proper torque on hub bolt

[ljedik]

Anyone know what the proper torque psi is that I need to put on the hub botls? I'm thinking somewhere around 60psi but I maybe wrong. I just want to make sure.

 

[h2osurf]

On the wheel nuts? or the actual hub assembly bolt?

 

[dc goddard]

according to the Hanes manual 150 ft lbs

 

[ljedik]

actual hub assembly bolt

 

[IZwack]

I went to the dealer once (when I was a newb - well I still am) asking them to please torque the central hub nut for me (cauz I didnt have a torque wrench back then), and they told me that they just get it as they can with a medium breaker bar. So I did that and I've been doing that ever since and I haven't had a problem yet.

 

[gijoecam]

actual hub assembly bolt

I'm still not clear on wWHICH bolt you're talking about...

The THREE BOLTS that hold the hub into the knuckle, or the single NUT that holds the CV joint into the hub?

-Joe

 

[IZwack]

he said "bolt" instead of "bolts", so im assuming the one central one oh wait, he said bolts and bolt - darnit!

 

[gijoecam]

he said "bolt" instead of "bolts", so im assuming the one central one oh wait, he said bolts and bolt - darnit!

Indeed... That's why I'm so confused....

He also never specified whether it was a 2wd or a 4x4 either.... I'm just assuming it's the 4x4 in his signature...

-Joe

 

[Hartman]

I just get that summabitch as tight as possible

 

[gijoecam]

For the record, the three that hold the hub to the upright are 74-96 ft*lbs, and the hub nut is 157-213 ft*lbs.

"As tight as possible" is not a good idea. The torque on that nut sets the pre-load on the bearings. Overload the bearings and, well, we all know nothing good can come of it.

-Joe

 

[Hartman]

For the record, the three that hold the hub to the upright are 74-96 ft*lbs, and the hub nut is 157-213 ft*lbs.

"As tight as possible" is not a good idea. The torque on that nut sets the pre-load on the bearings. Overload the bearings and, well, we all know nothing good can come of it.

-Joe

Not on 2nd gen 4WDs with a sealed hub and bearing. No preload on these.

 

[gijoecam]

Not on 2nd gen 4WDs with a sealed hub and bearing. No preload on these.

Yes, on the second gens.

I pressed this one apart to see what makes it tick. The outer CV joint slips through the spline of the drive flange, but shoulders up against the inner race on the inner bearing, not the flange. The nut on the outside clamps against the hub flange, applying force between the inner race of the inner bearing and the inner race of the outer bearing. That pre-loads the bearing.

-Joe

edit: memory is fuzzy as it's been a few years since I had it apart..... does the joint bottom out on the bearing or the drive flange?? I think it's both.... the bearing first, then the drive flange stops it from getting too tight as that's what determines the pre-load. As the bearings wear-in and loosen up with age, I wonder if you could tighten the bearings by grinding a few thousandths off the inside end of the drive flange to 'shorten the stack' and compensate for the wear? I may have to try it as both of mine are shot again....

-Joe

 

[Hartman]

a 213ft/lb preload, makes perfect sense.