rear dif rebuild help | Ford Explorer Forums

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rear dif rebuild help

steelman83

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April 23, 2014
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City, State
portsmouth va
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 explorer xlt 4.0 4wd
I am going to pull my hair out trying to find a thread with good rear did rebuild instructions! Please someone help me. I know their must be one already but can't find it. I have an 03 is that needs a rebuild.
 



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Best info I found was Utube videos. Put Ford 8.8 IRS in search box and view results. My 2003 Explorer is in the shop this morning getting its 4th rear end rebuild! Good Luck!!
 






So I ended up rebuilding it myself. Got the cobra 8.8 dif from summit. Bearing and seals from advance auto. I re used the ring and pinion only because it looked to be in good shape and the ford racing 355s were on back order thru summit. Had to replace the driver side rear cv axle because it had stripped splines from the old dif locking up. Not to bad of a job, done a few mustangs before, but it still hums like it did before. Oh well, maybe that gear set wasn't in good shape after all. Drives good though
 






2003 Explorer Rebuild Number 4

The 4th rebuild on my explorer included new pinion, ring gear and all new bearings and seals. The dang thing started humming within 500 miles!! This particular rear end is possessed by some evil power and no one can come up with a reasonable answer why the thing hums and what a permanent fix is. I give up!
 






Join the hum group. I had mines done twice and I feel your pain. The first time it was the pinion bearings, it was pitted and some wear on the pinion, so a complete rebuild. Shop used Ford Racing ring and pinion. Humming came back in 11,000 miles and they warrantied it at no cost to me. 20,000 miles later I had it rebuilt again because of humming, good for 500 miles and slight humming came back, so I learned to live with the slight hum. Hums were primarily when driving (throttle) and when coasting it's almost quiet. Damn...not gonna spend any more for hum. Drives well. They said they would not put anything else other than Ford Racing. The tried Sierra parts in previous rebuilds but bad results. My understanding the humming has something to do with the fact the differential housing is aluminum and the gears are steel and the expansion temperature of the two dissimilar metals. So...we just live with it and keep humming down the highway.
 






.... My understanding the humming has something to do with the fact the differential housing is aluminum and the gears are steel and the expansion temperature of the two dissimilar metals. So...we just live with it and keep humming down the highway.

Most interesting thought! I'll take a bit of exception to it, though, as I've had 3 Explorers now, and none had any gear noise at all....perfectly quiet. So, if aluminum housings and steel gears and supports CANNOT work quietly, why did mine, batting 1000?

I suspect those involved in most of these failed rebuilds actually do not adhere to the strict instructions given by the Ford Shop Manual. Beyond that, the theory goes, FWIW, that hypoid gears, which all these units have, are pretty unique in being able to transmit lots of power for their size, and do it absolutely quietly, when properly set-up. The difference is that the teeth of hypoids "roll" over one-another, with almost no rubbing friction, almost like ball bearings as a comparison. Further, they have much more tooth area in contact at any given time than plain beveled (angled) gears do. The two key elements to success are absolutely no "play" in support bearings, and close attention to tooth contact pattern as checked by using a colored-material, usually Prussian Blue, which is applied to the tooth faces of one or the other of the gears, then rotating them by hand while maintaining drag load using hand-force. If the contact pattern is properly established, those gears WILL run quietly, so long as bearing preloads are adequate.

I say these things because I have successfully set-up some several hundred gearsets over the past 50+ years. But, rest assured, early on, I fu??ed up a number of them and learned a lot the hard way. imp
 






Most interesting thought! I'll take a bit of exception to it, though, as I've had 3 Explorers now, and none had any gear noise at all....perfectly quiet. So, if aluminum housings and steel gears and supports CANNOT work quietly, why did mine, batting 1000?

I suspect those involved in most of these failed rebuilds actually do not adhere to the strict instructions given by the Ford Shop Manual. Beyond that, the theory goes, FWIW, that hypoid gears, which all these units have, are pretty unique in being able to transmit lots of power for their size, and do it absolutely quietly, when properly set-up. The difference is that the teeth of hypoids "roll" over one-another, with almost no rubbing friction, almost like ball bearings as a comparison. Further, they have much more tooth area in contact at any given time than plain beveled (angled) gears do. The two key elements to success are absolutely no "play" in support bearings, and close attention to tooth contact pattern as checked by using a colored-material, usually Prussian Blue, which is applied to the tooth faces of one or the other of the gears, then rotating them by hand while maintaining drag load using hand-force. If the contact pattern is properly established, those gears WILL run quietly, so long as bearing preloads are adequate.

I say these things because I have successfully set-up some several hundred gearsets over the past 50+ years. But, rest assured, early on, I fu??ed up a number of them and learned a lot the hard way. imp


While possible I did f it up I followed the manual to the t. I have set up 2 different 8.8s in mustangs successfully and am a machinist by trade. I have put together much more complicated devices than a ring and pinion.

These things suck lol
 






While possible I did f it up I followed the manual to the t. I have set up 2 different 8.8s in mustangs successfully and am a machinist by trade. I have put together much more complicated devices than a ring and pinion.

These things suck lol

Sorry, I did not mean to rattle your cage, or sound combative. I tend to discourage any who lack the mechanical experience from attempting center section gear work, as I think too often they waste time and money attempting it. Often, it's nigh onto impossible to judge where a guy is "coming from", so in your case, I'm glad you spoke out. You DO have the experience, and the ability.

My apologies. imp
 






Not offended. Written words may be perceived differently. , maybe I did put something in wrong. I think if I had put new gears in it would have been perfect but they weren't available at the time. I'm planning on putting on 33s in the near future. After I do I may up the gears to 373 or 410 front and back. Maybe then the noise will go away. We shall see.
 






I tend to agree with imp. If you have set up a couple Mustang gear sets for the street and they run great, you personally can clearlt do it. For future readers, you must be meticulous. Even then, its a bit of an art. I never do my own. Oh, I'll put it together but the final tweek to get contact patchs perfect is always done by someone very skilled.

Couple last thoughts for all Ford 8.8's. If you need to rebuild anything more then the limited slip, replace everything. These diffs are very sensative and only a relativly few make no noise. On the plus side, they are strong. Having said that, look to the carrier bearings for hum. I usualy just tolerate it until I explode the thing from abuse. Then replace everyhting but the housing. If its still in good shape.
 






Yep my carrier bearing on the driver side looked like a rat had chewed on it and completely feel apart when I pulled it out
 






Yep my carrier bearing on the driver side looked like a rat had chewed on it and completely feel apart when I pulled it out

Please be good enough to let us know how things go back together. Did preload on the carrier bearings turn out close to spec., with new bearings installed? Because of their angular construction, tapered roller bearings typically vary in stacked-up height quite a bit, from one to another. imp
 






I did have to change the carrier shims to get it just right while previously in Mustang rears I was able to reuse the factory shims. I used the factory shims in the pinion but could have gotten a better contact patch if I had changed them but it was close enough. I also changed the seals and the cv axle roller bearings in the carrier. Only a slight hum compared to the way it was before.
 






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