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please i need help.

joebeta

Member
Joined
April 23, 2003
Messages
14
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City, State
queens,ny
Year, Model & Trim Level
93 xlt
my 93 x will not start.i checked the fuel pump restart switch and its not tripped.the red button did not pop up.i checked the fuses and relays.the fuses work for sure.im not to sure about the relays though.i get a knocking sound when i try to turn on the truck.i dont get any other sound besides that.has anyone ever had this problem?i hope someone can help me figure this out.i dont want to run to ford and have them charge an arm and a leg for something i can probly do myself.i thankyou all in advance.
 



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Joe.. so it will turn over and just not start? Or you turn the key and it just clicks? I'd make sure it has fuel and then try jump starting it.
 






We just need a little more info. If the engine doesn't crank and you hear a click or a repeating click, Check your battery connections and the ground cable first, that includes cleaning the terminals. Try cranking with the headlights on... What do you get? If the engine cranks, do you hear the fuel pump? Check fuel press. Are you getting any spark at the plugs? The more details you can provide the better. If you can answer these questions it will help greatly..
 






the truck ran great before this.when i turn the ignition i get no noise from the engine at all.the battery works fine.all the lights turn on.next to the fuse box that is near the air filter box.there is a knocking sound when i turn the key.like something opening and closing.is this the fuel pump?how can i check for pressure?i bought my x used and have had it for a week now.this is the first problem ive had with it.so im still very raw with trucks.the truck has fuel.
 






If the engine is not turning over, then it's probably not the fuel pump. It's more likely the battery, starter, starter solenoid, or battery cable. If you're hearing a "click" from up by the battery, that's probably the solenoid closing. If you are certain that the battery is good, make sure all your connections are good. If they are good, check the resistance in the battery cable from the battery to the starter. If it's in the KOhm or MOhm range, it's probably bad. If it's good, then I would suspect the starter.
 






I think the starter solenoid can't be the problem because usually when they go you get a sound of the starter spinning but it never engages due to the solenoid being out. Hope that makes sense because it does in my head.

Randy
 






Originally posted by scorgnetic
I think the starter solenoid can't be the problem because usually when they go you get a sound of the starter spinning but it never engages due to the solenoid being out. Hope that makes sense because it does in my head.

Randy

That's the sign of the bendix going bad, not the solenoid. The solenoid is the unit that you hear clicking up on the fenderwall. The bendix is the gear and spring mechanism that allows the starter to engage the flywheel.
 






You have been given good advice. I would just like to add, since you are in the rust belt, you should check your ground strap. The easiest way is to use your jumper cable and jumper directly to the engine block from the Negative terminal of the battery.
 






Well, here I go. I am making a few assumptions here. The first is that with the headlights on, and you attempt starting the engine the lights do not go dim. I am also assuming that for every attempted start cycle (turn of the key), you get only one click (If either of these two point are not true, check the battery connections, visually inspect 100% of the battery ground and verify that battery voltage does not drop with attempted start). With this being said, the problem is most likely the start relay or the start solenoid.

Check the start relay. It is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment just aft of the battery. The thing you hear clicking. I check this at the starter. On the starter there is one wire, which snaps on, make sure it is connected, if it is remove it and check voltage at the wire while attempting to start the vehicle. If you get approx 12V. during the attempted start, the start relay is working as advertised. Reconnect the wire.

At this point it is most likely safe to assume that the start solenoid located on the starter is bad. You can check this. Pull of the red plastic cap and you will see two nuts holding down two cables. The voltage at the long cable should be battery voltage at all times, it runs straight from the battery, let me say this again it is HOT! Try not to arc weld anything. Now check the voltage at the short cable that disappears into the starter. You should have 0 volts, becoming 12+ volts during a start attempt. This tells me that your solenoid is O.K and the problem is within the start motor itself. If you don't see 12+ volts during the start attempt, you have a high resistive load across the start solenoid caused from years of contact erosion. Last time I checked, you can replace only the start solenoid for about $40, the start relay for only $9. To replace the entire starter can cost between $129-160. So, if you troubleshoot everything you can save yourself a lot of money. I would like to stress one more time the need to check the battery ground wire they corrode all the time.

Good luck, let me know how it turns out.
 






well guys i got it fixed.it was the starter unit.i was charged $190.first we changed the selnoid.that wasnt the problem.so the obvious choice was the starter.its fine now.once again i thank everyone who took the time to help me out.im sure i will need to count on you guys again.until i learn....:-)
 






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