Pressurized coolant ?'s

[2000SL2]

OK, I had to remove the drivers side head on the wife's '93 XLT. When I put it all back together the #4 cylinder filled with coolant and the coolant system got pressurized. I thought the problem was with the papery Felpro lower intake manifold gasket that was a PITA to install. I took everything apart again and put it all back together again using Ford OEM gaskets including the newer metal intake manifold gasket. well, this time it wasn't so bad. But, it had a lot of white smoke coming out of the tail pipe and the coolant system got pressurized again. It wasn't as bad this time. The first time coolant shot out of the radiator cap when removed. This time just a little bubbling could be heard. I have been stuck on the intake manifold gasket, but, I've been thinking that the pressurization of the coolant system could only be the head gasket. I used new head bolts and followed the torque procedures as specified in the Haynes manual. Perhaps I should just try tightening the head bolts a little more? Also, could the coolant system become pressurized if the lower intake manifold didn't seal? I'm thinking not. Thanks!!!

Brian

 

[liqhx2]

could be one or more of three things cracked head damaged head gasket cracked block did you have your head checked after you pulled it? the early 4.0 where not the strongest and are prone to cracks, could have you damaged the gasket while you where putting on the head? and # 3 is very unlikly i've never heard of a 4.0 with a cracked block without extream heat so if you have not had your head checked i would do that when ever you have to pull head you should alway have them leak and crack checked if the head comes back normal then i would put a new gasket in and follow instructions to a T there might be updated tourqe requirments if you have a old book i would probobly call a dealer maybe someone can give you updated info is the specs have been changed also are you using OEM ford gaskets? i would not use any others

ok this is on fmc's site
Position cylinder head gaskets on cylinder block (6010) . Install cylinder head locating dowels. Position the cylinder heads onto the head gaskets and locating dowels.
NOTE: The cylinder head(s) and intake manifold are torqued alternately and in sequence to make sure of correct fit and gasket crush.

Install and tighten cylinder head bolts, in the sequence shown, to 30 Nm (22 ft-lb).
do you have the sequence?

 

[liqhx2]

NOTE: Once applied, the silicone sealer will set up in approximately 15 minutes. The intake manifold must be installed immediately after the sealer is applied.

Apply Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-BA (ESB-M4G92-A and ESE-M4G195-A) or equivalent to the block and cylinder head mating surfaces at the four corners shown. Install the head gasket and again apply sealer to the four corner locations.
Item Part Number Description
1 E801477-S2 Bolt
2 12A648 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
Tighten to 12-18 Nm
(9-13 Ft-Lb)
3 8591 Water Pump
4 E805676-S72 Stud. Tighten to 8-10 Nm (6-7 Ft-Lb)
5 9439 Intake Manifold Gasket
6 9424 Lower Intake Manifold
7 E822110-S72 Nut. Tighten to 9-13 Nm
(7-9 Ft-Lb)
8 10884 Water Temperature Indicator Sender Unit

Position the intake manifold on the two guide studs and install the nuts and bolts hand-tight. Tighten the intake manifold bolts in sequence to 4-8 Nm (3-6 ft-lb).
Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 70 Nm (52 ft-lb).
Tighten the intake manifold to 8-15 Nm (6-11 ft-lb).
Rotate the cylinder head bolts 80 to 85 degrees tighter in sequence for the final cylinder head torque step.
Finish tightening the intake manifold in sequence to 15-21 Nm (11-15 ft-lb) and then to 21-25 Nm (15-18 ft-lb).
Install valve push rods. Install rocker arms (6564) as outlined in this section.
Apply Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-BA (ESB-M4G92-A and ESE-M4G195-A) or equivalent to the four locations at the joint where the intake manifold and the cylinder heads meet (as shown).
Install valve covers as outlined in this section.
Install the upper intake manifold and tighten the nuts to 20-25 Nm (15-18 ft-lb).
Install air conditioner compressor on bracket and screw retaining air conditioner manifold tube to upper intake manifold. Tighten compressor bolts to 21-29 Nm (16-21 ft-lb).
Install the exhaust inlet pipe and R.H. exhaust manifold and L.H. exhaust manifold .
Install the spark plugs .
Install the ignition coil and assembled ignition coil mounting strap (12043).
Install the generator .
Install drive belt over pulleys. Make sure that all V-grooves make proper contact with pulleys.
Lift tensioner and slide drive belt under drive belt tensioner . Release tensioner to rest pulley on drive belt .
Install the A/C compressor mounting bracket with assembled power steering pump to the cylinder heads .
Install the A/C compressor (19D629) (if equipped).
Fill and bleed the cooling system as detailed in Section 03-03.
NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the strategy.

Connect the battery ground cable at the battery.

 

[2000SL2]

Hey, thanks man! I pretty much had all of that in my Haynes manual. I followed the sequences and torque specs. I don't believe the head is cracked. I didn't have any problems before this. Head gasket is a brand new Ford OEM one. That gasket was easy to install. I'm thinking it just needs tightened down more. It was done to spec so I don't know why it needs more. I'm thinking it has to be the head gasket though. I just don't see how the intake manifold gasket could let the coolant system get pressurized. When I started it I could hear bubbling in what I think was the heater core in the passenger side where the heater hoses meet the firewall. I guess I'll try to tighten the head bolts down some more and see what happens.

Brian

 

[liqhx2]

if the bolts are tourqed to spec then no more tighning should be required the specs are there so that you do not over tighten the bolts because overtightning can lead to cracks and warpage so if they are to spec then something else is wrong i've done to many heads to know that if you coolant in the cyls. and your to spec somthing else is wrong (cracked warped head or block)

 

[liqhx2]

have you checked your #4 cyl again? put pressure into the system with a pressure tester let it sit there for a couple hours then take the #4 plug out and take a paper towle and roll it and put it at the opening of the plug hole thurn over the motor and the towle should pop out and if there is antifreez on it then you know that its leaking into that cyl

 

[elkhunter]

You could also use a spark plug drilled with a tire valve stem brazed into it or buy a factory one and pressurize #4 when it is at bdc with both valves closed. If there is a leak your radiater will bubble or you will here air escaping from the oil fill cap. If everything is normal you might here a slight leak but if your head is cracked, like both on my 4.0, you will here a lot.

 

[Brain]

Did you oil the head bolts before torqing them? How about cleaning out the threads of the head bolts? Either of these could lead to a proper torque reading but a low true gasket clamping/crushing force. A bad lower intake manifold gasket seal (the one that sits on both heads, the block, and the manifold) wouldn't lead to cooling system pressurization, because the manifold is under vacuum condition (it would suck coolant into the intake track). The head bolts are TTY bolts, so you can't just pull them off, clean, oil, and retighten them, as you run the risk of breaking them. I'm not sure how you did the inspection, head and block surface prep, or installation so I can't really comment on that. I know that I worked pretty hard on getting the gasket surfaces clean (surface prep polishing disks, degreaser, etc.) before installation, because I've read where skipping an hour of prep costs another six hours of reinstallation time (and some $). Good luck.