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problem with fog bulbs

TekMan05

Well-Known Member
Joined
July 7, 2007
Messages
977
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City, State
Kansas City
Year, Model & Trim Level
'00 XLT 5.0 V8
Ok so a while back my friend was trying to fix my fog bulbs where I can use a toggle switch to independently control them. Im not sure how he had it wired but he had some electrical wires connected directly to my fogbulbs and to my battery. Well not too long ago the fuse blew out and it stopped working. We checked all the electrical tape for any exposed wire but couldn't see any. I'm not sure if this is making any sense but he has it where I have a toggle swtich in the radio dash so I can just flip them on and off? If this does makes sense , what could be the problem or if not, whats a better way to do this? Thanks!
 



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Do you mean aftermarket fogs, or factory fogs? Did your friend wire them up so there is a relay in the system, or is the power going directly from the battery to the lights with the switch in the middle? If theres no relay in the system, it'd be best to add one so all wires (battery, ground, switch, lights) go to the relay. If there is a relay, it's possible the fuse was the wrong amp rating, or there was a short or other electrical issue that caused the fuse to blow.
 






They're the factory bulbs. and as by what ur going by it seems like he has them wired to the lights through the battery with the toggle switch inside the dash. I'll try and snap some pics to give a clearer picture
 






here's a picture of the toggle switch in the dash!

n514628964_345095_5408.jpg
 












Ok so a while back my friend was trying to fix my fog bulbs where I can use a toggle switch to independently control them. Im not sure how he had it wired but he had some electrical wires connected directly to my fogbulbs and to my battery. Well not too long ago the fuse blew out and it stopped working. We checked all the electrical tape for any exposed wire but couldn't see any. I'm not sure if this is making any sense but he has it where I have a toggle swtich in the radio dash so I can just flip them on and off? If this does makes sense , what could be the problem or if not, whats a better way to do this? Thanks!

How's this going ?

Here is my 2 cents

If you can't find the wiring problem and it isn't a bad Relay or the fuse is too small for the application, then consider doing the extreme thing and remove the wiring or at lest mark the wires for positive and negative connections and cut the harness.
Tape back all of the existing wiring so there will not be any exposed wires.

Now start again with a Relay in the Engine Compartment close to the battery.
Run a Fused Power Wire from the Battery to Pin 30 on the Relay.
Run a wire from Pin 87 on the Relay to the Lights.
A Switch on the Dash, mounted where you want it.
Power for the Switch coming from a Fused Line attached to the Circuit Panel inside of the vehicle.
Another wire from the Switch on the Dash to Pin 86 the Relay.
And finally run a wire from Pin 85 on the Relay to Ground. (Make sure you have bare metal for the ground connection and use a Ring Lugs with external tooth star lock washers and some anti corrosion paste on this connection.


Try hooking up the Relay and the Dash Switch First with all of the connecting wires; one wire from power to the switch, one wire from the switch to the relay and one wire from relay to ground, simple.
Test the Relay to see if it is clicking, if clicking it is working and should work when the lights are attached.
Then attach the power from the battery to the Relay and the lights wiring, this way you can trouble shoot each step of the install and know what is happening.

Sorry if this post is over kill, just trying to help out.

One more thing... (after thought) the wiring should be sized for the amperage load, i.e. 2 x 55watt lights = 110 watts divided by 12 volts = approximately 10 amps. 16 gauge wire will work for the Main power from the battery to the relay to the lights but run 12 gauge Automotive Wire to keep a safety factor and to make sure the lights get all of the current they need to burn their brightest and run a 20 amp fuse between the battery and the relay.
The Dash Switch isn't a problem 20 or 18 gauge wire will be fine and a 2 amp fuse between the Circuit Panel and the Switch.
 






Gracias!! :thumbsup: I'll wait til this weekend and see what I can do!
 






How's this going ?

Here is my 2 cents

If you can't find the wiring problem and it isn't a bad Relay or the fuse is too small for the application, then consider doing the extreme thing and remove the wiring or at lest mark the wires for positive and negative connections and cut the harness.
Tape back all of the existing wiring so there will not be any exposed wires.

Now start again with a Relay in the Engine Compartment close to the battery.
Run a Fused Power Wire from the Battery to Pin 30 on the Relay.
Run a wire from Pin 87 on the Relay to the Lights.
A Switch on the Dash, mounted where you want it.
Power for the Switch coming from a Fused Line attached to the Circuit Panel inside of the vehicle.
Another wire from the Switch on the Dash to Pin 86 the Relay.
And finally run a wire from Pin 85 on the Relay to Ground. (Make sure you have bare metal for the ground connection and use a Ring Lugs with external tooth star lock washers and some anti corrosion paste on this connection.


Try hooking up the Relay and the Dash Switch First with all of the connecting wires; one wire from power to the switch, one wire from the switch to the relay and one wire from relay to ground, simple.
Test the Relay to see if it is clicking, if clicking it is working and should work when the lights are attached.
Then attach the power from the battery to the Relay and the lights wiring, this way you can trouble shoot each step of the install and know what is happening.

Sorry if this post is over kill, just trying to help out.

One more thing... (after thought) the wiring should be sized for the amperage load, i.e. 2 x 55watt lights = 110 watts divided by 12 volts = approximately 10 amps. 16 gauge wire will work for the Main power from the battery to the relay to the lights but run 12 gauge Automotive Wire to keep a safety factor and to make sure the lights get all of the current they need to burn their brightest and run a 20 amp fuse between the battery and the relay.
The Dash Switch isn't a problem 20 or 18 gauge wire will be fine and a 2 amp fuse between the Circuit Panel and the Switch.
Now that I think of it, I was using a 30 amp fuse! huh I'll try another fuse first and see if that works before trying this way out!!
 






One other thing you could do is to put the fogs back to stock and follow one of the sticky threads describing how to have the fogs on at any time. "Fog Lamp Mod" or "Stock Fog Lamp Relay".
 






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