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Question regarding differential lunch box locker

Hitchhikingmike

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City, State
Dallas, Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
'02 XLS
I have always entertained the idea of installing a locker in my rear diff for a few months now. I have yet to do it but am still thinking about it.

I've got a question about the Aussie lockers...

Is it true that the only time the diff is allowed to act as an open diff is when no engine torque is applied? And is it true that both wheels are always locked when engine torque is applied?

Does this mean that every time you acclerate and maintain speed on highway the diff is locked?

I'm still trying to understand how these lunch box lockers work here.

Thanks.

Edit- I changed my question, my first one was stupid I now realize.
 



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Also, with aussie lockers installed. Do I understand correctly that when no torque is applied, the differential is in a neutral state? So with the truck in park, it could roll, correct?
 






The Aussie "ratchets" when one wheel spins faster than the other, as in cornering. You are correct that it unlocks with no load on it. Automatic lockers do not have a "neutral state", if you leave it in park it will stay there.
 






One side will always be engaged, in park, drive, reverse, whatever...
The differential locks when "enough" torque is applied to overcome traction, make sense?
If you have GREAT traction (hot asphalt) with lots of weight on the tires, you can accelerate moderately and turn with no lockup. If you are on mud (little traction) and accellerate lightly, it will probably lock up because the torque is more than the traction.
The principle is that, during a turn, the inside wheel is driven (the slower wheel) and the outside wheel is allowed to spin faster but not being powered (freewheel). If you stomp on it though, it will lockup and will scrub the tires a little bit. It's not going to hinder your steering ability except slight oversteer, just wear tires a little more. My tires still seem to be wearing just fine though.
 






I wish I could find pictures of my aussie when I installed. The write-up that I like to refer to for explaination is gone. Once you put one together it makes sense, and is amazingly simple.
 






Go for it

The Aussie is a really nice locker. I do hear mine ratchet with the window down and when it's pretty quiet. But other than that I rarely notice it. It should basically be locked at all times when you've got your foot on the gas, but when turning if you don't gas it hard through the turn the inside wheel will drive the vehicle. In which case it is unlocked so that you can make your turn. Like has been mentioned it can kind of push you a little further, but I've gotten so used to it that I don't notice a thing. Haven't had a chance to test it in winter yet, so I'm just waiting on some snowfall here to see how well I can do some donuts this year. I've been trying to figure out gravel on it, I would think it would cause the rear slide out a bit more, haven't really noticed it happen, but just something I've kept an eye on when cornering on gravel.

My parents have a long, steep, gravel driveway and it definitely does its job heading up that. I can feel it push the Explorer straight up that hill and even when I turn the wheels it still pushes it straight up more than turning, it does turn, but it takes more input than with the open.

If you're like me the reason you're thinking of getting the Aussie is the price and not liking the feeling of pretty much having your balls cut off. At least limited slip makes me feel like I've got some real rear wheel traction and should hopefully be able to do better than a 1 tire fire. Side note though, I can't spin the tires at all now, probably a combination of the locker and the BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KOs.

Honestly, it's a good investment if you'll ever see more than just the paved road with your vehicle. I like it too for the boat ramps. Even with just a 1000lb boat and trailer retrieving the boat would usually get at least one tire to slip on the boat ramp and then all I'd get was spin. Not having to lock in 4-high to retrieve the boat is a blessing in itself.

I've never had any odd issues on the highway with it locking and unlocking randomly. Follow the advice that Aussie sends with the locker for driving and you should be fine. Take it easy on icy and snow covered roads, don't forget it's back there and drive a little more sensible and you'll be just fine. I barely notice mine most of the time. My guess is 4wd will be your best friend in the winter, just a lot easier to steer where you want I would guess since the front would pull you where you turn rather than the rear sliding around it.

If you have any questions too, Aussie is great to deal with. Any other info on the locker itself can be found on http://www.offroadlockers.com/

Always keep your tires inflated to the same level with the locker, the different pressures can cause the locker to lock and unlock constantly, thus wearing out your locker much sooner than it should. But I believe that Aussie says that the part should outlast your factory rear end parts.

If you do decide to get it, don't hesitate to ask questions, it took my brother and I almost 8 hours to do it because we didn't understand the instructions that well. When they say square hole, it's the oblong/oval shaped hole, put the pins in there first then slide them into the round holes designed for them. Then place the spring in that open oval/oblong hole. Don't put the spacers in backwards and be patient. It's a PITA the first time around, but now that I've done it, I could do it over and over again, and probably only take 2 hours.
 






It's not bad in the snow, you can do some awsome drifts though ;)
Just remember it's back there, practice sliding and countersteering and such and you'll do fine with it.
Since I put the front locker in, I actually drove around in 2wd a bit when I was in snow last time, so I could turn easier.
 






Okay, thanks for all the quick responses.

I think I understand how these lockers work now. Let me recap on my understanding to see if I got this right. With the aussie locker, while the diff is in an open state, only one wheel is driven, and the only time both wheels are driven is when the diff is locked?

So while the diff is "open" the truck is essentially a 1x4? And when the diff is locked the truck functions as a 2x4?

Perhaps I just need to stop asking question and instal one myself to see how it really works.
 






Okay, thanks for all the quick responses.

I think I understand how these lockers work now. Let me recap on my understanding to see if I got this right. With the aussie locker, while the diff is in an open state, only one wheel is driven, and the only time both wheels are driven is when the diff is locked?

So while the diff is "open" the truck is essentially a 1x4? And when the diff is locked the truck functions as a 2x4?

Perhaps I just need to stop asking question and instal one myself to see how it really works.

Really it's locked all the time, driving both, until you turn...
Have you looked inside a differential before?
Here's how the aussie works anyway...
This picture shows the locker components, spaced apart more than they would be.
AUSSIELOCKER.jpg

Each axle shaft comes into one side of the carrier. On each axleshaft, you install an axle gear. These are the gears on the outside of the picture.
The two inside gears are the Cam gears. The cam gears stay lined up with eachother, and the center pin goes through them, and through the carrier. The center pin is what actually turns those cam gears. When torque is applied through the center pin, those cam gear spread apart, forcing them to sit tightly against the axle gears, making them lock together.
This assembly sits tight together. If you spread everything apart as much as possible, it would only be enough for one side to seperate gears (between axle and cam gears), allowing just that one side to slip or freewheel. This is what causes the ratcheting noise while turning.
It is that simple, that's all the locker is, and it's about the size of an apple ;)
Hope that helps to clear up some confusion.

Oh and here's the install write-up into an 8.8 that I was looking for...
http://www.rockmodified.com/offroad/Tech/aussie/aussie1.htm
 






I had an Aussie in my 98 Sport. Loved it. Fantastic investment. If you get one, DO the brown wire mod. It tends to cause the Auto 4wd to engage while cornering.
 






One other thing

I noticed that you didn't mention the type of differential you have, I assume if you're looking at an Aussie you have an open diff, but if you have L/S you'll have to shell out some extra $$ for the Powertrax No-Slip. Another really nice locker from what I've heard and it's supposed to be extremely smooth. If you need to find out it's inside the drivers side door jamb, it's under axle code if it starts with a letter, you've got L/S, two numbers and it's open.

A 2nd on the BWM. Definitely do that with the locker.
 






I agree with everyone here. I'm building my 8.8 right now, I should take a video showing how to install it when I get around to it (next weekish) and post it on youtube.
 






No, I have never personally opened up a differential and looked inside myself. However I have read a few articles explaining how they work. I understand the differences and construction of open vs. limited slip vs selectable/automatic locker differentials as well.

Yes I do have an open differential, the 3.55 gearing to be exact.

I have tried my best to understand how the aussie locker works on my own. I previously read this article (http://www.rockmodified.com/offroad/Tech/aussie/aussie1.htm) found on the aussie web site as well as a few other articles explaining how to install them in toyota's etc.

I understand the basic principle of how the locker works now. When enough torque is applied, the locker expands and locks both axle shafts together.

The only thing I do not understand, is how does the locker ratchet? What governs the locker so that it will always stick to one inside wheel during turns while the diff is unlocked?

When the center pin is not pushing the locker to the sides, what keeps the locker from contracting from both sides into a neutral state?

Thanks.
 






I agree with everyone here. I'm building my 8.8 right now, I should take a video showing how to install it when I get around to it (next weekish) and post it on youtube.

This would be awesome. I would be most appreciative if you did this. :thumbsup:
 






I understand the basic principle of how the locker works now. When enough torque is applied, the locker expands and locks both axle shafts together.

The only thing I do not understand, is how does the locker ratchet? What governs the locker so that it will always stick to one inside wheel during turns while the diff is unlocked?

When the center pin is not pushing the locker to the sides, what keeps the locker from contracting from both sides into a neutral state?

Thanks.

In it's passive state the locker is "expanded" and all the teeth are engaged. A set of springs and pins hold it apart. The same springs compress to allow the cams to ratchet. The teeth on the cams are beveled allowing them to slip.

Also the hole for the center pin is slightly oblong. When torque is applied it rotates the pin forward forcing the sides tight. When the pin relaxes back there is some give to allow the springs to compress. This is why you get extra backlash with an automatic locker, the center pin slaps back and forth. Drive a manual with a auto locker and you will really notice it.
 






How:

Well around a corner your axle shafts shift slightly. Thus generally it will pull out a little bit from the center. Which will allow for the differentiation. The center pin is what pushes the cam gears out towards the axle gears, so without torque being applied to it it does not push outward to "lock" the gears together. So that outside wheel can roll faster than the driveshaft. As it turns it pops in and out of the lock with the cam gear, that's what causes the ratcheting sound, the springs still apply pressure, but not enough to lock it to the axle gear. Since the outside wants to rotate faster is rolls around popping in and out of the "locked" position, until torque is applied again to force the cam gear back into the axle gear and not allow it to slip back out. Make sense?
 






Ooooooh! now I understand. I though that whenever the center pin wasn't expanding the locker, the locker contracted from both sides.

Duh, thoes springs keep it expanded, but not enough force so that it can ratchet, and the center pin just applies force so that it will not ratchet.

I don't know how I didn't see that before, thanks for explaining this to me.
 






Okay, one last question, I understand how to install one on a normal differential/ axle. BUT, what if I wanted to install one on an independent rear suspension (3gen explorer) differential?

Do you suppose that I would still have to pull the half shaft drive axle out of the differential to install a locker? If so this would be pain, as I would have to disconnect the upper control arm, knuckle, press the drive axle out of the hub, etc.

I don't quite understand how the independent rear suspension differential is put together. My haynes manual tells me that the drive axles just pry out of the differential with force, the book mentions nothing about having to open the differential first to remove any C clip holding the drive axles in.

Any one familiar with 3 gen rear differentials? Thanks.
 






I haven't looked in an 02+ IRS. But I imagine it would work similar to the IFS differential. The halfshafts are held it by an internal snap ring of sorts, and the fact that the shaft is held in between the knuckle and the differential. You'd pull the upper control arms, pull the knuckle away far enough to pry the half shaft out, if that makes since.
In the older ranger/explorer/sport trac IFS, you have to disconnect the upper balljoint, take the brakes off, sometimes the tie-rod end, take the wheel nut off, and pull the knuckle far enough out to take the shaft out of the wheel hub. Then you pry it out of the diff.
I'm not sure what diff is in the rear of those, is there an auto-locker that works with them?
 



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I have seen else where on the form before that the internals of the IRS diff is the same as all the other ford 8.8s. I emailed Aussie and they told me "The XD48831 is the correct locker for your IRS set up.", in regards to my '02.

I assume that the install would be verbatim to an IFS in an earlier explorer. But I have never done it or seen it done before.

I'm just wondering if anyone has ever done this before in an IRS explorer. Thanks.
 






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