ready to drop a rear locker in, been doing tons of reading still some ?'s

[LONO100]

hey all, ive scrounged up enough money and now im ready for my next project, installing a rear aussie locker in my 03 ST. my ST is open diff with 4.10, 8.8 diff 31 spline. the guys from aussie told me i needed locker # XD48831.

ive been doing a ton of reading on this forum as well as other sites and im ready (but slightly nervous) about opening up my diff and getting to work. i have seen a lot of videos on installing richmond lockrite lockers, but i cant find a decent one on installing the aussie lockers. my question is how similar are the aussie and lockrite lockers. ive read and seen on youtube that with the lockrites, you dont need to replace the carriers or reset the ring and pinion. is it the same with the aussies? also, are there any out of the ordinary tools i will need before i go tearing apart my diff? i dont want to have my axles pulled out and realize that i need to go to autozone to get some weird special tool i would never think to own.

any last second help with this before i order my locker today would be huge! i will document this project and post as "the non-mechanic's guide to installing lockers" or something of that nature.

thanks everyone

 

[Ronin8002]

The Aussie and Lockrite are very similar....all you are doing is removing the spider gears so no need to have the ring and pinion set up again. Your rear axle is the straight axle (not independent) right? If so, your install will be easier than mine (3rd gen independent rear 8.8).

I can only speak to the Aussie in terms of how it drives...I love it. Don't even notice it being back there except for the clicking during low speed turns. I expect the Lockrite would be similar but some say the Aussie is smoother and that their customer service is better.

There are a number of threads out there on how to install the Aussie into the solid axle 8.8. As I understand it the trickiest part is getting the C-Clips for the axles back on but other than that I don't think there are a ton of special tools needed. I beleive you will need to undo the hub retainer nuts so the tools for that might be the only ones that are out of the ordinary for most people.

 

[LONO100]

thanks ronin, i have the solid rear axle so i think that will make it just a little more easier for me. for removing the hubs, what tool is it exactly that i will need? im thinking its one of those slide hammers, or is there a special hub remover tool i need to get. if so, how much would one of those run me? do autoparts stores loan them out? ive changed brake pads and calipers before, but ive never had to actually pull a hub off. i would like to have all of the tools locked and loaded before i start the install. thanks again, i couldnt do it myself without the help of the forum.

 

[chad551]

There is no hub to remove when installing the locker. I installed mine without removing the wheels. You remove the cover bolts then pry open the bottom to drain the fluid. Remove the spider gears, and install each piece of the locker. It should not take more than an hour to install. I think once you get in there you see it is very,very,very easy.

 

[Ronin8002]

Ah, so you guys with the solid axles don't need to pull the axle shafts out to install the locker? That's what I was wondering about with the hubs.

 

[Ronin8002]

Nevermind, looks like axle shaft removal is optional.

LONO, check out this writeup with pics for the Aussie:

http://rockmodified.com/Tech/aussie/aussie1.htm

 

[LONO100]

chad you da man! i read one write up where the guy was saying that it wasnt an option, and i could have sworn he said he was working with a rear solid axle. btw, me and the gf are big fans of you and your trac! we love the SAS you threw on that thing!

hey thanks for the link ronin, you da man too. are you back from your trip? i know a guy that might be interested in your cb/am/fm antenna splitter.

thanks fellas, im ordering my aussie locker as we speak!

 

[LONO100]

one more question, ive read about a break in process once you get the lockers in. this entails driving the truck very gingerly for 500 miles, and then draining the diff and replacing the fluid again. is this accurate? im going on a trip into the mountains at the end of the month and probably wont be able to get the lockers in time to install them and put 500 miles on them and change the fluid before my trip, so should i hold off on installing them until after my trip at the end of this month? thanks guys.

 

[Ronin8002]

that's only for new ring and pinion gears, not a new locker. Once you install your locker just put new fluid in and that's it.

I read somewhere that there's a breaking in period of 200 miles that occurs with the locker, but it relates only to the noise level of the ratcheting. As far as I know, once you put it in and make sure it works correctly, you can drive it offroad right away.

I am back from my trip, will gladly sell that splitter.

one more question, ive read about a break in process once you get the lockers in. this entails driving the truck very gingerly for 500 miles, and then draining the diff and replacing the fluid again. is this accurate? im going on a trip into the mountains at the end of the month and probably wont be able to get the lockers in time to install them and put 500 miles on them and change the fluid before my trip, so should i hold off on installing them until after my trip at the end of this month? thanks guys.

 

[LONO100]

cool, so after the 200 mile break in, will i need to replace the diff fluid? id really like to get some clarification on this because if i will have to replace the diff fluid after 200 miles, id like to get some cheapy fluid for the break in and then get some royal purple for the replacement, if i dont need to replace fluid after 200 miles, id like to spring for the purple stuff to finish my install.

thanks again fellas, you all just took a whole load of worry off my mind. the biggest mechanical repairs ive ever made are things like head gasket replacements and changing alternators and thermostats and stuff like that, so ive been a little nervous about this project, but i feel way more confident now.

 

[Ronin8002]

No need to replace the fluid. Just put in the good stuff from the beginning and run it.

 

[LONO100]

nice! royal purple from the jump it is. just ordered my locker, about to get all the tools and fluids i need tomorrow. thanks everyone, i truly appreciate all the help.

 

[chad551]

I installed mine on a friday and went out and tested the hell out of it the next day, or it may have been that night.

BTW thanks for the comments about my truck..

 

[LONO100]

any time chad, i have a white ST myself and when i first got my ST i was looking for pictures of some white modified ST's and yours popped up. maybe someday if i come up big on my football parlays, i will attempt the same SAS you did. some of my favorite ST's on the forum are yours, rebel, demo, and the black and gold one from tampa.

i just ordered my aussie locker XD48831 and i cant wait to get it, im super excited and will document the install. i hope it will help those that arent as mechanically inclined as some of the real ballers on the forum.

 

[Clusterpup]

Good luck documenting it. I wanted to do the same thing but I was alone and all covered in oil. Use 90/140 oil as recommenced by Aussie if you live in a hot climate. I wouldn't waste my money on royal purple for a diff but if that makes you feel better, go ahead. :

 

[LONO100]

WHAT BRAND DO YOU RECOMMEND CLUSTER? i live in a pretty mild climate, so i dont know if i will be running that type of fluid.

 

[Clusterpup]

I think it was castrol synthetic blend. It gets pretty damn hot where I live so I went with the heavier oil but if its not bad where you are then just use the 80/90 if thats the normal weight oil, I can't recall.

 

[Ronin8002]

you can use 80w90 or 75w140 in your rear axle, though the manual for your truck says 75w140 is more for limited slips. the heavier oil won't hurt but since your climate is mild I agree with clusterpup that the lighter one is fine.

Can't go wrong with Motorcraft brand since that what ford recommends. A good synthetic like Mobil 1 or Amsoil severe gear would also be fine.

 

[LONO100]

going to my local autozone tonight! thanks fellas.