Question about changing front and rear brake pads.

[PapaSquat_73]

Hey all. I'm going to be changing the pads on the Ex, and from what I've been reading, you need a c-clamp to press the caliper piston back in before installing the new pads. My question is, is it at all possible to use a large pair of channel locks instead? I do not have a c-clamp, and I know they're pretty cheap (like $6-7). But money is VERY tight right now and trying to save every little bit would help!

Thanks in advance!

 

[swshawaii]

Channel locks work. Protect the piston face, especially if they are phenolic, and make sure it goes in straight when compressing. Better yet, open the bleeder and compress by hand. Flush should be done every two years anyway. One qt. of Valvoline DOT 3/4 should be less than $10. First pic shows what contaminants remain AFTER flushing. That junk is what's getting pushed back into the ABS system and master cylinder when the bleeders aren't opened first.

 

[PapaSquat_73]

Thanks again swshawaii! The channel locks pretty large. I planned on using the old brake pad as a plate when I compressed the piston back in. In regards to opening the bleeder, I know it's going to drop the fluid level a little. For the time being, could I just top-off what was lost? I planned on doing a complete fluid change (brake, oil, tranny, both f/r gear oil, x-fer, etc...)within a few months anyway.

Thanks!

 

[swshawaii]

Topping off is fine, but bleeding is still required any time the screws are opened. Explorer calipers seem to be very touchy, I had a heat and sticking problem on my drivers rear after changing pads. Replaced bore inner seal, dust boot, hose, lubed hardware, etc. Same problem. Ended up replacing both rears with NAPA Eclipse semi loaded calipers for less than $50 each. I would do a flush while you're there, otherwise push in the pistons without opening the screws and do a complete brake flush ASAP.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

you could rent tools in Advance Auto/Autozone or Oreilly's if you have them around.

 

[Exproblems]

The channel locks pretty large. I planned on using the old brake pad as a plate when I compressed the piston back in. In regards to opening the bleeder, I know it's going to drop the fluid level a little. For the time being, could I just top-off what was lost? I planned on doing a complete fluid change (brake, oil, tranny, both f/r gear oil, x-fer, etc...)within a few months anyway.

Thanks!

Not sure if I am reading this correctly or not, but to simply change out your brake pads and compress the caliper piston back into it's housing to allow more room for the thicker, new brake pads to fit, you just need to "unscrew or loosen the master cylinder cap" prior to compressing the caliper piston back into it's housing. This will allow the piston to be compressed. I've done it this way for 37 years and never had a problem. Once done installing the new pads, re-tighten the master cylinder cap. You only need to open the bleed ports on the caliper when you are bleeding air from the brake lines or doing a complete fluid flush and cleaning out the caliper gunk buildup as SWSHawaii suggested.