possible to turn auto lock hub on and off? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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possible to turn auto lock hub on and off?

easymoney

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AUSTIN TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 EXPLORER
i have a 94 explorer with the auto locking hubs...is there an easy way to engage and disengage the front axel when the transfer case is in 4 low..(withought getting out of the vehicle or installing manual hub) Basically I want to be in 4 low (not 4 high) and be able to lock and unlock the front axel with possiblly a push button. This would allow me to creep around real slow in 2wheel drive LOW and be able to turn sharp and easily without having everything binding up on me like it does in 4low. If I got where I need the 4 wheel drive i just click on the button and the front engages..I know the older jeep have a kit that you can buy that runs a cable to the front axel that does this but not sure how this autohub thing works on the explorer since it is all electric....
 



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My answer: No it isn't possible. I don't quite understand the details, but, when the axleshaft rotates, it causes the cam in the hub to engage. The only electric party is the shift motor on the t-case. And so we get to the "but..."

If you replaced the stock transfer case with a twin stick model (doesn't atlas make a twin stick model?), then you could shift into Low without engaging the front end at all.

If you removed the front driveshaft, then the t-case couldn't cause the axleshafts to rotate, and the hubs wouldn't engage. Of course, without the d-shaft, who cares if the hubs engage. And it would sure be a pain to have to install the d-shaft hen you wanted 4x.

I'm not 100% certain, but if you gut the hub (remove the cam assembly from the wheelbearing locknut, the hub shouldn't be able to engage, and you could get 2 low. But, again it would sure be a pain to have to take everything about to install the guts when you wanted 4x.

So, after considering all possibilities, I guess it is possible to get 2L with auto hubs. IMO, however, if you need 2L that bad, I'd suggest investing the ~$200 and get manual hubs.
 






Manual hubs are the only way to go. The stock automatic hubs are craptastic and will break on you when you need them the most.
 






so what about the electric motor in the transfer case that tells the front axel to engage or disengage.....i wonder if there is a way to run that motor manualy to a switch...
 






You can't control the the front output on the t-case independantly from low range on the 1354. I'm sure with enough time and money something could be devised but you're just better off getting a better t-case that can be twinsticked.
 






all the tcase motor does is turn 4x4 on or off.... has nothing to do with trying to get 4x2 low range......

the front hubs are what might be able t odo 4x2 low range, however, the auto hubs dont manually lock or unlock... if they did, they would be called manual hubs
 






Indeed, the only way to do it with your setup is to replace the automatic hubs with manuals. On the '95-up you could do it by simply installing a switch to control the transfer case clutch engagement, but your transfer case doesn't have that option.

-Joe
 






easymoney said:
so what about the electric motor in the transfer case that tells the front axel to engage or disengage.....i wonder if there is a way to run that motor manualy to a switch...
nope as soon as the front drive shaft turns it will engage 4WD (example ) with your explorer (91-94) supported by jack stands tranny in nuetral (block the back wheels) and in 2wd mode rotate your front driveshaft (one from t-case to front end) and listen for the front wheel to click and start spinning... fi the front drive shaft move then the front end will lock in so you have 3 options
1) twin stick
2) manual lock outs
3) by some kind (gear box) to add between you front drive shaft and t-case to dis-engage it.. like a winch on a tow truck..

so the cheepest ideal is manual lock outs...
 






Mile Marker made a viscous coupling that you could put in line with the front driveshaft to get full-time 4WD, so you could leave the hubs locked. I don't know if they still make it. I'm sure that it would require shortening the driveshaft.


Bob
 






sounds like your best bet are some Warn or MileMarker manual hubs.
 






Even with the Manual hubsand the Transfer case in 4WL you may experience some binding. Remember that when the transfer case is locked in, it's turning the front drive shaft which is turning the front axles. Even though gthose front axles aren't pulling the front wheels around, they are Rotating as you make your Tight turns. The Axles Joints might still bind a bit.
http://4x4cyberstore.com/website/warn_hub_ford.html
 






Tony H said:
Even with the Manual hubsand the Transfer case in 4WL you may experience some binding. Remember that when the transfer case is locked in, it's turning the front drive shaft which is turning the front axles. Even though gthose front axles aren't pulling the front wheels around, they are Rotating as you make your Tight turns. The Axles Joints might still bind a bit.
http://4x4cyberstore.com/website/warn_hub_ford.html

If the hubs are disengaged, and you have the transfer case engaged, if there are any binding noises at all coming from the front end, you've got bigger problems. When the hubs are disengaged, there is no direct mechanical link to the front wheels, so there's no bind-up that could possibly occur, unless is's something in the driveline (u-joint or axle issue).

-Joe
 






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