last mechanic was one that people in my town swear by, very cut and dry. When asked if could bring it there before we even got back from the bad ones he told us if didn't start then it had jumped and not to bring it til got new motor. People in this area swear by him. and it did run better. but once frayed belt was replaced it got worse. For instance husband was stupid and ran out of gas maybe a mile from house. It was only vehicle here so drove it down light did not come on at any time it only took hitting gas once for it to go correctly and only tried to lower rpms with idling.
We are just trying to get ideas on what we may be missing. My husband says he has no idea what it is doing. But we cant afford to keep putting it in the shop that's why I reached out to you guys.

Again is compression something we can check or? Also fuel filter was changed about 2 months before breakdown (also while at bad mechanic shop the gas was siphoned out )

 

[Duranged84]

you can rent a compression tester from auto zone or oriellys, just do a quick google search for compression test for a full explanation, but basically, you'll pull one spark plug at a time, disable the ignition coil so it doesnt start, and bump the starter a few times, the gauge on the tester will show what each one has, I dont remember off the top of my head what it should be, but again, a quick search here or google for it should be easy, all 6 should be pretty close to the same number within a few pounds. If your husband can do sparkplugs, he can do this. Dont throw more money to a less than excellent mechanic. They might have lots of happy customers, doesnt mean theyre looking out for everyones best interest. I recently ended a partnership and left a shop, partly due to the partner replacing an engine that didnt need to be.... What should have been a 15 minute fix( just needed transmission bolts to engine tightened) turned into at least a 2 week screw up.... Im still looking for the customer to try to let him know what really happened and needed done. thats a whole other subject, but to make the point, try to find someone with some decent mechanical knowledge and that you know is honest to talk with whichever shop you consider using again. No reason they shouldnt have a better diagnosis after a couple of wrongly replaced parts. If theyre just guessing and your paying each time, theres no incentive for them to get you in and fixed properly, in a timely manner, and back on the road.

Didnt mean to rant, but sick of these phoney mechanics that seem to be everywhere. Too bad your so far away, Id look into it for free. Offer stands if you wanna drag it to Oklahoma, May be cheaper than the mechanics out there.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Start shopping for a motor out of a scraped explorer, ranger or mustang. The lower miles the better. anything 02 to 10 should work with a E or a K. Pull the valve covers before you give any cash for it, just to make sure the timing guides are still there or you will end up with the same problem you have now. If you do find one out of an explorer, see if they will throw the cats in, anything post 02 wont run properly with the cats smashed out. You should be looking at under a grand for an engine, and a couple days work if you drop it in yourself.