R Side Power Window Motor | Ford Explorer Forums

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R Side Power Window Motor

AppleWood

Active Member
Joined
December 6, 2014
Messages
59
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1
City, State
Lake Wylie, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Ford Explorer Sport
Have voltage to switch so convinced motor bad. Question is how to R & R the motor, do I need to drill out the rivets? Looks like one stud w/nut and three rivets. Take all of these to remove?

Anyone wrestled one of these out recently? Don't want to loosen up the regulator or anything else if unnecessary!

Thanks in advance...
 



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before you replace the motor, test it by running power and ground to it at the motor. it is very common to have a broken wire in the driver's door jam. BTW, it doesn't really matter which side (red or yellow) you supply power and ground to. one way is window UP and the other is window DOWN.
 






Yes have to be rivited in also check to see if it is the switch stuck in the up or down position just swap switch from other door to make sure. Then after that I say replace motor and they are not that bad but you have to have a big daddy rivit gun to put in those monster rivits. And probably another set of hand to hold part together while you put in rivot
 






Thanks Koda, I did check wire bundle @ driver door jamb. As I stated, there's voltage to the passenger door switch. Have you ever had to pull one of these motors?
 






Thanks Koda, I did check wire bundle @ driver door jamb. As I stated, there's voltage to the passenger door switch. Have you ever had to pull one of these motors?

No, not on an Explorer, but I'm done them on other vehicles. Yes, you need to drill the rivets out. I've placed the rivets with grade 8 bolts and nyloc nuts w/out a problem. But seriously, before you get into changing the motor, test it (and the wiring) at door. I've found these window motors are pretty reliable and I'd hate to go through the hassle and expense of changing a motor when the problem is somewhere else (driver's door switch or wiring). It's pretty common for window and lock problems to be wiring related on these trucks.
 






Okay, thanks. I noticed that loosening the screw on top of the large barrel-shaped connector type thing in driver door jamb rendered that window inoperable too??

Again, 12V shows on red wire on passenger door switch.
 






Okay, thanks. I noticed that loosening the screw on top of the large barrel-shaped connector type thing in driver door jamb rendered that window inoperable too??

Again, 12V shows on red wire on passenger door switch.

Loosening the screw on the driver's door cylinder unplugs everything. Like I said, the red and yellow wires for the motor switch rolls (power and ground) depending on whether the window is going up or down. You must test at the motor to know if it's any good or not. In regard to the windows, the driver's door master switch really controls all the rest of the windows. The wires in the driver's door jam tend to eventually break from fatigue because the driver's door is opened and closed a gazillion times over the life of the vehicle.
 






If you have voltage at the motor try wiggling the switch back and forth as quickly as possible for 20 seconds if that don't work try hitting the motor softly with a hammer while working switch if it starts to work motor may need to be replaced due to bad internal contacts but I have seen these sleep on units that don't get used much worth a shot before replacement. Plus you can run a hot wire from the battery directly to one side of the motor or the other since both sides are power one is a down the other is a up this will eliminate a wiring issue. If it works with the jumper wire then it is wiring if it doesn't then it is the motor
 






So, I'm stuck. Have drilled out the three rivets and the motor is attached just as tight as when the rivets were in place! No earthly idea what is holding it in now.
 






You can take a set of dikes or side cutters and grab the rest of the rivit ( seeing if you just drilled out the center and see if you can get the rest of the rivit out. And check for how its attached to the window can be bolted or rivited and motor can have bolts through the door but not sure
 






Thanks Logan,
All bits of the rivets have been removed.

Haynes manual says to lower window to get to another pair of rivets holding glass in channel. Can't lower window as motor has failed! Grrr...
 






Cut the wires of the regulator the black thing protruding though motor to track unless the new motor didnt come with one then dont but cutting will allow the window to be in place then
 






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