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Please help with DTC P0108
- Thread starter Scram
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Ornery
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- 2006 Explorer EB V8 4WD
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
It's the first device in the Air Intake Hose on the way from the Air Filter Box.
It's the first device in the Air Intake Hose on the way from the Air Filter Box.
So it has nothing to do with EGR valve then? I was looking at the EGR and thought the device looked like it was incorporated in that unit.
One more for you...... this would truly be a MAP sensor then or no?
Thanks for your help
One more for you...... this would truly be a MAP sensor then or no?
Thanks for your help
More information
Code scanner says MAP sensor state is "1" in red.
Barometric pressure reads 151.7 and bar is yellow
I found some wires with insulation rubbed through on one of the sensors where the plastic loom dug into it apparently. Fixed that up but no luck with the engine light. Cleared it twice and it came back twice.
This sensor was right near the bend in the intake tube. 4 wires connected to it about 6 inches or so before the EGR valve. Could it be shorted from those wires touching?
Code scanner says MAP sensor state is "1" in red.
Barometric pressure reads 151.7 and bar is yellow
I found some wires with insulation rubbed through on one of the sensors where the plastic loom dug into it apparently. Fixed that up but no luck with the engine light. Cleared it twice and it came back twice.
This sensor was right near the bend in the intake tube. 4 wires connected to it about 6 inches or so before the EGR valve. Could it be shorted from those wires touching?
Ornery
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- October 7, 2012
- Messages
- 423
- Reaction score
- 3
- City, State
- Northeast Ohio
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2006 Explorer EB V8 4WD
Hoping An Expert Weighs In
I apologize. I assumed the MAF and MAP sensors were one in the same. The MAF Sensor is right next to the air box. I don't even see a MAP Sensor for sale at Rock Auto.
If that were my truck, the first thing I'd do is routine maintenance. Get the filters, plugs and fluids done. No waste of money there. Search visually and listen for a vacuum leak. Costs nothing. Then, you might want to have a smoke test for vacuum leaks. Maybe a compression check. After that, start throwing parts at it starting from the cheapest.
I do have a mechanic I trust that doesn't gouge me. I'd probably turn it over to him for the smoke test, and/or let him diagnose it. I'd tell him up front that I'll install any parts he thinks need replacement.
Good Luck!
I apologize. I assumed the MAF and MAP sensors were one in the same. The MAF Sensor is right next to the air box. I don't even see a MAP Sensor for sale at Rock Auto.
If that were my truck, the first thing I'd do is routine maintenance. Get the filters, plugs and fluids done. No waste of money there. Search visually and listen for a vacuum leak. Costs nothing. Then, you might want to have a smoke test for vacuum leaks. Maybe a compression check. After that, start throwing parts at it starting from the cheapest.
I do have a mechanic I trust that doesn't gouge me. I'd probably turn it over to him for the smoke test, and/or let him diagnose it. I'd tell him up front that I'll install any parts he thinks need replacement.
Good Luck!
Found the answer to this going on a hunch
I am also posting this as a new thread so others won't have to go through the same hassle I did to get an answer on this one.
I had the CEL come on and when scanned code P0108 was listed which indicates manifold absolute pressure is too high. No big deal, there has to be a sensor just for this (or so I thought).
It turns out the sensor that measures manifold pressure it is not a stand alone part but instead is part of the EGR valve assembly. This sensor itself is called a DPFE which stands for Delta Pressure Feedback of EGR. Because of this, the EGR valve assembly now becomes an exhaust gas system module.
Some will argue the sensor being discussed is actually a MAP sensor. The bottom line is it makes no difference what it's called, it performs the same function which is to control the EGR valve opening and closing.
So here's the deal:
P0108 = Manifold absolute pressure too high.
Location = Directly behind the throttle body.
Symptoms =
1) Check engine light is on.
2) You may have noticed reduced performance like hesitation when
accelerating or overall loss of power.
3) You may notice reduced fuel economy.
4) There might be no noticeable issues at all.
Cause =
1) A leak in a vacuum line or crushed vacuum line.
2) A clogged EGR valve and/or tubes.
4) Wires to sensor broken, cracked or shorted.
3) A bad DPFE sensor.
Fix =
1) Repair any damaged or crushed vacuum lines
2) You can try to clean the lines and the sensor itself with seafoam or
another cleaner. Make sure cleaner is listed as being sensor safe.
"This option would still require module removal.
3) Repair any damaged wiring.
4) Replace the EGR module.
Opinion If you have ruled out vacuum leaks or any wiring issues just replace the
darn thing. I paid a little over $100 at Pep boys for a replacement with a
lifetime warranty. Some will argue to get a factory replacement part but
in my mind since it only lasted 70k miles I say hogwash.
Stuff you'll need =
1) 10mm wrench or socket and ratchet with swivel extension for
removal of module.
2) 1 1/16 open end wrench for disconnecting exhaust tube. (I know this
is not metric but it will fit perfectly).
3) Penetrating oil. Spray the exhaust tube fitting and mounting bolts a
couple of hours before you tackle replacement. (MAKE SURE engine is
relatively cool before you spray anything on it).
4) A couple of hours to spare.
5) Screwdriver or nut driver for hose clamp at throttle body.
6) Pliers to remove clamp for 1" dia. hose connected to top of intake
tube. There is an o-ring on that fitting so don't lose it.
Disconnect =
1) Disconnect all sensor wires on intake tube, throttle body and EGR
module.
2) Remove top half of air box assembly and intake tube up to throttle
body as 1 piece.
3) Disconnect 2 small vacuum lines on EGR module.
4) Loosen exhaust tube until fitting slides back out of EGR valve.
5) Remove screws holding module in place and then of course the
module itself and gasket.
Install new module in reverse order clear the codes and waalaah you're done!
Benefits:
1) You didn't pay the garage 400 bucks.
2) Better performance and mileage.
3) A happy wife! (That's if it's her vehicle obviously).
I hope this has been helpful to somebody.............
I am also posting this as a new thread so others won't have to go through the same hassle I did to get an answer on this one.
I had the CEL come on and when scanned code P0108 was listed which indicates manifold absolute pressure is too high. No big deal, there has to be a sensor just for this (or so I thought).
It turns out the sensor that measures manifold pressure it is not a stand alone part but instead is part of the EGR valve assembly. This sensor itself is called a DPFE which stands for Delta Pressure Feedback of EGR. Because of this, the EGR valve assembly now becomes an exhaust gas system module.
Some will argue the sensor being discussed is actually a MAP sensor. The bottom line is it makes no difference what it's called, it performs the same function which is to control the EGR valve opening and closing.
So here's the deal:
P0108 = Manifold absolute pressure too high.
Location = Directly behind the throttle body.
Symptoms =
1) Check engine light is on.
2) You may have noticed reduced performance like hesitation when
accelerating or overall loss of power.
3) You may notice reduced fuel economy.
4) There might be no noticeable issues at all.
Cause =
1) A leak in a vacuum line or crushed vacuum line.
2) A clogged EGR valve and/or tubes.
4) Wires to sensor broken, cracked or shorted.
3) A bad DPFE sensor.
Fix =
1) Repair any damaged or crushed vacuum lines
2) You can try to clean the lines and the sensor itself with seafoam or
another cleaner. Make sure cleaner is listed as being sensor safe.
"This option would still require module removal.
3) Repair any damaged wiring.
4) Replace the EGR module.
Opinion If you have ruled out vacuum leaks or any wiring issues just replace the
darn thing. I paid a little over $100 at Pep boys for a replacement with a
lifetime warranty. Some will argue to get a factory replacement part but
in my mind since it only lasted 70k miles I say hogwash.
Stuff you'll need =
1) 10mm wrench or socket and ratchet with swivel extension for
removal of module.
2) 1 1/16 open end wrench for disconnecting exhaust tube. (I know this
is not metric but it will fit perfectly).
3) Penetrating oil. Spray the exhaust tube fitting and mounting bolts a
couple of hours before you tackle replacement. (MAKE SURE engine is
relatively cool before you spray anything on it).
4) A couple of hours to spare.
5) Screwdriver or nut driver for hose clamp at throttle body.
6) Pliers to remove clamp for 1" dia. hose connected to top of intake
tube. There is an o-ring on that fitting so don't lose it.
Disconnect =
1) Disconnect all sensor wires on intake tube, throttle body and EGR
module.
2) Remove top half of air box assembly and intake tube up to throttle
body as 1 piece.
3) Disconnect 2 small vacuum lines on EGR module.
4) Loosen exhaust tube until fitting slides back out of EGR valve.
5) Remove screws holding module in place and then of course the
module itself and gasket.
Install new module in reverse order clear the codes and waalaah you're done!
Benefits:
1) You didn't pay the garage 400 bucks.
2) Better performance and mileage.
3) A happy wife! (That's if it's her vehicle obviously).
I hope this has been helpful to somebody.............
Ornery
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- October 7, 2012
- Messages
- 423
- Reaction score
- 3
- City, State
- Northeast Ohio
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2006 Explorer EB V8 4WD
Hey Scram, nice job. Looks like you've created quite a valuable thread. Wish I could have been more help. I do appreciate you're taking the effort to post your results, let alone all the details. An awful lot of people who take advantage of this resource, can't even bother to say if they solved their issue at all!
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