Pop My Motor Swap Cherry (1st Gen Exploder)

[ragingbull2k2]

Long time lurker, here... signed up quite a while for info on my '98 ranger which has since been relegated to DD duties for my mom, but now I'm joining the exploder family!

Bought a gold '94 4x4 exploder a couple of months back for $200... motor runs STRONG it seems and everything is in working order except for the tranny (put it in any gear and just revs)... swapping out the tranny would be easier than a motor but the issue is it owes 6+ years of registration fees in cali, which would amount to somewhere over $500... body is in perfect condition, except for the interior being pretty much junk...

Buddy of mine has a red '94 4x4 exploder that he's selling me for $300... body is in decent shape (clear coat is coming off) and interior is in decent condition as well... won't start (I suspect a fuel pump issue) but does crank... according to him the tranny works but it blew a head gasket... best part is it's been non-op since he parked it, so no back fees owed...

Now to my question: I want to swap the gold exploders v6 to the red one and keep the gold exploder for parts (probably sell most of the body)... now I've never done a motor swap, but I have done pretty much everything else you can do to a truck suspension-wise... how big of a feat would this be? I have access to a cherry picker and plenty of tools...

Also, is there a write-up on the interwebz somewhere I can look at? Or is a haynes/clymer all I really need... appreciate the input!

Joey

 

[ragingbull2k2]

bump?

Joey

 

[shaggymane]

Ok, not sure exactly what you're looking for but here goes.
A 94 AT to a 94 AT shouldn't have any problems like harnesses not matching.

Since you've got a shop crane you're good there.

Chilton's or Haynes will give you a check list of sorts and an order for disconnecting stuff.

What they might not tell you is a thing like take the radiator out to keep the engine from swinging into it. Your common sense might already tell you that.

You've got one hard spot then, that I comes to mind.
where to disconnect the exhaust? Manifolds from the engine or Y-pipe from the manifolds. Can we assume you have good experience at removing stuck rusty bolts? And that you have a torch? unless someone has recently loosened the exhaust bolts, you'll need the heat. The top row on the exhaust manifolds will be rusted in place since they are open on the back side. Bright ideas from ford! I recently did mine and it took 3 times of heating before they'd break loose. Got in a hurry with one and it broke. Seems like they are hardened bolts. hard to drill out. Actually it's the head portion around the bolt you want to heat.
Personally I'd remove the inner fenders and go for the Y-pipe bolts. That way if you need to remove the tranny later it'll be easier. Once again use heat, be patient and don't try to muscle them out.


I can think of other things to bring up. You doing this inside a garage with enough head room? If you get the engine up and there isn't enough head room, take the tires off the exp and lower it for additional clearance.

hope this helps

 

[ragingbull2k2]

thanks for the reply, shaggy! definitely helps, its the little things I haven't thought of that I need a heads up on, like the exhaust... very used to getting stuck/rusty bolts out (have a little propane torch in my tool box for just that)... so I guess it would be easier to remove the y-pipe from the manifolds, as I don't want to go breaking studs and what-not, lol... doing all this outside under a tree, haha... both trucks will be side by side, so that helps me...

one question I did have was the tranny... I know there are bolts that connect it to the engine, but my buddy was saying something about unbolting the the flywheel from the torque converter? not trying to get tranny fluid all over the place, so could use some advice there and maybe some pics...

thanks again, shaggy!

Joey

 

[Willard]

Yes you will need to unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel. You have to remove the starter to get to them, but you will only be able to access one at a time. You have to turn the motor some by hand to get to the rest. There are four bolts, and it can be a little tedious to get to them all, but it's not too bad. When you reinstall the motor, just make sure everything is lined up right. The torque converter only lines up to the flywheel one way, so pay attention to that.

 

[ragingbull2k2]

thanks for that bit of info, Willard... I wouldve had noooo idea what to do, lol... any other tips and tricks? I'm planning on putting painters tape on every hose/wire/harness I unplug and mark it so I can keep track of what goes where... and I just might take out the radiator from the get-go just to get it out of the way... thanks again!

Joey

 

[shaggymane]

thanks for the reply, shaggy! definitely helps, its the little things I haven't thought of that I need a heads up on, like the exhaust... very used to getting stuck/rusty bolts out (have a little propane torch in my tool box for just that)... so I guess it would be easier to remove the y-pipe from the manifolds, as I don't want to go breaking studs and what-not,

I agree, it's the little things that bite one in butt. I'm surprised a propane torch puts out enough heat. I use a big cutting torch and had to get it cherry hot 3 times. The torch is a one piece unit so I can't use a rosebud tip.
The Y-pipe bolts will break. If you wanna learn from my mistakes....I tried to muscle one off, breakover bar & cheater....it broke.........got the other one hot and loose......put the impact on it, after 3 revs, it got tight and it broke also.
An interesting thing.......after you get the Y-pipe bolts out, 7/16ths X 14 stainless bolt will fit. Check to be sure but it worked for me. I'm a big fan of using stainless steel bolts in the exhaust.

lol... doing all this outside under a tree, haha... both trucks will be side by side, so that helps me...
Joey

I've had to remove a C-6 from a F250 on gravel, used a 3/4" sheet of plywood underneath so the jack would roll.

Those top two tranny bolts often give people fits. Hard to get to. Long wrenches and maybe take the upper intake off.
When you get ready to break the engine loose from the tranny, there's a good chance they'll want to stick together. Thin flat bars help. I dunno, you start pulling up with the hoist the bottom might just break loose.
Make sure you don't pull the tree branch down on you.

I think this one will help you.......when you put the engine back in, get two long bolts, say 3"-3 1/2", cut the heads off, and put a slot (for a screwdriver) in the bolt where you cut the head off. Use them as dowels to help guide your installation. One on each side.

When you get them close together, you'll need to start lining up the torque converter bolts on the flywheel. With the dowels and one bolt in it's hole, they should pretty well clunk together. You gotta be damn sure those TC blots are where they need to be and everything about that tranny is setting right. You need to make sure the TQ is still sitting in it's proper place and hasn't come forward.
Since you didn't know about the TQ bolts do you know how to tell if the TC is in properly?



Don't be afraid to practice with your throw away motor since you'll be pulling it out first, right? Break it loose, pull it up a ways, then let it back down and watch how they line up. The bolts should be in the right (same) place.

Once again, I don't know your experience. when I've done AT's and they are lined up right, there's a distinct sound they make with that last 1/2 inch of roll as the tranny comes flush with the engine. It's a cross between a clunk and a thunk. Very satisfying to hear that sound. I know everything's good.
Don't know if doing an engine install will make that sound.
Then too, I've had tranny's go in so tight the only way to bring then up to the engine was cranking each bolt a couple turns at a time. Mostly manuals, though.


I'm curious about something. The red ones suspected of having a fuel pump issue. Since you're gonna have to solve that problem anyway why not fix that to make sure the tranny's good? Or do you have that planned?

 

[ragingbull2k2]

I agree, it's the little things that bite one in butt. I'm surprised a propane torch puts out enough heat. I use a big cutting torch and had to get it cherry hot 3 times. The torch is a one piece unit so I can't use a rosebud tip.
The Y-pipe bolts will break. If you wanna learn from my mistakes....I tried to muscle one off, breakover bar & cheater....it broke.........got the other one hot and loose......put the impact on it, after 3 revs, it got tight and it broke also.

things don't rust out in southern california... like, at all, haha... well, things do rust but not anywhere near as bad as other parts of the country... so a propane torch should be enough heat to break things apart...

An interesting thing.......after you get the Y-pipe bolts out, 7/16ths X 14 stainless bolt will fit. Check to be sure but it worked for me. I'm a big fan of using stainless steel bolts in the exhaust.

noted, thanks!

I've had to remove a C-6 from a F250 on gravel, used a 3/4" sheet of plywood underneath so the jack would roll.

hopefully my gramps has some laying around I can use...

Those top two tranny bolts often give people fits. Hard to get to. Long wrenches and maybe take the upper intake off.
When you get ready to break the engine loose from the tranny, there's a good chance they'll want to stick together. Thin flat bars help. I dunno, you start pulling up with the hoist the bottom might just break loose.
Make sure you don't pull the tree branch down on you.

this is something my room mate had mentioned to me, but taking out the upper intake sounds like a good idea if I can't get in there... and no trees above me, haha

I think this one will help you.......when you put the engine back in, get two long bolts, say 3"-3 1/2", cut the heads off, and put a slot (for a screwdriver) in the bolt where you cut the head off. Use them as dowels to help guide your installation. One on each side.

When you get them close together, you'll need to start lining up the torque converter bolts on the flywheel. With the dowels and one bolt in it's hole, they should pretty well clunk together. You gotta be damn sure those TC blots are where they need to be and everything about that tranny is setting right. You need to make sure the TQ is still sitting in it's proper place and hasn't come forward.
Since you didn't know about the TQ bolts do you know how to tell if the TC is in properly?

sooo I'm guess is TC is torque converter... but what is TQ? pardon my ignorance, still learning I guess... so you cut the head off so I can back it out through the tranny side? this is my understanding and definitely sounds like a good idea! and I've heard about there being a distinct sound when the tranny and engine finally mate correctly...

Don't be afraid to practice with your throw away motor since you'll be pulling it out first, right? Break it loose, pull it up a ways, then let it back down and watch how they line up. The bolts should be in the right (same) place.

another trick my room mate, who is a diesel mechanice, suggested I do when trying to break everything loose... and yeah, I was planning on taking out the good one first...

Once again, I don't know your experience. when I've done AT's and they are lined up right, there's a distinct sound they make with that last 1/2 inch of roll as the tranny comes flush with the engine. It's a cross between a clunk and a thunk. Very satisfying to hear that sound. I know everything's good.
Don't know if doing an engine install will make that sound.
Then too, I've had tranny's go in so tight the only way to bring then up to the engine was cranking each bolt a couple turns at a time. Mostly manuals, though.

definitely another good thing to know!

I'm curious about something. The red ones suspected of having a fuel pump issue. Since you're gonna have to solve that problem anyway why not fix that to make sure the tranny's good? Or do you have that planned?

well, the plan was to swap the motor over first, then I was planning on swapping the tank over from the donor exploder to the red one instead of bothering with the pump... but I was thinking about it further after reading your reply and I may just end up renting out a fuel pressure tester first to make sure I'm not getting fuel... I don't know yet, haha... looks like I'm not gonna finish in time and I haven't even started lol... good thing its a project, and I don't have to rely on this to get home...

thanks again for the long and extensive reply, shaggy! if you're ever out in my neck of the woods, I'm buying you a beer!

Joey

 

[ragingbull2k2]

so I decided to hold off on the motor swap for a little longer until I can somewhat get the red explorer going first... just cranks and cranks, but doesn't even stumble... gonna check spark and fuel today along with all the fuses and relays... I may even check for compression to see if in fact the headgasket is blown... it should at least be able to turn on with a blown headgasket, right? I checked the oil and its completely black, as in I don't see any water whatsoever... not even foamy...

another reason why I'm holding off: the donor explorer is a '93 while the red one is a '94... not sure how much, if any, they changed between the two years...

Joey

 

[Willard]

Yea it sounds like there isn't fuel getting to it. Even a blown headgasket should run, or at very least try and start. But it sounds like it's not even trying. I think you are doing the smart thing by trying and running it first. Maybe you will get lucky, and there won't even be anything wrong. Worst case scenario you have to swap the motor like you planned anyways.

 

[shaggymane]

"sooo I'm guess is TC is torque converter"

Right, so is TQ. My bad. small brain fart there.

"so you cut the head off so I can back it out through the tranny side? this is my understanding and definitely sounds like a good idea!"
Correct.

 

[shaggymane]

things don't rust out in southern california... like, at all, haha... well, things do rust but not anywhere near as bad as other parts of the country... so a propane torch should be enough heat to break things apart. Joey

ah yes, It never rains in southern California. And the air is drier. I can see how that would help anti rust. But they are exhaust bolts we are talking about. The worst of the worst. Have you actually removed exhaust bolts that have been on for 15+ years, like 19yrs by now, with only a propane torch? Jeez, that makes a man want to move to SoCal.

Here's another tidbit I just learned. I'm in 91 so my breather is on the pass side.
There's a wiring harness that runs under the breather box platform. Had to take that off to remove the inner fender well. there's 3 bolts that stick thru the inner fender down into the tire area. Those bolts get dirty and here rusty, of course. the nuts will bind up. The bolts don't break, they start turning where they mount down inside a recessed part of the plastic breather platform. When you get yours off you'll be able to see what I mean.

Trick is to turn the nut till it don't wanna go no more, them back it off 1/2 turn or more to let the threads clean out. repeat, repeat, repeat, till it's all the way off. Tedious as heck but they came off. Wire brushing will a die grinder helps if you have that available.

93-94's are different. I believe the breather is on the drivers side along with the hydraulic pump for the ABS. I assume you'll have to unbolt them.

I was wondering if you could drag the *good tank* along side the dead expy and connect it. Once the tank is down you have access to where the lines bolt to the frame.........nah, that won't work........it's the *dead tank* you need out of the way.

Something you might try........ Pull the air plenum loose from the throttle body and give it about a good 2 second blast of starting fluid down the throat, just slide the plenum back on and hit the starter. If it fires, runs for a second or two, your problem then is fuel delivery.
If you don't have help, turn the key on before you get under the hood, use a remote starter switch or jump the fender solenoid.

If 2 seconds of ether (starting fluid) doesn't work try 4. It takes a lot more ether on a car motor than a lawn mower which is what I'm used to doing that trick on.

Well, now you know what I know.