Rear Axle L/S cure

[SWLathrop]

Have not been impressed with the performance of the L/S axle in my 01 Sport. It appears that Ford sets these up with a very light preload due to people complaining about chattering/wheel chirp when turning corners over the years. Went to replace the clutch packs under warranty. I mic'd the old plates to compare them with the new and wha-la, they were the same. Even after 30,000 miles. They didn't even show any wear. So I added .020 to each side, fought to get the preload spring back in, and now have a usable L/S rear axle that is still streetable with no chattering.

 

[jimbo74]

good stuff.......

 

[Ranger Digger]

Adding preload is a good way to tighten it up. I added an extra clutch to each side which helped out quite a bit.

 

[tenikiwon]

How you do dat?!?

 

[Ranger Digger]

Well I don't have the L/S anymore, but as a recall it went something like this...

if a friction plate = 0 and
a washer = 1 then the O.E.M L/S was something like this on each side...

1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0
3 frictions + 5 washers = 8 total

I rebuilt it with this arrangment

1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0
4 frictions + 4 washers = 8 total

This new arrangment gives the L/S an extra friction plate on each side and provides more surface area to grip on, thus giving a much tighter L/S

about 33% more grip.

 

[tenikiwon]

Cool, where do you get friction plate from? How much. It's it relatively easy to do.

 

[SWLathrop]

My L/S came from the factory with 4 friction and 4 steel plates on each side in the alternating scheme. New clutch packs kits can be bought at Ford for about $30-40

 

[Hokie]

How hard is this to do?

 

[MrShorty]

It isn't too difficult. I rebuilt mine last summer. I started a thread that has a few links to some write-ups and other good information. Dead Link Removed

 

[Harry5150]

When I replaced the diff fluid after resealing the cover, I chose not to add the friction modifier.

The LS seems to be a little tighter now. Before, the inside rear tire would slip a little on turns w/ acceleration. I guess almost 170,000 miles with do that

I may rebuild it later as well.

 

[zensius]

I think a complete set of LS rebuild is $80 from Ford Parts Network.

 

[Ranger Digger]

Originally posted by Harry5150
When I replaced the diff fluid after resealing the cover, I chose not to add the friction modifier.

The LS seems to be a little tighter now. Before, the inside rear tire would slip a little on turns w/ acceleration. I guess almost 170,000 miles with do that

I may rebuild it later as well.

Do not run with out the friction modifier unless you are using a gear oil with modifer in it, otherwise you risk blowing up the carrier.

 

[Harry5150]

Are you suggesting that the clutch packs are not slipping at all with the modifier?

 

[Ranger Digger]

No, I don't think that is possible, but it greatly increases the strain depending on the gear lube you have and with the increase strain, you get increase traction, YES, but the stock carrier is not that strong, becuase it is not a full case carrier and you are running into that area where you could shatter the carrier. Even if you don't, because you are taking it easy, you will wear the clutches out very fast and then you lose the benifits of the L/S.
I can't tell you what to do, but at least you should be informed of what could happen.

 

[Harry5150]

Thanks for the info Digger. I'll check it out.

 

[94billybad***]

will rebuilding the l/s help much off road? such as in doin so some 4-wheelin'? my friend said that it will only help turn both tires when equal pressure on both tires, such as on payvement going straight. and told me i don't need to do it cuz both my back tires leave black marks already... (127,000 miles on it, and hasn't been rebuilt..)

i like to do some wheelin', but i can't do much when only one front and one back tire spin...

 

[Ranger Digger]

It would help some. A fresh L/S is better then a worn out one, but they still have their limtations off-road. You don't have to have equal pressure on both tires to get a benefit out of it. If you did have equal pressure, then you could be running an open diff. But as soon as one wheel completely loses traction (i.e. tire comes off ground) you're L/S won't do anything.

 

[94billybad***]

well, if i am on lets say a gravel road, and turn a lil bit while givin it gas, sometimes only one tire will spin...also happens on pavement. when i am wheelin', if i am backing up something with one tire, only one tire will turn, the one that is not on the object, even though it is far from being off the ground. also, when driving up the same situation, the whatever tire is the farthest from the body, it will start spining even though it isn't real close to coming off the ground. (this is more noticable on terrain such as grass. it also happens in snow...if i get stuck in a large snowbank, sometimes only one back tire will turn even though i am pretty level. i guess what my question would be, is would it be worth spending the 80 dollars to rebuild it, or should i just save that money and purchase a locker for a couple hundred?

 

[Ranger Digger]

Save your money and get a locker. I'm running Detroit locked rear and an ARB in the front. The Detroit handles a little funny on the road, but for a good driver, it is never a problem. If you don't want to spend $500 or so for a full case locker and you only off-road lightly, buy a lunchbox locker like a power trax or something similar.

 

[94billybad***]

aight, thanx !