Problem shifting from 1-2

[BillJ]

Shift Solenoid Codes

Below is an explanation of the shift solenoid codes. Basically the PCM compares your shift points to stored good ones and is blaming the shift solenoids for the problem. There can be other reasons then bad solenoids. The problem can be in the VB, did you drop the pan, change the fluid, adjust the bands, re-torque the VB bolts? Has the ford upgrade and new seperator plate been put into the tranny (see the 5R55E VB rebuild diary)?

http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/diagnostics/pdf/obdsm962.pdf

Shift Solenoids
The Shift Solenoid (SSA, SSB, and SSC) output circuits are checked for opens and shorts by the PCM by monitoring the status of a feedback circuit from the output driver (P0750 SSA, P0755 SSB, P0760 SSC). The shift solenoids are also checked functionally. Since the 4R44E transmission does have a turbine speed sensor, the actual gear ratio can be computed any time the transmission is not shifting and the vehicle is not coasting. An actual gear ratio is computed in each gear and compared to the predicted gear ratio in order to determine the actual gear pattern obtained during an upshift sequence. This information is then used to determine which shift solenoid is malfunctioning. For example, if SS1 is shorted to power or is hydraulically stuck in that position, the 1-2-3-4 commanded shifts will actually result in a 2-2-4-4 shift pattern. The unique shift pattern is used to determine which shift solenoid is malfunctioning. (P0751 SSA, P0756 SSB, P0761 SSC)

 

[Booger666]

OK, ripped the pan off today, Hafta figure how to get the connector off the trans, looks like a metal clip of some sort. I checked the wires and they look good to that point, no problems seen with the wire loom. I dont know if they drove it with the first solenoid going and a second one went, but, the fluid had a nasty burnt smell, looked brownish with a sludge in the bottom of the pan, and it was overfilled. Anyone have a good recommendation for a drain plug I can install in the pan so I dont have to go through that mess again lol. not sure where to go from here, but it sits there on stands with the cover off I dont know if the ford upgrade kit was put into the trans since it is new to me (bought it off my brother in law after it came into his salvage yard for $500) So would it be safe to get the kit and take the VB off, put the kit in, adjust the bands, and re-torque everything?

Thanks again for all the help

 

[BillJ]

For the drain plug see this post in the Frankentranny stickie:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1330166&postcount=66

As far as the next steps I would recommend to drop the VB and:
1) Install Ford upgrade and new seperator plate (see VB rebuild diary)
2) clean and test all the solenoids
3) take apart all VB bores, clean and reassemble
3) consider installing a shift kit in VB (see diary)
4) adjust bands and install new filter

Remember to align and torque the VB properly!

This sounds like alot but if you take your time it is not too hard.

 

[Booger666]

OK, Ordered the parts I need today and have a problem, the vavle body seperator plate F5TZ-7A008-CA is discontinued through Fast Parts. Any idea on an updated item number, Also I checked my local autozone for the drain plug assembly and they didnt have it. Still looking though, Any help and ideas would be appreciated greatly. Any way of modifying the existing plate to do what I need?

Thanks again
Booger
(mad scientist in training)

 

[BrooklynBay]

There is a new bonded separator plate which replaces the old one. The old one uses separate gaskets. The new one has the gaskets bonded onto the separator plate. WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com, and WWW.Axiom.Com should have it. I don't know if they sell drain plugs. JC Whitney, and Summit Racing should have them.

 

[KarmicFlea]

Hi Explorer Gurus...

I'm also having a problem with the tranny in my '93 Explorer XLT. I had the transmission rebuilt about 15,000 miles ago, and the people who did it told me they changed everything but the transmission casing. Now all of a sudden during the last week it won't shift right. I pull out of the driveway first thing in the morning, and I can't get it into 2nd. If I cycle from 1st into 2nd and then into D when I leave my house it works fine all day.

As a preliminary check I checked the ATF level thinking it might be low. It turns out that it was overfull. On the dipstick it looked like it was a full 2x overfull. So, I brought it to a oil change shop near where I work and had them to a flush and fill on the tranny fluid. After yesterdays fluid change all levels were normal. This morning the stick showed that the pan was overfull again by the same amount as before I got the flush and fill done. I verified all the levels of my other fluids thinking that maybe I had a coolant leak in my radiator and coolant was mixing with the ATF. This does not seem to be the case. Anitfreeze, oil, and PS and Break fluids all normal.

Does anyone have an idea about this? I know very little about trannies, but I know I don't want to have to replace it again after 15,000 miles.

Thanks in Advance.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! The level is higher when it is hot. Make sure you are checking it on level ground.

 

[BillJ]

OK, Ordered the parts I need today and have a problem, the vavle body seperator plate F5TZ-7A008-CA is discontinued through Fast Parts. Any idea on an updated item number, Also I checked my local autozone for the drain plug assembly and they didnt have it. Still looking though, Any help and ideas would be appreciated greatly. Any way of modifying the existing plate to do what I need?

Thanks again
Booger
(mad scientist in training)

For the separator plate part number I would ask your local Ford dealer for the correct#. I would not modify the existing plate and besides the plate is not very expensive (~ $18) why take a chance.

Keep trying locally for the drain plug kit. I believe I got mine at a local Autozone or Advance store. You can also get it online:

http://www.superior-transmission.com/products/problem_solvers/drain_plug.htm

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/Transmission_pan_drain_plug_kit_p/600-000013010.htm

When you do get your drain plug follow the suggestions in the following thread for proper installation:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140987&page=6&pp=20

 

[KarmicFlea]

Welcome to this forum! The level is higher when it is hot. Make sure you are checking it on level ground.

Ok BrooklynBay. I checked the ATF level twice yesterday (cold and hot). Both times on flat ground, running, and in park. When cold the fluid level is overfull, but when hot its normal.

What components in the Tranny hold fluid when the engine is off besides the trans pan? What I think is happening (and I'm no pro by any means) is one of the other systems is dumping extra ATF back into the pan when pressure in the whole system is lost. ie. the truck gets shut off.

I spoke with someone at the lube shop I previously went to. He says that it might be a failing torque converter. What do you all think?

KF

 

[Booger666]

OK, So now here we are, talked to 2 different dealerships today and they both told me only way to get the seperator plate is to buy it with the valve body $895.00 (I laughed). I gave one dealership the part number I had listed for the plate and finally they were able to pull it up and order it for me, but, told me if it's the wrong part (because his system doesn't show the item) there are no refunds. Please cross your fingers for me

Booger

 

[BrooklynBay]

How much did the dealer charge for the separator plate? To answer the other question on where fluid is stored other than in the pan, it could be in the torque converter, pan, lines, cooler, clutch packs, pistons, filter, passage ways inside of the valve body, etc. After a period of time, the pan might get more fluid accumulation from fluid draining into it, but not a lot. It can't syphon fluid out of the cooler, or converter.

 

[Booger666]

The seperator plate was $14 from the dealer so I figured thats what I need, Sending my brother over there to get it today with a copy of the TSB to see if they list another part. Told him if there is an updated part (ford guy couldnt even find the plate on his own) for him to order it so I can do it right the first time. Parts guy said the part I ordered had a red star next to it like it was a recall or something so I dont know exactly what I'm getting into (in deep though). On a lighter note, can you tell me how the plug on the tranny unplugs, I didnt want to break anything but I see what looks like a metal clip on it.

Thanks
Booger

 

[BrooklynBay]

It should just unplug. If there is a tab holding it down, then carefully lift it up. Could you post a picture of it?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Here's a picture from Glacier991's photo gallery:

 

[Booger666]

OK, Replaced the valve body with a rebiult one yesterday and I still have the same problem after installing the ford mod kit and superior kit. I gave it a few rides around the block and check the fluid and added as needed untill now it's where it should be, but, I still get a code in the computer about Selenoid B not working properly or in an off condition and it still won't shift properly so I'm hopeing that my liberal use of petrolium jelly is the cluprit and it will clear up or I will have to contact the people I bought the rebuilt valve body from. I should add that I checked the resistance on the solenoids and all were withing spec and seemed clean. I'll update as things progress but any (I mean ANY) ideas are appreciated at this point. The wire harness appeared fine, I torqued everything to spec, installed the drain plug and it's holding fluid (thank god) and everything seemed to go well.
Help me please


Booger

 

[BillJ]

Questions?

Did you adjust the bands? Not sure on the 4r55e but on the 5r55e the front band is applied on second gear.

When you torgue the VB did you do it to the high end of the spec in 3-4 passes?

On the Superior shift kit , did you install the EPC riser (the tap splice resistor to the the EPC valve)?

If you take off the pan again, maybe switching the solenoids around would help eliminate a bad solenoid?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check each wire on the internal harness with a continuity tester. Reset the PCM if you see that everything checks out OK. Clean the contacts with contact cleaner, and put in some antioxidant on the harness connector.

 

[Wrench]

I would like to recommend you test the trans wiring and the individual soleniod resistence by unplugging the external wiring connector from the side of trans and measuring the resistance of all the solenoids from there. This will prove the internal wiring and solenoid condition with only a bit of time on your part. You may wish to do this while trans at normal operating temp. All said and done, you may still have a malfunctioning check ball inside one of the solenoids but at least you have eliminated the internal wiring as a possible culprit.

 

[Booger666]

OK, Here's what I did today (sorry, weekends are the only time I get to wrench so I try to mash it all together). I pulled the pan off again, pulled the harness out of the trans and checked it for continuity and if there were wires frayed etc. I cleaned all the contacts with spray contact cleaner, I also swapped out the #2 solenoid with the #3 solenoid on the old VB I have because that one wasn't throwing codes. I checked the resistance on it first though 26.8 ohms. I adjusted the bands and put her all back together. Didn't get to run her much, but, on my trip around the block it didnt seem to make a difference (no codes yet). I didn't install the EPC resistor block but I'm thinking about doing that tomorrow and see what happens. I also checked the torque on the VB while I was in there and yes I brought the torque up in 4 passes up to 95 inch pounds. Also just to be on the safe side I discarded my tranny fluid and put fresh in.

Any other thoughts? Also my tranny seems to make a whine or a hum of sorts at times.

Help I'm trying to keep my spirits up
Booger

 

[Booger666]

OK, It's now Sunday I pulled the pan again and installed the EPC resistor. What I have now is a truck that if you baby it through first it will shift but if you stomp on it it'll just run out and not shift. I drove it around for a while but it doesn't throw any codes as of yet. I'm going to drive it back and forth to work as normal and see what happens. I do still have a whine from the trans every so often but it seems to stop or quiet down when I put it in gear. Any ideas on this one?

Thanks again for all your time and patience
Booger