Radius Arm Bushings x2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Radius Arm Bushings x2

TimR211

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Hello...It's now (sadly) time to replace my Radius Arm bushings for the second time in 18 months! Ok...so I didn't listen to everyone when I replaced them last time...I had my shop put the Ford factory replacements on. Dumb move I know. So, where is the best place to buy the urethayne (sp?) bushings? How much should I pay? Is there a particular brand that's better? Thanks for the input...

TimR><>
'93 Explorer XLT 4x4
'93 Ranger Splash
 



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You can buy the Energy Suspension ones from http://www.4wheelparts.com. They're not listed on the site, but send them an email and they'll get back to you. If i'm guessing they'll run you anywhere from 25-50. You could also buy the set and be done with it for 110 and be done with it.

BTW.....about how much was labor on your install????
 






I am in the process of replacing my radius arm bushings because the nut on the back of the radius arm vibrated itself off (scary)and the bushings went with it. Has this happened to anyone else. I have the 5.5" superlift and I was wondering if I threw some locking washers on there if that would help.
ryan
 






i haven't actually seen it, tried it, or sat down and looked at it, but and idea that i had could be a possilbe solution. You could drill a small hole through the threaded portion and slip a cotter type pin through it. Similar to the setup of the steering linkage. But like i said, i have never seen it that way, but its just somthing that crossed my mind.....
 






Tim, here's my .02 if you don't do much offroading go ahead and buy poly bushings. NAPA has them for about $20.

If you like to flex your suspension off road get the factory rubber ones. They allow more flex and they won't make your radius arm crossmember crack the holes out like the poly ones do. The poly ones are so hard they tend to break the holes out of the crossmember if used real hard offroad. I know from experience.

Campbell, the nuts are locknuts and shouldn't back off if properly torqued, but Riff is right, you could drill the threads and put a hitch pin or cotter pin in for a measure of safety.
 






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