Problems after new Wires and Plugs

[Cuska]

Alright i put in brand new Autolite Double Platniums in my 97 4.0 SOHC. Along with Bosh Ultra-premium wires. Now my truck is not running well at all. The best word for what she is doing is "chugging" i dont dare move it far, i tried driving it up the street, how ever it decided to stall. I'l pump the gas and it will back fire and sputter, basicaly no power. All of the wires are attached securly and the plugs have been gaped between .52 and .55. I hounestly have no clue what the mater is. all i did i replaced, the exact same. Oh and now the check engine light flashes.

 

[Lt.Jim]

It sounds like you may have crossed some of your plug wires. Recheck the firing order.

 

[Jason94sport]

Yeah, that & triple check your connections. I had the same thing on my X after the wire change & 1 of the wires, the left rear one kept coming loose. I had to shove it on the plug rather hard to keep it tight.

 

[scaperrotta06]

sounds like you crossed some wires i just changed mine and the # 3 wire feel off and it ran like crap chugging as you said also go get the code read at auto zone that will tell you forsure

 

[awhughes]

Always change the plugs with a stone cold engine and I am not assuming you did'nt. After you change each plug and wire, start the engine for a brief moment to ensure that the plug or wire you just changed is ok, by way of smooth engine idle.
I just bump the ignition. let it start and look at the tach, run for 5 seconds, shut her down. To me this insures that the last plug or wire installation is ok. Shut the engine down and do the next one. I typically only do this for the difficult plugs where something could go wrong, but it is a good measure to isolate if you foul up one of the installations of either the plug or wire. This will not heat up the cylinder head or by no means bring it up to operating temp. The exhaust might get a little warm after 6 or 8 startups, but minimal.
This is all assuming your rig is not running like a "hit or miss tractor engine" to start with. I have been changing my own plugs since 1981, starting out on a true fouler, 1972 Hurst Old Cutlass 445 cid, bad rings and valve body guides, push rod engine. It was an oil sucker. The plugs were a sitting duck.

 

[old mechanic]

Always change the plugs with a stone cold engine and I am not assuming you did'nt. After you change each plug and wire, start the engine for a brief moment to ensure that the plug or wire you just changed is ok, by way of smooth engine idle.
I just bump the ignition. let it start and look at the tach, run for 5 seconds, shut her down. To me this insures that the last plug or wire installation is ok. Shut the engine down and do the next one. I typically only do this for the difficult plugs where something could go wrong, but it is a good measure to isolate if you foul up one of the installations of either the plug or wire. This will not heat up the cylinder head or by no means bring it up to operating temp. The exhaust might get a little warm after 6 or 8 startups, but minimal.
This is all assuming your rig is not running like a "hit or miss tractor engine" to start with. I have been changing my own plugs since 1981, starting out on a true fouler, 1972 Hurst Old Cutlass 445 cid, bad rings and valve body guides, push rod engine. It was an oil sucker. The plugs were a sitting duck.

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And I thought I was the only one doing this. I find many guys replacing 3-7 different things at once only to have something screw up and they are lost as to "what happened". I know its nice to go in and replace things all at the same time but with so many BAD parts today or the possiblity of things screwing up after changing things I just do one at a time.
Like you said especially on hard to get at parts.

 

[Wrench]

Recheck that you have the correct plugs for your application. Check the resistance of the new high tension leads. While you were in there did you knock a hose or wire off?

 

[Cuska]

alright i got it, just messed up on the coil pack side.

Thanks all for your help