rear brake bleed no joy | Ford Explorer Forums

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rear brake bleed no joy

dmorris

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 22, 2007
Messages
138
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City, State
Orlando FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 xlt
got one of those check valve things, junk, so went old school, clear plastic tube on bleed nipple, crack open while wife pushes on pedal, barely a trickle, even with the power on for boost. she could barely make it move, I try it, geez its really really tough, I mean I could get some fluid out but it was way to hard.

Background on this, I just wanted to flush out the old nasty stuff, sucked out a bunch and replace with fresh before begin, started with farthest wheel.

both rear were a major pita. I am satisfied that I got a few oz thru them but not what I wanted.

Moved to the fronts, works normally, very easy to pump out several oz (replacing of course at the master).

Am I missing something here? something with the RABS maybe? Guess that would make sense, if the RABS sees the wheel is not turning then it would assume its locked and try not to let any brake fluid to the piston.
 



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Are you sure the parking brake isn't engaged?

Maybe the bleeder screw needs to be loosened more to allow the brake fluid to flow.

You may need to pull the drums and inspect the cylinders to be sure the pistons can even move, or that there isn't some mechanical issue preventing the brake shoes from moving. Seized parking brake cables can be rusted to the sheath, and a weak return spring can leave the rear brakes mostly engaged and prevent the shoes from returning back to a disengaged position, so they don't push back in on the cylinder.

You should also inspect the brake lines from the master cylinder back, for rust, leaks, damage, etc., and inspect the rear brake hose and line connections above the rear axle.
 






parking brake off.

pulled the drums nothing looked out of order(wanted to see how much wear was on the shoes before starting process).

Did not think they should have to move if just bleeding.

yes had the bleeder open enough.

Odd thing was it works perfectly on the fronts.
 






did a little more searching seems like a lot of folks have issues with the RABS from gen1. I read a lot of same deal, no fluid comes out in bleeding.

some folks say its a junked up RABS unit (full of crud) also read something about needing to bleed the unit. Some others mentioned having to have a special tool to fool the unit.

Not sure what to do now. Personally I would like to just bypass the dumb thing, but I lack exp with making up brake lines and did not find a pre built bypass kit.
 






did a little more searching seems like a lot of folks have issues with the RABS from gen1. I read a lot of same deal, no fluid comes out in bleeding.

some folks say its a junked up RABS unit (full of crud) also read something about needing to bleed the unit. Some others mentioned having to have a special tool to fool the unit.

Not sure what to do now. Personally I would like to just bypass the dumb thing, but I lack exp with making up brake lines and did not find a pre built bypass kit.

If its on your 92 you shouldnt have 4 wheel abs so no special tool or trick needed.you do have rwabs tho and they have a tendency of sticking open or closed..I found if you do manage to get some fluid thro, take it out and lock the brakes up afterwards a couple times on a dirt road.the new fluid and cycling the abs sometimes will free the abs unit, then try and rebleed.sometimes tapping on the unit even helps

They dont make a kit.you just buy a coupling and disconnect the line coming in and going out the abs unit under the drivers seat in frame rail and connect both line together with the coupling.any parts store should have the coupling on the shelf.I cant remember what size it was tho, I did it on my explorer, the ranger I got to free up and start working
 






yes only rears.

I am ok with replacing the valve, 100$ but not sure if its some china junk that will not work. I will just try what you mentioned (gotta find a dirt road ha) and see if it clears up 1st.

I don't suppose they can be rebuilt? there is a junk yard nearby, I could get a junker and mess with it.

looks like this, I don't know anything about Cardone ind or the quality of the part. I think the OEM is well over 400$.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cardone-Ind...=100011&prg=10200&rk=1&rkt=10&sd=281388083453
 






yes only rears.

I am ok with replacing the valve, 100$ but not sure if its some china junk that will not work. I will just try what you mentioned (gotta find a dirt road ha) and see if it clears up 1st.

I don't suppose they can be rebuilt? there is a junk yard nearby, I could get a junker and mess with it.

They just get old and dirty fluid with water in it makes them rust.if you get a new one it should fix it but like you know they arnt cheap. .

You can also jack it up and SAFELY put it on jack stand.start it and put it in gear, then slam on the brakes. Should work but first gens are weird when it comes to engaging abs.smacking on it wile pumping breakes with new fluid or getting abs to cycle normally works.your feel it in the pedal as soon as it works.

I honestly never tried or heard of someone taking it apart, I assume you can but if the valve is rusted there may not be anything you can do.
 






I just added a link to my prior post, what do you think about aftermarket valves?
 






I just added a link to my prior post, what do you think about aftermarket valves?

WOOOO personally I would just bypass it unless you live in a snowy or icy place..and hell you have been driving with no rears for probably awile.or try you hardest to get it to free, but who knows if it will lock back up and this time it could lock where it drags the brakes..

A coupling is like a dollar or two, its really easy to do.I even left the unit there and plugged in so no light is on.obviously you could pull the unit and bulb if you wanted.
 






Lol nevermind. .Florida sure aint icy..haha
 






I presume I have to make the coupling up? or is there a plug and play? I don't have flaring tools etc...
 






oh and I found some nice dirt roads to explore, my truck will be shocked, never seen a dirt road before (yea I am one of those that gets a SUV and never uses it off road).
 






I presume I have to make the coupling up? or is there a plug and play? I don't have flaring tools etc...

Its plug and play.let me try and find a link or thread with pics..its just a female/female coupling. .both lines that screw into the abs are male.
 






Its plug and play.let me try and find a link or thread with pics..its just a female/female coupling. .both lines that screw into the abs are male.

That would be great thanks!
 






oh and I found some nice dirt roads to explore, my truck will be shocked, never seen a dirt road before (yea I am one of those that gets a SUV and never uses it off road).

Hey not all suv have to go offroad.be safe dont be doing 90mph and locking up your brakes.haha had to say it just incase you crash and blame me;)

Hopefully that works.id try and get the wife to slam on them a couple times while you gently smack on it first.then go lock them up, biggest thing that will help is that small amount of fresh fluid.my ranger didnt work right at first but like three days later it freed itself, then I bleed them again and has been working for about a year so far.what a difference too when you get the rears working again:salute:
 



























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