Power points and charging an ebike battery | Ford Explorer Forums

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Power points and charging an ebike battery

Chyron

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Kelowna
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2015 Explorer XLT
Has anyone tried charging their ebike battery with an inverter plugged into a power point. My charger draws 240 watts and the manual says 180 watts is the limit. Thx for any help.
 



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Has anyone tried charging their ebike battery with an inverter plugged into a power point. My charger draws 240 watts and the manual says 180 watts is the limit. Thx for any help.
Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
No one has posted that they have done that. I'm guessing that you will blow a fuse. Does your charger usually plug into a 110V AC outlet?

Peter
 






Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
No one has posted that they have done that. I'm guessing that you will blow a fuse. Does your charger usually plug into a 110V AC outlet?

Peter
Yes it does
 






You will have to get a inverter that is rated for a higher capacity than the charger is if you don't want to have problems.

There are some that will just connect to the battery with alligator clips where others can be permanently mounted somewhere that it is easy to access the plugs. If you mount one remotely pay attention to the wire size that you need to run from the battery to it.

Or you can look into a adapter than may be able to use a power port outlet but there still may be a problem with the power that the charger may draw and will blow fuses.
 












Do you have the 110V outlet on the back of the console?

Peter
He does, but the charger pulls more wattage than the factory 180. As mentioned an inverter to handle this is your best option. Almost any inverter that’s not a cigar lighter plug in would do.

Are you sure the 120v outlet is a max of 180 watts? That’s only an amp and a half. Pretty weak to be useful for very much.

I’ve never considered using an inverter for this as my bike takes several hours to charge.
 






The 110 V outlet on the back of the console has a 150 W load limit. Just checked the Manual.

Peter
 






Amp and a half output doesn't seem like much, but remember at 120V, that's 15A on a 12V electrical system, even more if this is the inverter output rating rather than input, considering it's not 100% efficient. 15A is a very common limit on lighter outlets.

Best practice is at least a 400W inverter, wired straight to the battery, use a 30A or higher relay to power it, activated by a vehicle circuit live with engine on if worried about forgetting it and draining the vehicle battery. Put a 25A-30A fuse on the circuit right after the (Explorer) battery. Use 14ga or lower connection wire.
 






Amp and a half output doesn't seem like much, but remember at 120V, that's 15A on a 12V electrical system, even more if this is the inverter output rating rather than input, considering it's not 100% efficient. 15A is a very common limit on lighter outlets.

Best practice is at least a 400W inverter, wired straight to the battery, use a 30A or higher relay to power it, activated by a vehicle circuit live with engine on if worried about forgetting it and draining the vehicle battery. Put a 25A-30A fuse on the circuit right after the (Explorer) battery. Use 14ga or lower connection wire.
They easily could have set it up on a 30 amp circuit. It’s not like this needs to be powered by the lighter circuit. If you’re fusing it at 30amps it should be on a 10awg wire.
 






^ I interpreted it as, this is an add-on inverter intended/hoped to be plugged into a conventional faux-lighter outlet. Those are plastic, not metal and ceramic like a real lighter outlet, so can't tolerate the heat of much more than 15A if the contacts were dodgy... plus cost cutting on Ford's part, not to wire and design it capable of 30A+ for the few owners who would make use of that.

There's kind of a gulf, in that someone might want to power a laptop, but power tools, things that heat up, etc, that operate from 110/120V, could easily need far more than 30A through an inverter to reach 110V, considering the output is still under 4A @ 110VAC.

It's just not set up for that, when you consider the alternator may not even have 30A to spare if vehicle is just sitting idling, with the low pulley RPM resulting in a fraction of rated alternator output. They don't want to set it up so that if you are using typical accessories and staying within the design/rated limits, that even with engine running (idling), you'd be draining the battery faster than the alternator can keep up with.

There are at least a couple ways around that (oversized alternator and/or ramping up engine RPM based on sensed voltage both come to mind, or smaller alternator pulley for higher ratio/RPMs), but apparently there just wasn't enough perceived customer demand to get it to happen, plus higher drag from larger alternator, or higher fuel consumption from ramping up idle RPM, are considered *evil things* in this !@#$ green era. Ironic when it's to charge an eBike, but there are a lot of things that don't make sense about solutions posed and mandated made by the green movement... as if free market/customer-choice couldn't decide!
 






I don’t think it’s an add on. I used to have a 1200 watt power inverter, and never had any charging issues.
 






^ The engine alternator can't produce anywhere near 1200W at idle... suppose a 130A alternator, with a 2:1 ratio with engine RPM. At idle it's probably capable of about ~30A-40A total output, to power the engine and rest of vehicle in addition to the inverter.
 






It doesn’t have to provide it all, it comes out of the reserve of the battery. Most big electrical loads drop off drastically after they are started. It’d easily have enough juice to run an inverter to charge any ebike battery. You’d be driving anyways, no one is charging an ebike for hours while the truck just sits and idles.

I’ve built MANY stereos that’d easily pull 30-50 amps, and have never drained the battery of a running vehicle.
 






Do you have the 110V outlet on the back of the console?

Peter
No, just a power port. These ebike batteries take so much juice, I think they'd drain the car battery if I hooked them up directly. Better just to find a place to plug them in
 






If you’re trying to charge then off a sitting car, it’d never work. They really don’t take that much juice, cost wise. Definitely not worth idling the car trying to charge them.
 






The ideal situation for charging the E bike batteries would be while you are driving down the road to a different location.

Other than that pick up a Honda Eu2200i Generator to charge them, but then that may be defeating your purpose of a E bike if you want to lessen your carbon footprint.
 






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