Question about 6R80 transmission pans between years | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Question about 6R80 transmission pans between years

94Eddie

Elite Explorer
Joined
September 18, 2003
Messages
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1,854
Year, Model & Trim Level
2010 Mountaineer Premier
I want to have a drain plug in the pan of my 6R80 transmission since I drain the fluid about every 30k-40k miles. I don't feel the need to change the filter at every drain and plan to do it about every 80k-100k miles. The drain would make intermediate changes so much easier. I found a Dorman pan (link below) for the 2011 6R80 in various vehicles with one being the F150 that has a drain plug for a very reasonable price. I would like to know if there is any difference between the 6R80 in the 2010 Explorers/Mountaineers and the one in the 2011 F150. Does anyone know the answer to this question?

Dorman Products - 265-854
 



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I have seen those type of plugs but the welded ones give me a better feeling of reliability. If I can't find that the Dorman pan works then I will use the stock pan and have a shop weld a drain plug to it. The Dorman pan looks to be about what I would end up with going this route without the hassles of going to a welding shop. Either way it will be a lot less expensive than the deep cast oil pans that are available.
 






That Dorman pan will work for your application. Don’t over torque bolts. 106 inch pounds (12Nm)
Brad
 






That Dorman pan will work for your application. Don’t over torque bolts. 106 inch pounds (12Nm)
Brad
Thanks! Is this pan compatible with the OEM filter spec'ed for the 2010 Explorer/Mountaineer V8s?
 






Thanks! Is this pan compatible with the OEM filter spec'ed for the 2010 Explorer/Mountaineer V8s?

94Eddie - you've responded to my posts about selling 1997 and buying 2010 v8. I'm now driving the 2010 and want to spend some money on it...:
As you ask here I'm looking for replacement 6r80 V8 trans pan with drain... Do we know this will fit and is correct capacity?

I was looking at the (expensive) PML Pans and saw this comment:
Explorer owners should plan on temporarily removing the cross member.. On the Ford Explorer, the pan is a very close fit and two bolts are difficult to access because of the cross member and the transmission cooler lines. Many customers have temporarily removed the cross member to gain access.

Noit sure if this is about the larger PML pan or just generally about removing the stock pan?
 






I looked into the aftermarket pans and didn't see much use in paying hundreds of dollars for one. I tried the Dorman pan and it doesn't work because the sump area is too shallow for the filter pickup. Instead, I bought a bung for $10-$15 and paid a shop to weld it in for $60. If you can't have your vehicle down while it is welded in then get a pan for cheap at a salvage yard, or buy one, and have the bung welded in to it. Then drop the pan and replace it with the modified one. Going this route is the least hassle,, least expensive and insures the pan will fit properly and use the same fluid levels. Just make sure you transfer the magnet to the modified pan if it doesn't have one.

I used the drain plug linked below. It has a low profile and doesn't extend into the pan very far. There are versions that bolt in but they aren't as reliable as a welded in part, IMO. There are lots of drain plugs to choose from online.

Drain Plug
 






I looked into the aftermarket pans and didn't see much use in paying hundreds of dollars for one. I tried the Dorman pan and it doesn't work because the sump area is too shallow for the filter pickup. Instead, I bought a bung for $10-$15 and paid a shop to weld it in for $60. If you can't have your vehicle down while it is welded in then get a pan for cheap at a salvage yard, or buy one, and have the bung welded in to it. Then drop the pan and replace it with the modified one. Going this route is the least hassle,, least expensive and insures the pan will fit properly and use the same fluid levels.
I was looking at Fomoto and Stahlbus and B&M drains. Look like they are made to screw directly into existing Oil pan drains.. I'd need nut and washer or something to go inside the pan... Your thoughts? Heard some bad things about plastic washer that comes with B&M (or maybe they were torque'd too tight)
 






I was looking at Fomoto and Stahlbus and B&M drains. Look like they are made to screw directly into existing Oil pan drains.. I'd need nut and washer or something to go inside the pan... Your thoughts? Heard some bad things about plastic washer that comes with B&M (or maybe they were torque'd too tight)
I am not too familiar wih these pans. Typically they are meant as a performance upgrade to aid in cooling, increase fluid capacity etc. IMO, they are a waste of money for use on an Explorer. I would rather spend the money on an aftermarket dip stick as this would make servicing the transmission as easy as changing the oil. A trans mission filter is good for 100k-150k miles so intermediate 40k-50k fluid changes would be very easy to complete with the dip stick. Also, fluid level checks would be way easier.
 






94Eddie - you've responded to my posts about selling 1997 and buying 2010 v8. I'm now driving the 2010 and want to spend some money on it...:
As you ask here I'm looking for replacement 6r80 V8 trans pan with drain... Do we know this will fit and is correct capacity?

I was looking at the (expensive) PML Pans and saw this comment:
Explorer owners should plan on temporarily removing the cross member.. On the Ford Explorer, the pan is a very close fit and two bolts are difficult to access because of the cross member and the transmission cooler lines. Many customers have temporarily removed the cross member to gain access.

Noit sure if this is about the larger PML pan or just generally about removing the stock pan?
Just weld a pan drain plug.the steel stock pan is easily removed and the crossmember dont need to be removed at all.the liquid qty of 6r80 is about 8 quarts of mercon LV on hot ( about 95 C degrees) trans only.
 






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