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Porter Cable Buffer Models / 3M Products

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2024 F-150 Tremor
Which is *the* model to use? I did some looking, and came up with this model:

http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/port/7424_car_buffer.htm?E+coastest

Is this a base model, a good model, etc.? As you can see from the Avatar, my Trac's black, so it wasn't if, but when I'd invest in the PC...

Also, should I stick to 3M products (SMR, Polish) as a base for Zaino before I top it with a high gloss such as Klasse?

Any insight is appreciated. Thanks folks.
 



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Mine is black also. I use the PC w/Menzerna Intensive Polish & Final Polish prior to Zaino. Menzerna has no fillers, like 3M does, which will keep the Zaino from adhearing. 3M fills the swirles while Menzerna eliminates them. The PC shown looks right. Pads, Menzerna I get from http://www.properautocare.com/ . Take your time and you can get a "mirror" finish. I have also used Mequiars NXT instead of Zaino and I cant tell the difference in shine. The NXT probably wont last as long as Zaino but its cheaper & as easy to apply.
 






If your worried about fillers use a 50/50 Iso/Water solution after each panel to see where your at.
 






Bill,

Since the Trac is faily new, and the exterior only has scratches, no swirls, could I get away with just the Final Polish? Or should I go with both?

From what I have been reading, the dual auction PC is only so-so at removing swirls and scratches? Or are companies trying to sell the 7454 instead?

I'm trying to weigh the costs of having others detail it versus doign it myself. Again, any insught is appreciated!
 






The 7336 is the model to get. It comes with a 6" counterweight already installed. It shouldn't be more than $115 or so. Check at places like Coastal Tool (www.coastaltool.com) or your local Lowes, HD, etc. Then get the Lake Country pad kit from www.properautocare.com.

The D/A polisher can indeed take out almost all scratches, swirl marks, etc. with the right technique, pad and product. Rotaries are great in the interest of time, however, they are much less forgiving than a D/A polisher is. If at any point in the future you feel like you want to step up to one, get an old panel from the junkyard to practice on first before you tackle your own car.

I'd also recommend the Menzerna products and would suggest that you get both the IP and the FP. Even though your truck is fairly new, I guarantee that you have some sort of scratches, swirl marks, etc. in that paint. My black paint scratches if you look at it wrong. :rolleyes: Here is an excellent tutorial on how to properly use the Menzerna polishes with the PC: Menzerna & PC

As for the cost of doing it yourself vs. paying for it, look at it this way: what you spend on products and the PC will probably equal what you'd pay to have it done professionally (I'd charge around $200 for that job). The difference is that you'll have the supplies to do it another 20-30 times, plus you'll pick up a lot of knowledge and experience and then you can start making some extra cash by doing other cars. :thumbsup:


Mike
 






^What he said.^

UtahX, The 3M IMO does more filling the eliminating which is fine if you are useing wax and dont mind doint it every couple of months. So if you use the 50/50 mix you remove the fillers and are almost back where you started. Therefore for Zaino use no fillers are the way to go.
 






Fantastic help, Mike and Bill.

As for practicing, I still have my old 2001 Subaru Legacy that has more swirls than .. I don't know, a twist soft-serve machine.. :) It's my 'beater' so I can just practice on its hood. Afterall, it can't get much worse than it is now...

Now, more questions...

http://www.minihttpserver.net/showasin/Cat_tools_En_portercable_7336__6_varia-B0000222YH.htm

Which hook/loop base do I need with the 7336? I'm fairly sure the 7336 is a sander model, so it's a bit different in what is included.
 






Ya know...The first link to the 74?? that comes w/hook & loop & six " counterweight is a pretty good deal. Not much to changing the counter weight.
I think what the other thred was refering to about practicing is if you were useing a rotary buffer not a PC. You cant hardly screw anything up w/a PC orbital.
After looking at the hook & loop fasteners on the link to the 7336 you dont want any of those. If you get that PC get your backing plate from properauto.
 






Bill,

I was just mentioning that because alot of people still us different polishes/glazes that fill and they think their getting rid of their swirl marks but aren't, it's just a way of seeing where your at in the process.
 






Now I understand. It seemed counterproductive if you were just trying to hide them.
 






Well I have this buffer, the Porter Cable 7424 and can't say enough good things about it. I was using it in my buffing detail thread. You found it much cheaper than I got mine for. But get your pads at autopia. They have the best pads for that buffer around. I use Sonus pads for mine. If you get this buffer, you will never regret it, if you buy another, well, your own your own, LOL. But this is a top superb car buffer and the best buffer I have ever used. It doesn't burn cars and that is a major fact.
 






What exactly is "burning" your paint?
 






I just clicked on the link in your first post. That's exactly what you want and a good deal as well. Check your local Lowes first though. I seem to remember that I got my 7336 there two years ago for around $109. It comes with the correct backing plate and counterweight, so there's no need to buy anything else with it.


Mike
 






I guess you could burn into the paint with a PC (never heard about it yet), more likely with a rotary if you do not know how to use one.
 






007, The colored paint is covered with a clear coat. With a rotary buffer, if left in one place too long, you can overheat the clear coat which causes it to look milky. You then need a paint job. An orbital buffer doesnt go fast (rpm) enough to burn the paint. The orbital will take a long time to get out a scratch compared to a rotary and sometimes nothing but a rotery will heat the paint enough to polish out a scratch or really bad swirls in the paint.
 






Wonder...

how the 7424 would work on 100 volts 50 cycles? Sure don't want to burn it up practicing on my wife's car before I can use it at home on my Explorer.
 






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