Problem with check engine light-emision problem-

[Wild Cat]

Hi guys,
Check engine light is on as well check fuel cap, I took it to the dealer and they said is a problem with the emissions system, aside of this looks like the gas tank is not making vacuum, I already replace the gas cap and didn’t solve the problem.
I ask them if the problem could be that I top off the tank a few times to check the real MPG, they said definitely is that the problem, but they ask $600.00 for the repair.
Is there any procedure to fix it by my self?
My guess is I should purge the return line and replace the sensors but not so sure about it or how to do it.

Any help will be highly appreciated.

 

[Lewbish]

Check engine Emissions fuel tank thing 600$ est

Hello from Lewbish, new member,
I'm sure 600 dollars is too high, but I'm sure how to approach it. I think one of those computer subscriptions to Mitchell auto would get some troubleshooting help. I'm about to do that for mine, I think. I just got my used Explorer.
Lewis Bishop

 

[Lewbish]

From LewBish, I just tried to post a reply and then it opens up for me to reply like I had not already done so.
I need some guidance, I think. Lewis

 

[Lewbish]

My third reply about the check engine light

Wild cat: I apologize for an error in my first reply. I meant to say, I do NOT know how to approach the problem. I just know $600 is too much for this, and I'm afraid I will have to take mine in and get a similar estimate. What I have is a Tire Pressure Monitor error, but the air pressure is up okay. Lewis

 

[mulea]

Hi guys,
Check engine light is on as well check fuel cap, I took it to the dealer and they said is a problem with the emissions system, aside of this looks like the gas tank is not making vacuum, I already replace the gas cap and didn’t solve the problem.
I ask them if the problem could be that I top off the tank a few times to check the real MPG, they said definitely is that the problem, but they ask $600.00 for the repair.
Is there any procedure to fix it by my self?
My guess is I should purge the return line and replace the sensors but not so sure about it or how to do it.

Any help will be highly appreciated.

Hi! I have the EXACTELY SAME PROBLEM with my Explorer Sport '99!!! How did U solved it?!?

Thank you

 

[Squirrelmaster]

Wow, this is a very old thread that Lewbish drug up.

As far as Wild Cat's problem, I'm pretty sure it was the EVAP cannister, as it is meant to catch the excess vapors from the fuel tank and then hold them until they are purged later on. Here's a link that gives you a rough idea of it: http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Fuel/overview.htm . A common problem is people over-filling their gas tanks, and the fuel then fills the vacuum line running to the EVAP cannister. This in turn clogs the system, and in newer vehicles that monitor the EVAP system, throws a code. A good way to begin telling if your EVAP system is done when you go to fill up at the gas station. If the EVAP system is fully functional, you shouldn't hear a great pressure relief when you first start to unscrew the gas cap, as the extra fumes that would build that pressure should have been moved to the cannister. While you may still hear a little hiss, there should be no loud and noticeable whistle.

mulea, EVAP cannisters are not cheap, so your best bet would first locate the vacuum line running from the cannister to the fuel tank and try to make sure it is not clogged. Next you may try to allow the cannister to air out, but really it probably won't do much if it's already full of gas. However, while you allow this to air out, you can also check the vacuum line running from the cannister to the vacuum system for any clogs. Once you've done all this, there really isn't much else you can do besides begin replacing things. Best of luck.

Tom

 

[mulea]

Wow, this is a very old thread that Lewbish drug up.

As far as Wild Cat's problem, I'm pretty sure it was the EVAP cannister, as it is meant to catch the excess vapors from the fuel tank and then hold them until they are purged later on. Here's a link that gives you a rough idea of it: http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Fuel/overview.htm . A common problem is people over-filling their gas tanks, and the fuel then fills the vacuum line running to the EVAP cannister. This in turn clogs the system, and in newer vehicles that monitor the EVAP system, throws a code. A good way to begin telling if your EVAP system is done when you go to fill up at the gas station. If the EVAP system is fully functional, you shouldn't hear a great pressure relief when you first start to unscrew the gas cap, as the extra fumes that would build that pressure should have been moved to the cannister. While you may still hear a little hiss, there should be no loud and noticeable whistle.

mulea, EVAP cannisters are not cheap, so your best bet would first locate the vacuum line running from the cannister to the fuel tank and try to make sure it is not clogged. Next you may try to allow the cannister to air out, but really it probably won't do much if it's already full of gas. However, while you allow this to air out, you can also check the vacuum line running from the cannister to the vacuum system for any clogs. Once you've done all this, there really isn't much else you can do besides begin replacing things. Best of luck.

Tom

Thanks, Tom, for your clues and your link. Actually I can hear just a hiss and nothing else at the gas pump [well, it's still WINTER here in CANADA...!] so the hiss is pretty "quiet"...
On the other hand, the mechanic checked the EVAP line starting from the front -> back, using a sort of a 'smoke pump' and he checked where the smoke came ot under the car and around the gas tank; the idea was that the canister [is that one situated behind the spare wheel, isn't it??] seemed to be OK. The only part where the smoke came out was around gas tank cap and the other plastic caparound the filling neck [where you insert the fuel pump nozzle...]... The guy checked using a bag and a piece of fabric, trying to make the connection af the two parts [cap & plastic end of the neck] as 'etanche' as possible... But a very tiny stream of smoke still came out... so he said there is the problem!
To replace the cap = piece of cake [I can do iy myself in ~ 10 mins.!], but how much difficult is to replace the other part, that one where you insert the cap???

 

[Sams01XplrSprt]

that sux bout ur explorers guys hope we can help you guys out and get it back running again

 

[Squirrelmaster]

Thanks, Tom, for your clues and your link. Actually I can hear just a hiss and nothing else at the gas pump [well, it's still WINTER here in CANADA...!] so the hiss is pretty "quiet"...
On the other hand, the mechanic checked the EVAP line starting from the front -> back, using a sort of a 'smoke pump' and he checked where the smoke came ot under the car and around the gas tank; the idea was that the canister [is that one situated behind the spare wheel, isn't it??] seemed to be OK. The only part where the smoke came out was around gas tank cap and the other plastic caparound the filling neck [where you insert the fuel pump nozzle...]... The guy checked using a bag and a piece of fabric, trying to make the connection af the two parts [cap & plastic end of the neck] as 'etanche' as possible... But a very tiny stream of smoke still came out... so he said there is the problem!
To replace the cap = piece of cake [I can do iy myself in ~ 10 mins.!], but how much difficult is to replace the other part, that one where you insert the cap???

I can't tell you for certain because I don't have any experience with the sports, but if you can see the filler neck inside the fenderwell from underneath your X (which I don't think you can), then you can judge how hard you think it will be. If memory serves (which is not my strong suite), there should be 3 screws that hold the filler neck to the inside of the fender. You'll need to remove the cap, get inside the fender and remove the filler tube from the filler neck (there may be another tube inside the outer tube, which will make this step much harder, but I don't remember what years started having those, sorry), then remove the 3 screws holding the neck on, and remove the neck. This will facilitate you finding out where the leak is and whether it is repairable or not.

Best of luck, and sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

Tom