After much research of threads and input from 410 Fortune, I have resolved the problem of malfunctioning and "no functioning" power window switches and power door lock switches. Thread search solutions ranged from cleaning switches and contacts to hot wiring power, replacing motors, fuses, relays and the like. On the simple theory of trying the easiest first and starting at the source before chasing the problem elsewhere in the car, I cleaned all switches and contacts and, magic, all functions have been restored. Here is what I did, so maybe you can try it too. This was on a '91 XLT 4 door. Concepts should be similar to identical on most Phase 1's.
1. I first replaced one totally non-functioning power window switch (the front passenger door) with a new one with no effect. Don't do this until AFTER cleaning fails.
2. I read in one post that the wiring of the door lock switch contains the ground for all door switches, window and lock. So, I decided to carefully but thoroughly clean all switches and contacts, not just the malfunctioning power window switches.
You will need a pair of small slotted and one Phillips head screw driver, some rubbing alcohol and Q-tips, some electrical contact cleaner (Radio Shack - try to get a spray can with a brush attachment for scrubbing), an old soft toothbrush and some towels or rags to protect the interior from tuner cleaner as you work. Also use a small cup or tray to hold small parts.
3. Starting with the front passenger door (the easiest), gently pry the switch button assembly out of the door using a slotted screwdriver. There is a slot for this on the rear edge of the plate surrounding the switch button. The other edge has two small hooks that grip the door's cut-out for the switch plate. When you pry up the rear edge (there is small spring clip which you depress with the screwdriver), you can slide the cover plate gently backwards and the switch button and the plate will come free. Just take your time. The attached wires will extend a few inches by gently pulling. NOTE, the rear windows' switches look identical but have a healthier spring clip holding the switch cover plate down. Just be very gentle.
3. Turn the cover plate and switch assembly over. The switch assembly is attached to the cover plate (which holds the switch assemblies in place) with two Phillips screws. Gently remove them. If they won't easily turn, don't force them as you may snap off the plastic instead, as I did. Loosen a tight screw with contact cleaner or WD 40 or whatever.
4. With the screws removed, the switch assembly will then slide out of the cover plate. Set the cover plate aside. There will be one switch assembly for the door lock and one for the power window. They are attached to the wire harness plugs (female receptacles) via brass (male) pins. These pins are substantial so you can pry the plugs up with a slotted screwdriver to get them started then unplug them with your hand.
5 The switch assembly is now free of the wiring harness and receptacles. Carefully inspect all wire connections where the wires connect to the aluminum female receptacles for the switches which are imbedded in a plastic assembly. Repair any suspect connections by re-soldering. Details of soldering not discussed here.
6. Now remove the plastic switch assembly cover (plastic box) containing the external plastic rocker or toggle switch (marked L or U or U or D). Note the four plastic pins holding the very thin plastic box on. Gently, gently pry the side of the box over the pins until the bottom drops out, revealing delicate copper "telegraph" switches attached to the copper pin plugs.
7. Cover the work area and the inside surface of the door with towels or rags.
8. Clean any gunk inside the cover box with alcohol and Q-tips and clean around the external plastic switches the same way. Do not use Q-tips on the copper telegraph switches as they will shred the cotton and foul the contacts.
9. Liberally spray contact cleaner all over the copper telegraph switches and the pin plugs and gently scrub inside the guts of the switch with the brush provided with the contact cleaner can or using an old very soft toothbrush. Spray again and leave to sit and stew.
10. Liberally spray contact cleaner inside the female receptacles attached to the wire harness and aggressively scrub inside the receptacles with a small brush. Spray again, scrub again, then spray again and let stew. I suspect these female receptacles are the real weak link in the electrical connection.
11. Wipe off and replace the box cover of the switch assembly, then again wipe off any remaining excess contact cleaner. Wipe excess contact cleaner off the wiring harness assembly and plug the switches back in.
12. Turn on the ignition ACC switch or the engine and test the switch, both at the door and from the driver's master switches.
13. If at least the door switch works fine, reassemble everything and move on. If not, repeat the cleaning at least once more. If that's doesn't work, you have other problems. Search the threads for ideas. As a next step, try replacing the switch. A new one from FORD for the passenger door costs about $18. The driver’s master switches cost about $85. Otherwise, there are lots of threads on this issue. In my case, the switch was fine. The contacts were compromised. Cleaning did the trick.
14. For the driver's master switches, the process is pretty much the same except the switch cover box for the power window switches (4) and for the window lock push button switch is all one piece, and the thickness of the bundle of wires makes it a little more difficult to manipulate the assembly while you remove the screws that hold the cover on. The pins holding the switch assembly cover on, this time 8 instead of 4, work the same way, but the big switch box cover won't come off until you also remove the push button window lock switch (button). It removes by being lifted straight up. It has a female square hole that fits over a white plastic (male) tab, about 1/8th inch square, which is attached to the wire harness. This plug is a tight fit and takes a bit of urging to get off. I used a small flat head screwdriver but you have to be very, very careful and patient and don’t twist the button. Try and lift it straight up, maybe using two screwdrivers at once. (It’s hard to grip with just your fingers.) Once the push button is off, the cleaning and re-assembly process is the same as with the passenger door. Replacing the window lock button, press firmly until you hear and feel it snap into place.
The rear doors contain only a power window switch and no door lock switches but, again, are a bit more difficult to get out of the door initially.
I had great success with cleaning, but I did so very carefully and very thoroughly. I still broke off one of the screw attachments and had to super glue it back with some plastic strips for bracing. Be gentle, work slowly, protect your car from fluid, and good luck.
. any ideas? havent had a chance to check any fuses yet, but obviously that will be the first place i will start when i get a moment to do so. now lets say its not a fuse problem...any other areas i can check or anything i can do? thanks in advance. btw...92 explorer eb.
