Power issue... I don't think it's supposed to do this. (Video Inside)

[Blacksheep Josh]

Well the amp requires an 80amp supply of power... this thing has 2 power inputs and 2 grounds. I have 4 gauge wire running to the back (80amp fuse like 8 inches away from battery), the 4 gauge wire goes into a distribution block which breaks the power into 2 8-gauge inputs for power. Also has 2 8-gauge outputs for grounds which is 3 feet or less of wire I'd say.

So a stout battery and a capacitor.

I'm assuming this but let me make sure, for future "jump starts" it'd probably be best to let the donor car charge my own battery for about 5 minutes before trying to start it as to not wear out the alternator by having it overheat trying to recharge the battery on it's own?

 

[john192009]

help

I have a 1999 that started doing that with my system come to find out bad spot in my wire was making it do it. Take off the hot wire to the amp and try it.

 

[john192009]

help

or also could be the size of the wire i have a 1000 watt amp and have 0 gauge now.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Well 4 gauge is working for me and it's all ready been run in the vehicle, and it's held up perfectly since installation. I think it was user error (i.e. MY FAULT) along the line. I definitely think I'm going to install a better battery and alternator.

Down the line however I am going to install another battery in the rear, probably in the cubby hole or someplace concealed. Plans down the line are for 4 12" CVR's so I'll need them anyways. But I'm going to start wiring things in right and taking my time on it.

 

[rhauf]

Check for fusable links. there is often one near the solenoid where the power wire (going to the fuse box) connects to the battery cable. a partially-bad fusable link could do this. I suspect the problem is between the solenoid and the fuse box. if worse comes to worse, run a new wire (12 gauge or larger) from the fuse box to the battery + and i think that will fix you're problem.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

I have an extra ground wire connected from the body of the Explorer to the battery, I also have an extra wire connecting the solenoid to the fusebox as well...

When I replaced the battery cables I saw no such fusable links anywhere. At least from Battery to Starter, Solenoid to Starter, and Battery to Solenoid. No links were in site. But when I get back from Christmas I'll start looking into it and inspecting ALL the wires for the harness that connects to the alternator and see whats up.

 

[my pos mounty]

Well the amp requires an 80amp supply of power... this thing has 2 power inputs and 2 grounds. I have 4 gauge wire running to the back (80amp fuse like 8 inches away from battery), the 4 gauge wire goes into a distribution block which breaks the power into 2 8-gauge inputs for power. Also has 2 8-gauge outputs for grounds which is 3 feet or less of wire I'd say.

So a stout battery and a capacitor.

I'm assuming this but let me make sure, for future "jump starts" it'd probably be best to let the donor car charge my own battery for about 5 minutes before trying to start it as to not wear out the alternator by having it overheat trying to recharge the battery on it's own?

Completely refrain from jumpstarts. Dont run your stereo system without the engine running (that thing is a HUGE power eater) and you shouldn't need it. If you have your 130 amp alternator, install the capacitors inline, and get that "stout" battery in there (and try to get that second battery in BEFORE the other mods) hopefully you will be all set.

 

[kert0307]

When I replaced the battery cables I saw no such fusable links anywhere. At least from Battery to Starter, Solenoid to Starter, and Battery to Solenoid. No links were in site. But when I get back from Christmas I'll start looking into it and inspecting ALL the wires for the harness that connects to the alternator and see whats up.

I think there is a fusible link from the alt to the battery.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

I'll look at the alternator harness, I think I know where the fusible link it in that. Almost looks like something that clicks together, but if memory serves me right it looks like it goes to the fuse box first. But I haven't looked at it in a while, and probably won't look at it again until after the New Year.

I know incorrect jumpstarts helped my alternator to fail, but why should I completely refrain from them? What do I do if my battery dies then?

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Okays guys, update time:
NEW ALTERNATOR AND IT WORKS!!!
But I'm still having a bouncing voltmeter at times... especially going over bumps in the road seems to make it worse. The headlights are also dimming as well when the voltmeter goes down if that helps. On smooth road or idling it'll sit rock steady, so it's definitely movement oriented.

I'm thinking it's:
1. Possibly a bad ground, I'm going to double check the Engine Block to Battery grounds, Body to Battery grounds, and add in "frame to battery" and "alternator (lower screw) to battery" as well.
2. I think the battery terminal for my positive battery cables may be failing as well. It's the ****tiest of the group, so I'm going to have it done how it should be for once.

This is what I need to know now, where are other ground spots that vehicle uses that I can check? Where is the ground for the instrument cluster located? Anything you can add will help. I'm going to be doing this tomorrow.

 

[shawn294]

i dont know if any one else noticed in the video that his oil pressure gauge was reading low, not sure if that would have anything to do with it. My oil pressure gauge always reads closer to the high side. just a thought.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Oil gauge is an idiot light anyways... it was a quart low anyways. That's usually where it sits, there isn't to much movement from that area.