Rear brakes wearing prematurely

[RedXLTlove]

It’s absolutely not the mechanical ebrake. It’s the corrosion buildup under the abutment clips that causes the pads to stick and drag.

Well corrosion is not an issue in either of my cases, as we don't get snow or much rain for that matter. I reused my retaining clips as they were in perfect shape. Also my calipers moved freely.

 

[MM07]

Just had mine checked at my 31,000 ish oil change.

My rear brakes are gone. The service advisor said it is because what @peterk9 said in post #9.

Thankfully I have a full set of PowerStop z36 coming in tomorrow.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Well corrosion is not an issue in either of my cases, as we don't get snow or much rain for that matter. I reused my retaining clips as they were in perfect shape. Also my calipers moved freely.

It’s not the calipers moving freely that you need to worry about. You don’t need snow for corrosion under the clips. The clips themselves don’t corrode.

 

[RedXLTlove]

It’s not the calipers moving freely that you need to worry about. You don’t need snow for corrosion under the clips. The clips themselves don’t corrode.

Yes you are correct about the clips, underneath them, no corrosion/rust. Old pads moved freely, calipers moved freely. Again no real issues, just an oddity that they wear so frequently. So I am just thinking out loud as to why the frequent wear in comparison to other designs.

 

[MM07]

I just replaced my rear brakes at 34k miles, the passenger side had just a bit left, however, the diver side was down to the metal.

We live in a very dry climate, so no rust issues and no dragging issues from what I can see. My wife does a lot in city driving, so I just attribute the were to that. Front brakes look great, however.

Not too bad to change out, just took time to rotate the piston back into the caliper. I spent about $170 for lifetime pads and 2 year rotors.

Do you remember the caliper torque specs? I’ve seen different specs in some videos. Just want to do it right tomorrow.

Thanks

 

[RedXLTlove]

Do you remember the caliper torque specs? I’ve seen different specs in some videos. Just want to do it right tomorrow.

Thanks

I honestly dont know, I just tightened them then gave them a half turn.

 

[MM07]

I honestly dont know, I just tightened them then gave them a half turn.

I found some specs, but not all. I did my best. Enjoying the PowerStops!

 

[Wales]

So I had to search this subject after what just happened. I signed up to the forum……

My wife has a 2017 Explorer and I took it in to dealer for oil change. They said the rear brake pads were pretty much gone. Vehicle has 44,000 miles and sees a city/ semi rural drive normally. Wife brakes a little quicker and firmer than probably most people.

the front pads show zero wear?

no metal chirping to indicate pad wear (2mm left on pads)

It used to be cars braking distribution was about 75% front and 25% rear. Reading here it sounds like that’s changed?
also, dealer pointed out that the pad size (length) was smaller on the rear vs. the front. They are!

this sounds like poor engineering? Why would you have smaller brake pads on the rear…unless your brakes less “on the rear”?

no rust, no mechanical issues at all. Makes no sense. 60 years old and never seen rear brakes wear out.

thoughts?
Wales

 

[Mbrooks420]

Your rear brakes are almost certainly dragging. Pad size in the rear almost never matches the front for the reasons you’ve already stated.

 

[Odrapnew]

Rear wearing before front is not unusual these days. I've heard it might be due to stability and traction control (even if you aren't slipping/sliding around)

My Ex rear brakes were worn by about 60k miles. Fronts are still original at over 110k miles.

Smaller rear pads is normal as well. Don't need as much braking forces in the rear due to weight shift.

 

[Wales]

Your rear brakes are almost certainly dragging. Pad size in the rear almost never matches the front for the reasons you’ve already stated.

Thanks. New rotors, pads and cleaned up calipers now installed. I never heard of this happening before. Hopefully the dragging has been repaired?

 

[peterk9]

Thanks. New rotors, pads and cleaned up calipers now installed. I never heard of this happening before. Hopefully the dragging has been repaired?

Welcome to the Forum Wales.
Perhaps this thread may be of interest to you. Ford Explorer: Are Your Rear Brakes Dragging... Most Likely Yes!

Peter

 

[Wales]

Welcome to the Forum Wales.
Perhaps this thread may be of interest to you. Ford Explorer: Are Your Rear Brakes Dragging... Most Likely Yes!

Peter

Thank you. yes I read that…..goes back to 2014! …was hoping they fixed it by now…lol

 

[Mbrooks420]

Thanks. New rotors, pads and cleaned up calipers now installed. I never heard of this happening before. Hopefully the dragging has been repaired?

It’s typically where the pads run on the brackets. They swell with rust and get stuck. Very common on these.

 

[John D Mckay]

I just replaced my rear brakes at 34k miles, the passenger side had just a bit left, however, the diver side was down to the metal.

We live in a very dry climate, so no rust issues and no dragging issues from what I can see. My wife does a lot in city driving, so I just attribute the were to that. Front brakes look great, however.

Not too bad to change out, just took time to rotate the piston back into the caliper. I spent about $170 for lifetime pads and 2 year rotors.

Hello, Same issue with my 2017 Explorer only 33k miles, rear brakes and rotors worn down, drivers side pads worn down to metal. Dealer replaced the rotors and pads, the cost for this service was, $82,48 for the pads, $164.96 for the rotors and $250 for labor. I feel violated!!! A total rip off at $497.44 for a rear brake job. This is a known problem with this vehicle, as told to me by the dealer, however it is not covered under a recall or warranty.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Hello, Same issue with my 2017 Explorer only 33k miles, rear brakes and rotors worn down, drivers side pads worn down to metal. Dealer replaced the rotors and pads, the cost for this service was, $82,48 for the pads, $164.96 for the rotors and $250 for labor. I feel violated!!! A total rip off at $497.44 for a rear brake job. This is a known problem with this vehicle, as told to me by the dealer, however it is not covered under a recall or warranty.

A vehicle manufacture can’t just eat any shortcomings with a vehicle, it’d bankrupt them. Now that you are aware of the problem, you can do preventative maintenance an the rear caliper brackets.

If you feel violated over a fairly typical dealer brake job, let’s hope you don’t get one of the big No-whammies like the PTU failure, or a bad water pump that ruins the entire motor.

If you have a PTU (AWD/4wd) get the oil changed in it.

 

[peterk9]

Hello, Same issue with my 2017 Explorer only 33k miles, rear brakes and rotors worn down, drivers side pads worn down to metal. Dealer replaced the rotors and pads, the cost for this service was, $82,48 for the pads, $164.96 for the rotors and $250 for labor. I feel violated!!! A total rip off at $497.44 for a rear brake job. This is a known problem with this vehicle, as told to me by the dealer, however it is not covered under a recall or warranty.

Welcome to the Forum John.
I never have my leased vehicles long enough to require a brake job so I can't comment on cost. The fact that the dealer mentioned that it is a "known problem" doesn't necessarily mean it is a defect.

Peter

 

[MM07]

Hello, Same issue with my 2017 Explorer only 33k miles, rear brakes and rotors worn down, drivers side pads worn down to metal. Dealer replaced the rotors and pads, the cost for this service was, $82,48 for the pads, $164.96 for the rotors and $250 for labor. I feel violated!!! A total rip off at $497.44 for a rear brake job. This is a known problem with this vehicle, as told to me by the dealer, however it is not covered under a recall or warranty.

I was in the same boat. I decided to spend $465 on powerstop rotors and pads. Then I did it myself. First brake job I did.