Power Window problem - Sport Trac

[jmunday23]

I have a 2002 Explorer Sport Trac with power windows that do not work. The rear windshield window works, but that is on a different relay. So, I've checked the fuse panel in dash and under the hood. The in dash fuse is fine, and the fuses under the hood are not the type that you can see if they are broken. Just for some additional info about the problem - for about a week leading up to now the windows were working off and on. I would have to slam the door shut multiple times to get them to work. I'm not sure if this means faulty wiring or what. If anyone has had this problem or knows a fix, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Joe

 

[Sams01XplrSprt]

maybe ur motor is going out on the windows

 

[Dopler174]

It sounds like you need a power window switch OR a power window module. The module is located behind the door panel. It should be a blue or a grey box.

 

[HerSportTrac]

Ok I need help my widows every so often would quit mess with the door and they would be ok well now they just stopped fuses are all good both inside and under hood wire test says no power getting to door Tried everything all wire are good what could it be

 

[CHRISXPLOR]

i got the same problem with my driver side door!!!

 

[HerSportTrac]

Hey everyone Good news on the window problem mines fixed cost nothing here is what you do open the drivers door you need a 9 mm ratchet take the screw out of the wire harness in the door pop that out peel back the black cover sock you will see right away the blue wire and a yellow wire check those they are common for breaks <~~ mine were re attach and windows work

 

[Sams01XplrSprt]

good work on fixing ur window

 

[litppunk]

Hey guys. My sport Trac has come down with an unusual power window problem I can't seem to diagnose. All four windows are rolled up and won't roll back down. The roof and back windows function fine, which makes sense as Jmonday said, they are on a different relay. My first thought was window lock, the next a bad switch/ground etc... in the main controller. Further investigation shows the main controller seems to be getting power, and I don't see anymore fuses to check in the manual. What am I missing?

I even pulled back the door sock as much as I could manage and still be able to get it back on, and all the wires appeared fine. Did I test something wrong, or is there something else in-between the controllers and all the windows? A fuse I keep overlooking, or something? There was no warning or working not working back and forth before failure, except all the windows seemed weak before they suddenly stopped working at all.

 

[sr139fox]

My bet is the controller on the driver door. It does a lot and hard to trouble shoot. You can get them from Rock Auto.
Dave P.

 

[koda2000]

When I bought by '01 ST last year the only door window that worked was the driver's door. I tested the motors in the other 3 doors and found they all worked. I trouble shot the driver's master switch and found it to be the issue. I bought a new master switch off eBay for around $26, installed it and all the windows have been working perfectly ever since.

 

[litppunk]

Thanks guys, I'll try that.

 

[litppunk]

nope. Just got the part and tried it out, then further testing and looking back in the book and trying more stuff. I am still dumbfounded. maybe the wire harness? That will be a pain to deal with though, anyone have any other insights as to what it might be before I rip all the cover off the dirvers door and thread wire harnesses through mouse holes?

 

[koda2000]

It could be broken wire(s) in the driver's door bundle. I had actually checked mine before testing and replacing the master window switch.

Don't be afraid to remove the driver's door to get access to the wire bundle. The wire barrel is held together by a 10mm bolt. The bolt may be hidden under a black plastic, which that you can pry off with a pick or small screw driver. You will have to cut off the wire-tie thingy that seals the rubber boot to the barrel connector (you can just replace it with a regular plastic wire tie when you're done). As the 10mm bolt is unscrewed it does not come out, the 2 halves of the barrel connector just separate.

To remove the door there are just a couple of 13mm bolts that hold the hinges to the "A" pillar. There is little-to-no adjustment to these bolts, so when you reinstall the door it will line up easily. Have someone help you to balance the door on a piece of 2x4 on top of a floor jack.

It is not uncommon for wires inside the boot to break. This happens because the driver's door is open/closed a million times over its life. Also check for any broken wires behind the driver's kick panel.

 

[koda2000]

It could be a broken wire(s) in the driver's door bundle. I had actually checked mine before testing and replacing the master window switch.

Don't be afraid to remove the driver's door to get access to the wire bundle. The wire barrel is held together by a 10mm bolt. The bolt may be hidden under a black plastic cap (located in the top-center of the connector) which you can pry off with a pick or small screw driver. You will have to cut off the wire-tie thingy that seals the rubber boot to the barrel connector (you can just replace it with a regular plastic wire tie when you're done). As the 10mm bolt is unscrewed it does not come out, the 2 halves of the barrel connector just separate.

To remove the door there are just a couple of 13mm bolts that hold the hinges to the "A" pillar. There is little-to-no adjustment to these bolts, so when you reinstall the door it will line up easily. Have someone help you to balance the door on a piece of 2x4 on top of a floor jack.

It is not uncommon for wires inside the boot to break. This happens because the driver's door is open/closed a million times over its life. Also check for any broken wires behind the driver's kick panel.

Note: All the door windows are wired through the driver's door, so a bad connection/broken wire there can cause some or all the windows not to work, or to work intermittently.

 

[swshawaii]

Did you check the power distribution box relays under the hood?

#47A (20A) Windows/Roof
#48 — Window Safety Relay

Pages 166-168
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/01p27og6e.pdf

 

[litppunk]

Yea I checked them, I knew the #47, wouldn't be since the roof and rear window still work, but ended up checking it anyways, just because I was running out of easily check-able/replaceable things to check.

I'll Check the Wire barrel. Thanks.

 

[koda2000]

It

Yea I checked them, I knew the #47, wouldn't be since the roof and rear window still work, but ended up checking it anyways, just because I was running out of easily check-able/replaceable things to check.

I'll Check the Wire barrel. Thanks.

It wouldn't have been a fuse because you said that sometimes after slamming the driver's door the windows worked. Fuses don't work intermittently.

 

[litppunk]

no I never said it was intermittent. I said the opposite, I said it just stopped working without warning one day. I did relate back to someone else's all four windows, but not roof or back window though.

 

[koda2000]

no I never said it was intermittent. I said the opposite, I said it just stopped working without warning one day. I did relate back to someone else's all four windows, but not roof or back window though.

I thought you were the original poster to this thread. apparently you're not. The OP had said his windows worked funny and then stopped working.

The OP said - "for about a week leading up to now the windows were working off and on. I would have to slam the door shut multiple times to get them to work. I'm not sure if this means faulty wiring or what."

 

[litppunk]

Yeah, I thought that was the case. I'll let yall know once I've gotten the door of and taken a more detailed look at it.