Problems with 2nd Gen one-piece CCFL Halo install | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Problems with 2nd Gen one-piece CCFL Halo install

Hi guys,

recently purchased a pair of Eagle Eye one piece "halo" projector style headlights. I had made my decision on which aftermarket light to purchase based on extensive research on this forum, and settled on the Eagle Eye set due to the following post by 410Fortune:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142851&page=27 (see post #531)

I removed the old headlights, and installed the one piece new headlights without too many issues, mine came with an HID and ballast kit to replace the low beam H3 style bulb. All connectors hooked up and then powered on the truck to troubleshoot. I had a few problems:

With the HID bulbs in place:
- I have no daytime running lights
- The halos do not light up
- The LED signal lights do not light up
- The headlights no longer come on automatically when it gets dark out
- The autodim feature is non-responsive (adjustment on rear view mirror)
- The instrument cluster now fails to illuminate (speedometer, tach, etc.)
- Fog lights now do not light up

To see if the HID bulbs/ballast was the culprit, I removed them and replaced the H3 style bulbs:
- The low beams now automatically come on as a daytime running light
- Still no halos
- Still no LED's
- Still no automatic headlights when it gets dark
- Still no autodim
- Instrument cluster fails to illuminate when the headlight dash switch is switched to "on" position
- Still no fog lights

I am deeply confused as to why something so simple could effect so many of the other functions, and am particularly frustrated with the lack of instrument cluster lights. All fuses related to lighting were checked, and none were found to be blown.

If anyone has any experience with similar lights or knows how I could go about troubleshooting these problems, the help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,

Greg
 



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Did you check the fuses and relays under the hood? Or did you just check the ones in the dash?
 






Just checked the fuses in the dash.
 






The DRLs aren't going to work with HIDs. DRLs are actually just your normal bulbs run at low voltage so they are dimmer.

Unplug your DRL relay. I can't say for certain why your other stuff stopped... Could be a coincidence and your multifunction switch went bad when you put in new headlights... Though, it seems more likely you have a bad fuse or relay...

The LED problem is probably because you have the polarity reversed. On LEDs positive HAS to go to positive, negative to negative. Power will only flow in one direction with an LED.
 






For the LED light, I made sure that the connector was aligned properly, even tried it the opposite way, and still no LED's.
 






Please help! I know a lot of you out there run these lights, there must be a way to fix all these problems. Also, my tail lights are no longer lit up, only when i signal, back up, or press the brake. My Ex is unsafe to drive with all these unpleasant side effects, someone out there have any ideas???
 






You either have

1: A bad headlamp switch

2: A bad multifunction switch

or

3: a bad fuse

I would estimate 3 is most likely, and that you have just overlooked the proper fuse or made a mistake when testing. Check fuse 33, it is at the bottom left of your fuse panel oriented in a different direction from most of the other fuses. It is a 15 amp fuse.
 






Pulled every single fuse in dash and under hood. None of them were found to be blown. I'm starting to think relay? Anyone out there ever have a similar problem? I reallllly need to get this fixed...
 






I cannot answer this question, BUT I did have some trouble at first with the eagle motorsports halo hid/projector kit. The ballast for the HID did not have a battery and ground wires or relay built in...although admittedly this is only my 2nd HID kit, and Im not well versed in this, but My first kit (DDM) leftover from my impala ss wagon had the ballast, inline fuse, and everything to run ALMOST 100% correct.
The problem I had was the ballasts supplied had what looked like a foglight type plug for poer...not the ford/gm style 3 prong D shaped plug. So I have all lights working except for one highbeam..which I will need to make a Y connector or splice into factory harness on one side for the other...(confusing right??) I had to take pics and jump through hoops and do the HULA to get those idiots to replace the faulty driver side due to halos not working...when I finally got the new one...the bulb color didnt match...ugh!...ended up ordering new bulbs from DDM for under 18 bucks IIRC.

so...maybe both ballasts are bad...(which you will prolly have to take pics to submit to the sellers) or there may be another relay (not fuse) for light operations?

in all...I still love the look, and when the summer cars come out for the year, I will redo these headlights to make them work correctly.

good luck brotha
 






As it turns out, I did have a blown fuse under the hood. Applying the scientific method, and testing one connection at a time, it was found that the LED corner lights on the driver side light assembly must have had a bad ballast, since the fuse popped when I plugged it in. Leaving that connector unplugged allowed everything else to power up, and all unpleasant blown-fuse related side effects disappeared when the fuse was replaced. Looks like I'll have to send the driver's side assembly back to Eagle Eye for replacement, and from dealing with warranty issues before, I'm willing to bet I'll be without a headlight on my driver's side for a month or more. I'll be lucky enough if they even agree to warranty it, since the set was purchased on ebay.
 






I have the CCFL halos on mine, with HIDs, which, since being fitted, render me with no DRLs... however, I've driven in the UK for long enough without having needed DRLs, so I don't honestly see why I need them in Canada... besides, it then gives me the option of just having the halos on, which, IMO, looks much better...


Si
 






Good luck with the warranty!

Also, make sure to take out that DRL relay when you get everything re-installed.
 






Why does the DRL relay need to be removed?
 






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